Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

[Hidef]

Probably never replaced the rusted caliper brackets.

Yep, that’s why I am going to take it somewhere else and ask them to clean the brackets, etc. and see if that helps.

 

[KayGee]

Probably never replaced the rusted caliper brackets.

I've done a lot of routine brake jobs over the years and have never replaced a caliper support bracket. Cleaned them sure, but replaced - never.

It sure seems odd that any dealer tech would replace brake pads and pad clips but NOT clean the area where the pad clips go. That is brake service 101 FFS.

 

[613GT500]

I've done a lot of routine brake jobs over the years and have never replaced a caliper support bracket. Cleaned them sure, but replaced - never.

It sure seems odd that any dealer tech would replace brake pads and pad clips but NOT clean the area where the pad clips go. That is brake service 101 FFS.

Supposedly, the excessive rusting on the rear caliper brackets are the cause.
I followed the suggestion from another member here to file down the notch where the ears of the pads sit and it seems to move a little bit more freely.

 

[KayGee]

Supposedly, the excessive rusting on the rear caliper brackets are the cause.
I followed the suggestion from another member here to file down the notch where the ears of the pads sit and it seems to move a little bit more freely.

That was the point of my comment. Cleaning/filing where the pad clips go is brake service 101. It's not a suggestion from someone on an internet forum. It isn't new and it isn't specific to explorer.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Actually it seems to be much more common on this generation than most cars.

 

[613GT500]

That was the point of my comment. Cleaning/filing where the pad clips go is brake service 101. It's not a suggestion from someone on an internet forum. It isn't new and it isn't specific to explorer.

Prior to owning an Explorer, I've never had to file anything of the sort.
Also prior to owning an Explorer, I've never had brake dragging issues, or have had to change the rear pads at 30k.

 

[KayGee]

Varies by environment and other factors, but nonetheless it is part of routine brake servicing and has been for as long as I can remember - clean caliper bracket and abutment areas as required. It's no different than proper dental care - brushing and flossing. Just because one person or a few only ever brush, doesn't negate the fact that proper dental care is brushing AND flossing. (Just a general example - if you want to argue/debate the example, have fun.)

If you guys/gals ever browse the rest of the internet, you may be amazed at the number of other vehicles that have brake issues...

7 Brake Parts Not To Be Neglected | Know Your Parts

Brake Job Tip – Cleaning Brake Caliper Brackets

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve never had to remove any rust or corrosion from any of my three second gens, and I live in the land of snow and salt.

 

[Hidef]

I’ve never had to remove any rust or corrosion from any of my three second gens, and I live in the land of snow and salt.

I used to change my own brakes until I bought my 2011 Explorer and I never cleaned or removed rust from the caliper brackets either on any vehicle I owned and never had this problem. I recently had some work done at an independent shop on our 2011 Edge and I feel that they will clean the rust and lube the rail under the clips if I ask them to. Hopefully that will help or they will be able to find out what is going on.

 

[KayGee]

I’ve never had to remove any rust or corrosion from any of my three second gens, and I live in the land of snow and salt.

Different vehicle. Different parts. Are you caliper brackets uncoated? I find it hard to believe there are many, if any, nearly 20 year old vehicles driven in now and salt that never had any rust or corrosion on the brakes, but maybe you and your vehicles are just special?

I used to change my own brakes until I bought my 2011 Explorer and I never cleaned or removed rust from the caliper brackets either on any vehicle I owned and never had this problem. I recently had some work done at an independent shop on our 2011 Edge and I feel that they will clean the rust and lube the rail under the clips if I ask them to. Hopefully that will help or they will be able to find out what is going on.

Every vehicle and part is different. I'm not sure why that is so difficult to understand. I have done many brake jobs where I just slapped pads on - didn't change brake hardware, didn't turn rotors, didn't clean mating surfaces, bleed, or do anything other than remove and replace pads - and some worked fine and lasted a long time and some didn't.

You guys are free to do you, but for others that don't know, I hope they don't come here and feel like they are getting shortchanged or getting ****ty info because people don't know any better.

Here is a technical bulletin from Raybestos - https://www.brakepartsinc.com/dam/j...B 18-11 Properly Cleaning Caliper Bracket.pdf

Here's another article that talks about removing rust, scale, corrosion and road grime and says "It is vitally important to make sure that the caliper hardware and their brackets are restored to like-new condition to prevent future issues and comebacks." - Avoiding Brake Job Comebacks - Automotive Service Professional

Failure to clean rust buildup and properly lubricate caliper brackets during brake service is proven to be a major cause of brake noise, premature wear and increased stopping distance. - Cleaning Brake Calipers


Brake Shop: Brake Hardware | MOTOR

Caliper brackets. Caliper brackets are normally constructed of ferrous material, which tends to rust in most climates. The rust may build up in the channels that locate the pads, causing the pads to bind. Caliper brackets should be removed, cleaned and inspected during a complete brake job. Remove rust and old lube from the pad lands and inspect the mating surfaces. Wear here may prevent a proper fit when the pads are installed. Any looseness may cause clunks or other noises when the brakes are applied and released.

