Just a follow up, I was able to remove the harmonic balancer pulley this afternoon. I did end up doing it from the bottom and I am glad I did. It really was quite easy, but I was using a Lift. If I was in my driveway, I probably would have let the air out of the front tires to lower those nose, and done it from the top the way PL suggested.
I started by putting it up in the air and draining the coolant fully. Next I disconected both ends of the lower radiator hose and removed it, making lots of room.
Then I Removed the two bolts holding the lower half of the radiator shroud, my plan was to wiggle it out without removing the two transmission cooler hoses, but no way to squeeze it by, and I really didn’t want to mess with those connections.
I then lowered the car, unbolted the coolant overflow bottle, power steering bottle, and the upper half of the radiator shroud, just as would have been done if I was doing the job from the top.
Next, I unbolted the fan with my 3/8 drive air ratchet and pulled it out from the top, and then pull the lower fan shroud up and out the top. Also removed the belt, But could have easily got to the tensioner from the bottom with all this space opened up.
Back up in the air, I gave a few more squirts of PB blaster down the two threaded holes in the balancer, and started working the bolts in and out a few times to break up the rust. By the way, since the threads are deep inside the pulley, you can squirt them easy from the engine side of the pulley, As long as the motor is rotated into a good position.
My craftsman impact gun just barely cleared the radiator with a 19 mm deep socket in the pulley, So I busted it loose, finished pulling it out with a manual ratchet, and then threaded it back in halfway which worked out to 4 full rotations.
I set up the puller, using M8 1.25 x 85mm bolts, although I would recommend at least 90mm to get more bite. I used my 19 mm boxed ratcheting wrench to work it into the head of the crank pulley, and then the pulley began walking out with very little effort.
I then removed the puller and fully remove the crank bolt, so I could find a long metal bar slightly thinner than the threads of the bolt, but a bit longer to continue removing the Pulley.
Make sure to catch the heavy assembly when it does come free, don’t hit the radiator.
I couldn’t find the longer crank bolt I needed at Home Depot. The only M12 they had were 1.75 thread, so I went to my local commercial truck part supply house and got a M12 1.50 x 90mm (3.5 inches) which was about 3/4 inch longer than the stock bolt for $1.25.
I then put a light coating of motor oil on the crank slide surface, and gave a few light taps with my hand to seat the pulley. I fingered in the long bolt, catching about 4 threads before contacting the pulley. I then cranked it in about half an inch before backing that bolt out and inserting the factory crank bolt in its place. Don’t quote me, but I believe torque spec was 44 ft/lbs plus 90 degrees on a NEW bolt.
Other than that, it was a simple matter of re-installing the belt, lower shroud, lower hose, plastic fan, and upper shroud. Then reinstall the power steering bottle and coolant tank and refill coolant.
