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Highway shudder




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Been driving the EX for the last month basically feeling this issue every time I get it on the freeway.
The dealership we had the car at isn't willing to invest any more time into it unless Ford comes out with a TSB. I guess in a way I can't be too upset with the dealer as just throwing parts into it could potentially be a waste of time and resources. Plus having them rip apart my car constantly can't be ideal!
I've also been in contact with Ford and they're basically giving me different options.
-try a different dealer to see what they come up with
-Live with the issue(totally unacceptable!)
-wait for the issue to get worse, then go back to the dealer with the more severe problem
-wait and see if Ford comes out with a fix and to see if others are having this issue.

I'm convinced that the other 2016 EX on the dealers lot that they had us drive is also "faulty" and believe there is truly an issue here.

The dealer also has a 2017 Sport on the lot I'd like to test drive to see if it does it. Problem with that is then they'll say "oh thats a 2017! Of course it'll drive different than yours!"

If I manually shift to 5th gear while going up hill or lightly accelerating the shake goes away. It's only in that 6th gear,
85-100km/h, foot slightly into pedal, cruise or slowly speeding up through 85-100 km/h.

It'd be nice to get some answers, or have Ford give us a new car(doubtful), be nice if we had a lemon law here!

Curious to see if there has been any resolution on this one since last year...
 












My 13 Explorer Sport threw a P2098 code and doing the the same shuddering at the same speed range as the OP's. Had an O2 sensor replaced by the dealer as I have an ESP. Drove it for a few 2 days and noticed the the shuddering again and the same code popped up. Took it to the dealer and another O2 sensor replaced, took it for a drive and the same thing still happening. I am not sure if the P2098 code and the shuddering are related. Has anyone resolved their issue? Thanks
 






From what I've read on the error code it would seem that there likely is no issue with the sensor. The sensor is just indicating that there is a problem with the fuel mixture (trim level). May be too lean?

Peter
 






It could be a number of things such as vacuum leak, catalytic converter,O2 sensors, bad mass airflow sensor, bad MAP sensor, fuel delivery system issues. It all depends on many other readings that follow the code.
 






Had similar issue on my 2013 Sport ...
I'm sure it is a dtrivetrain issue .. not an engine problem ...
Check the right front axle, on mine the intermediate joint was worn out ... I replaced the complete axle shaft and now the car drives absolutely smooth ... even up to it's top speed at 200kmh (125mph (yes .. WE have the Autobahn !! ;))

If ordering an axle on rockauto be aware ! ... the aftermarket one(s) doesn't fit !!
The linkage to the two bolts on the tranny housing doesn't match at all and the intermediate bearing is mounted in the wrong way, should be vice versa ..but even then the axle can't be mounted b/c bearing's diameter is to big
Buy the OEM Motorcraft axle, it's also availible on rockauto.com.

axleshafts-vi.jpg

20180412_155647-vi.jpg

20180412_155654-vi.jpg

20180412_160212-vi.jpg
 






Had similar issue on my 2013 Sport ...
I'm sure it is a dtrivetrain issue .. not an engine problem ...
Check the right front axle, on mine the intermediate joint was worn out ... I replaced the complete axle shaft and now the car drives absolutely smooth ... even up to it's top speed at 200kmh (125mph (yes .. WE have the Autobahn !! ;))

If ordering an axle on rockauto be aware ! ... the aftermarket one(s) doesn't fit !!
The linkage to the two bolts on the tranny housing doesn't match at all and the intermediate bearing is mounted in the wrong way, should be vice versa ..but even then the axle can't be mounted b/c bearing's diameter is to big
Buy the OEM Motorcraft axle, it's also availible on rockauto.com.

axleshafts-vi.jpg

20180412_155647-vi.jpg

20180412_155654-vi.jpg

20180412_160212-vi.jpg
I hope this will solve my shuddering or shaking issue at that particular speed. Took it in for an oil change and asked the tech to look at the CV joint, because of this your post. There is a leak right out of the transmission and the shaft. It is going in on Monday to have a shaft replacement.
 