If you’ve done your job properly, the abutment clips should fit into the caliper bracket lands without drama. Any leftover rust will prevent proper installation, and will keep the pads from installing properly. Some work with a small flat file may be necessary to properly prepare the mounting brackets for abutment clip installation.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’m well aware it’s a different vehicle, hence my previous statement that this generation of Explorer this thread is about is particularly prone to this exact issue more than most other vehicles.

I know how to properly do a brake job, I’ve done at least 100, and never had a problem with longevity.

 

[KayGee]

I’m well aware it’s a different vehicle, hence my previous statement that this generation of Explorer this thread is about is particularly prone to this exact issue more than most other vehicles.

I know how to properly do a brake job, I’ve done at least 100, and never had a problem with longevity.

If you know how to properly do a brake job, then you should be well aware of inspecting the caliper bracket for rust/corrosion and cleaning/lubing that area before applying new abutment clips.

It doesn't matter if a vehicle is more prone to it or not as it should be addressed in any proper brake job. It's not a special or unique phenomenon just because it happens to effect this vehicle more than others. I've had it happen with other Fords and GM vehicles over the years.

Just because you or someone else has done the same repair over and over and feels they can cut a corner or two and not have a problem, doesn't mean everyone else can do the same and expect the same results.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I never said I didn’t inspect them. I’ve replaced the clips, but the brackets underneath have never been rusty. You can’t fix or correct what isn’t broken.

It does matter if a vehicle is more prone to it if it and it happens BETWEEN pad changes and causes them to drag and be ruined.

I am absolutely positive my brake jobs are as quality as you think yours are.

 

[peterk9]

I just have my dealer do a brake service every 2 years which in my case works out to once every vehicle.

Peter

 

[KayGee]

I never said I didn’t inspect them. I’ve replaced the clips, but the brackets underneath have never been rusty. You can’t fix or correct what isn’t broken.

Your experience is what it is. 20 year old vehicles in a snowbelt area and the brakes are pristine. Got it. Moving on.

It does matter if a vehicle is more prone to it if it and it happens BETWEEN pad changes and causes them to drag and be ruined.

Wrong. 5g explorer maintenance schedule calls for a brake inspection at each oil change or every 12 months. There is no way a proper brake job should be compromised and completely wear out a set of pads within the duration of an oil change interval or 12 months, whichever comes first. If it is, then either the brake service wasn't performed properly, some part/s were damaged/defective, there is another issue at play, or the owner is sponge bob square pants and parks the vehicle under the sea.

I am absolutely positive my brake jobs are as quality as you think yours are.

No one is saying anything about the quality of your brake jobs or mine.

 

[Mbrooks420]

My whole point is that the brackets are defective. They corrode prematurely, likely due to being made of junk Chinese steel.

For the record parts of my brakes rot off, like the rotors. The surface the abutment plate is on is never covered in rust.

 

[Hidef]

My whole point is that the brackets are defective. They corrode prematurely, likely due to being made of junk Chinese steel.

For the record parts of my brakes rot off, like the rotors. The surface the abutment plate is on is never covered in rust.

Yes I agree there is a problem. The first time this happened, one of the rear brakes over heated. I took it to the dealer and they could not find anything wrong and said there was over half of the pad surface left. Two months later and less than 2,000 miles the brakes and rotors were completely ruined. I still have the paperwork showing this from the dealer. Then it has been every year and 10,000 to 14,000 miles the brakes and rotors are bad. I don’t think they are slowly wearing out they go fast once the problem occurs. I have had the brakes replace three years in a row at the dealer.

 

[Hidef]

Took the Explorer in today. One caliper had seized and the brakes had been hot on the other side. He said the pads were not seizing up in the rail clips and the brackets looked fine under the clips. I had him to go ahead and replace both calipers and mounting brackets. Caught it in time before the brakes ruined the rotors and did not need new rotors.

So the count is 2 sets of calipers, 4 sets of brake pads, and 2 sets of rotors since 2015 and 40,000 miles.

I hope I get more than a year out of these. I think I may take and have him check them a couple of times a year to see if the wear looks normal, but as fast as they go once it starts, I don’t know if that would help.

 

[bigdude2468]

Have read the posts and Ican't add much. Yes there is an issue with the rear brakes but as outlined the issue is easily mitigated with some minor maintenance of the bracket that holds the clips. Being a regular reader of this forum the brake issues you are having are not something I recall seeing. Brakes are pretty simple, a combination of

 

[Hidef]

I think I remeber reading at least a few others that had calipers seize and need replacing, but I will try to read back through the thread sometime. Just glad I have my vehicle back on the road for now.