Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

[Aciancio]

That's the part I'm not sure about. Because you have to turn the piston clockwise while pushing it in. It went in without to much trouble but it seems like a weird setup.

 

[613GT500]

I'm dealing with an intermittent squeal that comes and goes and I checked all of the pads (both front and rears) and plenty of life remaining, as my vehicle just passed the 30k mile mark.
I'm thinking it's a rock stuck between the front rotors and dust shield, but couldn't find it and already bent the dust shield a bit to give more room to the rotors.
Hate to bring it in, as it is no longer covered under warranty and have to pay min $160 diagnostic fee, when I'm sure it's nothing catastrophic.

 

[bigdude2468]

That's the part I'm not sure about. Because you have to turn the piston clockwise while pushing it in. It went in without to much trouble but it seems like a weird setup.

The need to turn the piston while applying force is pretty common today. You may want to check the rotor, when it comes to car parts new means never ever worked. A lot of the brake rotors at O'Reily's, Auto Zone or others are Chinese (cheap) imports. Only other thing I can think of is to switch rotors side to side and see if the grinding noise move to the passenger side.

 

[613GT500]

I'm dealing with an intermittent squeal that comes and goes and I checked all of the pads (both front and rears) and plenty of life remaining, as my vehicle just passed the 30k mile mark.
I'm thinking it's a rock stuck between the front rotors and dust shield, but couldn't find it and already bent the dust shield a bit to give more room to the rotors.
Hate to bring it in, as it is no longer covered under warranty and have to pay min $160 diagnostic fee, when I'm sure it's nothing catastrophic.

Well now I feel very foolish.
After taking all 4 corners apart today, to troubleshoot what I thought was a stuck rock behind the rotor dust shield, I found that the rear passenger side front rotor pad was done.
Inside pad had plenty of life left???

How the heck does that happen?
No glazing of the rotors.
Guide pins were well greased from the spring when I took off the winter tires.
Caliper was not seized, as I was able to turn the piston back.

 

[Donny P]

Well now I feel very foolish.
After taking all 4 corners apart today, to troubleshoot what I thought was a stuck rock behind the rotor dust shield, I found that the rear passenger side front rotor pad was done.
Inside pad had plenty of life left???

How the heck does that happen?
No glazing of the rotors.
Guide pins were well greased from the spring when I took off the winter tires.
Caliper was not seized, as I was able to turn the piston back.

Have you watched the video on the first page of this thread? I am thinking it would be beneficial to take off a little extra when grinding the caliper holder, give it a hair more breathing room for the pads to slide. Not so much that they have play and clunk though.

 

[613GT500]

Have you watched the video on the first page of this thread? I am thinking it would be beneficial to take off a little extra when grinding the caliper holder, give it a hair more breathing room for the pads to slide. Not so much that they have play and clunk though.

Thanks for the suggestion.
In my particular case, I don't think it would help much, as the clips are actually holding the pads in place and providing a nice "bounce".
I tried placing the pads without the clips and they were actually loose.

 

[Donny P]

Thanks for the suggestion.
In my particular case, I don't think it would help much, as the clips are actually holding the pads in place and providing a nice "bounce".
I tried placing the pads without the clips and they were actually loose.

Still use the clips, grinding just lets the clip settle a hair deeper, not so much the pad would rattle around, I found with mine even after cleaning up the mount, the one pad was still really tight.

 

[613GT500]

Have you watched the video on the first page of this thread? I am thinking it would be beneficial to take off a little extra when grinding the caliper holder, give it a hair more breathing room for the pads to slide. Not so much that they have play and clunk though.

Ok, I will try it this weekend, when I swap back to winter tires.

 

[JasonB13]

I saw this video right after I bought my 2014 Explorer and sure enough my rear brakes were dragging, I took everything apart cleaned it up and added the anti-seize to the required areas and been doing great so far, while I was doing it I did replace all the clips and put new boots on the slide rod

 

[Steph73]

I feel like something is dragging but was hit from behind. A lot of damage was done on my 2017 explorer 13000 dollars to be close I really don't know what to do about it. I feel like this maybe an issue with the insurance company

 

[peterk9]

I feel like something is dragging but was hit from behind. A lot of damage was done on my 2017 explorer 13000 dollars to be close I really don't know what to do about it. I feel like this maybe an issue with the insurance company

The damage is certainly an insurance issue. If your brakes were 'dragging' that is not an insurance issue.

Peter

 

[Mbrooks420]

I feel like something is dragging but was hit from behind. A lot of damage was done on my 2017 explorer 13000 dollars to be close I really don't know what to do about it. I feel like this maybe an issue with the insurance company

How could being rear ended NOT be an issue for the insurance company?

 

[Donny P]

How could being rear ended NOT be an issue for the insurance company?

Rear end collusion can affect frame alignment, fitment issues. If it was hit so hard it broke or cracked cast brake parts, and you can connect that you can try hitting your insurance. But they also will take the advice of the mechanic inspecting it, and they will not just blanket anything wrong with the vehicle and agree it was caused by the collision. Without seeing the vehicle in person, would be impossible to form a good opinion.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Any type of collision can cause frame, and alignment issues.

If it was immediate after the collision repair it’s possibly related, but if any time has passed I’d guess it’s the typical corrosion issue that plagues a fair amount of them.

 

[Hidef]

Fourth set of rear brakes worn out in 10,000 miles in my 2011 Explorer. It goes through a set of rear brakes every year. Had the last three sets put on at the dealer. Going to an independent service shop this time.

 

[KayGee]

Fourth set of rear brakes worn out in 10,000 miles in my 2011 Explorer. It goes through a set of rear brakes every year. Had the last three sets put on at the dealer. Going to an independent service shop this time.

More often than not, mechanics and people see a worn/broken part and just replace it without taking the time to understand why it wore out or broke. If you have taken the vehicle to same dealer for all brake replacements, have you asked them why the brakes keep wearing out every 10K miles or have they asked you what you are doing to wear them out every 10K miles?

Jack up rear wheels and see if they spin freely or have any drag. If they drag, service the rear brakes and check that the entire brake system is functioning properly.

If no brake drag, maybe bad master cylinder with too much rear brake bias. If this, I would think your vehicle would exhibit poor braking performance - longer stopping distances than if fronts were doing the majority of the braking.

 

[Hidef]

Yes it has been the same Ford dealer all three time and I have asked and told them the brakes should not be wearing out that quickly. There are no problems with braking on the vehicle. They replaced the calipers once. The rotors have been replaced twice. I have owned vehicles for 42 years and many of them Ford, but also every other make and have never seen any thing like this.

 

[KayGee]

Did the dealer offer any insight on why they were repeatedly wearing so quickly?

Typically, it's either a problem with the brakes/vehicle or the driver/driving style. One, or the other. Sometimes both.

 

[613GT500]

Did the dealer offer any insight on why they were repeatedly wearing so quickly?

Typically, it's either a problem with the brakes/vehicle or the driver/driving style. One, or the other. Sometimes both.

Probably never replaced the rusted caliper brackets.

 

[Hidef]

Did the dealer offer any insight on why they were repeatedly wearing so quickly?

Typically, it's either a problem with the brakes/vehicle or the driver/driving style. One, or the other. Sometimes both.

No they act like they have never heard of it before.

Like I say I have owned many vehicles including two other explorers, T-birds, Broncos, and have driven the same roads they same way for the past 42 years and have never had this problem. So I feel sure it is a problem with the brakes.