Had similar issue on my 2013 Sport ...
I'm sure it is a dtrivetrain issue .. not an engine problem ...
Check the right front axle, on mine the intermediate joint was worn out ... I replaced the complete axle shaft and now the car drives absolutely smooth ... even up to it's top speed at 200kmh (125mph (yes .. WE have the Autobahn !! ;))

If ordering an axle on rockauto be aware ! ... the aftermarket one(s) doesn't fit !!
The linkage to the two bolts on the tranny housing doesn't match at all and the intermediate bearing is mounted in the wrong way, should be vice versa ..but even then the axle can't be mounted b/c bearing's diameter is to big
Buy the OEM Motorcraft axle, it's also availible on rockauto.com.

I'm genuinely curious what is it about the word "because" that makes it so hard to spell out. I've seen people write 1500+ word mini-articles, but still use "b/c". What is up with that?
 






Well, had the axle replaced and no luck. Still shuddering at 1500 rpm and 90km/h, slightly accelerating.
 






Well, had the axle replaced and no luck. Still shuddering at 1500 rpm and 90km/h, slightly accelerating.
Have you eliminated the tires as a possible cause?

Peter
 






Have you eliminated the tires as a possible cause?

Peter
Yes, I just had brand new Michelin Defenders put on it 3-4 weeks ago.
I had the mechanic at work riding with me today and he said that it shifted too quickly into 6th gear and it feels like it was underpowered, similar to you forgetting to down shift when slowing down in a standard vehicle. Maybe the transmission needs to be reprogrammed?
I also read that it could be a low grade misfire that has not crossed the threshold to throw a code. Doing a Mode $06 scan might find it.
 






After 113,000 miles on my 2014 Sport, I've learned it's plugs, clean air filter/throttle body and use of top tier fuel. I am on my 4th set of plugs - yes, 4th. Every time they change them, that condition goes away 95%. I.E., 6th gear, from 45mph on up with slight tip in of the throttle - not enough to get it to downshift, though. It will buck just a bit. When the plugs are changed, and PROPERLY gapped; along with a clean air filter/throttle body, mine is about 95% gone. Really, if I don't focus on it, I don't even notice it once these things are completed. Make certain they are gapping the plugs correctly. If they pull them out of the box and stick them in, there is a very good chance the gap isn't quite right. I've had several mechanics tell me this.

Shumax
 






So, on the advice of the tech at my regular Ford dealer (he thinks it's the transmission), I took the Explorer to another Ford dealer that has a transmission tech. Took it out for a drive with the shop foreman at the second dealer. He drove the Explorer and acknowledged the shudder/shake from 90 to 100 km/h, in the sixth gear while cruising at 1500 rpm. He was so sure that it the ignition system failing and not the transmission when the vehicle is underload. The next day the took it out for a drive with whiled hooked up to a computer. He did an IDS and Mode 06 diagnostic and found there is no misfire and everything is good according to the computer. Also, there was no transmission codes popping up either.
He took a 2018 Sport out for a test drive and sure enough, it showed similar symptoms. His conclusion is that this is a normal characteristic drive of this vehicle.
I know there are a few people on here and on F150 forum having the same issue with their Explorers and nothing was resolved. If this is the case, either the design of this vehicle is flawed or another unknown issue propping up as this generation of vehicle is aging.
At the end of the day, I paid 145 dollars to have a tech telling me there is nothing wrong with my vehicle. To me the way that this vehicle drive right now, it is not right.
 






So, on the advice of the tech at my regular Ford dealer (he thinks it's the transmission), I took the Explorer to another Ford dealer that has a transmission tech. Took it out for a drive with the shop foreman at the second dealer. He drove the Explorer and acknowledged the shudder/shake from 90 to 100 km/h, in the sixth gear while cruising at 1500 rpm. He was so sure that it the ignition system failing and not the transmission when the vehicle is underload. The next day the took it out for a drive with whiled hooked up to a computer. He did an IDS and Mode 06 diagnostic and found there is no misfire and everything is good according to the computer. Also, there was no transmission codes popping up either.
He took a 2018 Sport out for a test drive and sure enough, it showed similar symptoms. His conclusion is that this is a normal characteristic drive of this vehicle.
I know there are a few people on here and on F150 forum having the same issue with their Explorers and nothing was resolved. If this is the case, either the design of this vehicle is flawed or another unknown issue propping up as this generation of vehicle is aging.
At the end of the day, I paid 145 dollars to have a tech telling me there is nothing wrong with my vehicle. To me the way that this vehicle drive right now, it is not right.

I hate that response from dealers. That's like saying if every car of a certain model had the wheel fall off while on the freeway, it's a characteristic of the vehicle(over exaggeration, but you get the point).

That's the response I got when I brought my old Mazda in for a steering clunk. They checked another that had it and said it's just the way it is when I know it was a loose connection in the collapsible steering shaft.

Just because there are no transmission faults showing up doesn't mean there isn't an issue. They just "can't" diagnose it without a computer telling them there's something wrong.
 






If it was a "normal characteristic" of the vehicle then I would guess that every owner should have this "shudder". Perhaps I should take mine into the dealer and complain that I don't have it.:(

Peter
 






I have done a few things that were suggest by members. I changed the plugs with new plugs and gapped them according to the manual, changed the leaking cv joint, and road force balanced the tires.
I am also smelling propane in the cabin when the temperature is colder, not sure if these two issues are related.
 






I have done a few things that were suggest by members. I changed the plugs with new plugs and gapped them according to the manual, changed the leaking cv joint, and road force balanced the tires.
I am also smelling propane in the cabin when the temperature is colder, not sure if these two issues are related.
A propane smell could be caused by a problem with PTU. In the PTU thread, the two are often related. The PTU could be your problem.

Peter
 






Had similar issue on my 2013 Sport ...
I'm sure it is a dtrivetrain issue .. not an engine problem ...
Check the right front axle, on mine the intermediate joint was worn out ... I replaced the complete axle shaft and now the car drives absolutely smooth ... even up to it's top speed at 200kmh (125mph (yes .. WE have the Autobahn !! ;))

If ordering an axle on rockauto be aware ! ... the aftermarket one(s) doesn't fit !!
The linkage to the two bolts on the tranny housing doesn't match at all and the intermediate bearing is mounted in the wrong way, should be vice versa ..but even then the axle can't be mounted b/c bearing's diameter is to big
Buy the OEM Motorcraft axle, it's also availible on rockauto.com.

2013 Sport as well with the exact same concern where it was shuddering when any gas was given (steady speed or accelerating). Found the Front Right CV axle leaking. Bought my Motorcraft replacement from Rock auto and installed it last weekend. Sadly, the new one apparently had a tear in the boot because it is leaking already. Have a warranty replacement coming from RockAuto Friday for a second replacement in as many weekends.

There are 2 main comments I want to make here.
1. The new Motorcraft axle will look different. Lineup is the same but there are subtle differences like the gap near the bearing.
1596628451335.png

2. Tsuga, I'd make sure the other axles are not leaking as well. Given you feel shudder up front make certain the driver side axle is also in good shape.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
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2013 Sport as well with the exact same concern where it was shuddering when any gas was given (steady speed or accelerating). Found the Front Right CV axle leaking. Bought my Motorcraft replacement from Rock auto and installed it last weekend. Sadly, the new one apparently had a tear in the boot because it is leaking already. Have a warranty replacement coming from RockAuto Friday for a second replacement in as many weekends.

There are 2 main comments I want to make here.
1. The new Motorcraft axle will look different. Lineup is the same but there are subtle differences like the gap near the bearing.
View attachment 319748
2. Tsuga, I'd make sure the other axles are not leaking as well. Given you feel shudder up front make certain the driver side axle is also in good shape.
Coincidentally I have been through a very similar experience this week.

Noticed grease on inside of drivers side front wheel and diagnose as split in CV boot. Take it to shop and the first shock is that you can just replace, what would be, a $50 boot. Instead you need the whole @#$@#% axle.
They call me to say they've replaced the axle but there is a noise upon acceleration from still. They are going to source a second from their supplier.
They call me to say second axle is making the same noise and are now going to go with the Ford part.

Install Ford axle and all is good, 600 Candian later... :(
 






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