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Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.

James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :
Before.jpg


2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:
33sand4inch.jpg

Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:

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Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so

Tub.jpg


Stuck on a tree just after 37s
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37s, winch bumper rebuild etc
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Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010

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Last Poser Shots
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I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.

I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:

Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)
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Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny

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1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport

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We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:

2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi
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2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift
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Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars
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It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.

I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.

IMG_2624.jpg


I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.
IMG_2956.jpg



Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.

First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.

The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.

My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.

So far, I have installed:

A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)
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A optima yellow top
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A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:
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The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top
IMG_2962.jpg


I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.

For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.

I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.

Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
 



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That's a good idea. I'll do that when I get track bar and camber set
 



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I thought photo bucket got rediculous, so the internet was broke!
I got some ranger updates
I just finished the main parts of each bumper and I made big purchase
 






I also got a set of BFG All Terrains on it. They were new, but they are about wore out now
 






9DD42031-28FB-4EE5-A13A-130DFABE21BC.jpg


Start of the front bumper

Hauling a 20'+ piece of DOM tube

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Starting on the rear bumper

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closer on the rear bumper

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I don't want to rip this one off like the last one

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And the big purchase

AF3FFE3E-193D-4F6F-837E-7992AEA9C0A8.jpg
 


















I got some cool stuff

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Did some work on the fenders
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They don’t fit awesome and the finish isn’t great. One even has a little crack in it. I hope the body shop can fix them. I am hoping to work on the other side tomorrow or Wednesday. I also had to change the starter. I changed it with a motor craft starter and I also found nos mororcraft positive and negative cable on eBay and installed them.
 






fiberglass never fits perfectly, what you did on the fender looks pretty good! I use lots of fender shims/washers to adjust the gaps.
Who's glass is that?

Very nice truck! Thanks for sharing
 






Thanks amigo. I need to get some washers and bring them up a little. I had to gut the stock fenders for ball of its brackets. It’s McNeil. Ended up being the best value (I got bedsides too) and they actually filled my order. Hannemann took my order but then never filled. I am not complaining because I read some horror stories with Hannemann.

Jaime- I actually wanted to ask you something. I think I read somewhere or you told me that you made some plastic inner fenders. I salvaged some of the stock inners but I would like to make some to cover the gap between what’s left of the stickers and the new fenders. Where did you get the plastic to create them? I am thinking like a roll of flexible black plastic that’s 1/8” thick or something?? Any ideas?
 






Hey Kirby,

Did you get the pictures I sent you via text message?
 






I did. I have been meaning to respond but I was on a work trip to Haiti. I’ll shoot you a response.
 






No problem. I know all about the travel-work thing...
 






Oh yeah inner fender plastic!! I actually buy 4'x8' sheets of plastic and keep them in my shop for projects like this.
Basically my BII ended up a little different, I simply made shields to protect the back of my lights and the door hinges...not a full fender skirt. With the wheels out so far my engine bay rarely gets wet or muddy, although I do hear water hit my headers from time to time and I SHOULD have a plastic shield for that but never got to it.

When I was in Colorado I used to buy my plastic sheets from a place called Regal plastics, they have distributors all over
Regal Plastic: Leader in Plastic Sheet, Rod & Tube Distribution

I use this black ABS plastic for everything from radio bezels to roofs for UTV's, it is so handy to have around.

You can see some of the plastic guards I made for the BII here:
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Im really considering Mcneil bedsides for my BII as I am tired of fixing the sheetmetal/rust, been driving this BII for 25 years now and I have fixed the rust like 3 times....I want to cut it all out and I wish they made a fiberglass tub I would buy it.
I am also considering the Autofab drop center hood.....but shhhhh that's a secret
 






Thanks Jaime! I think I found a place closer that has the plastic. Yours look great.

I got the other front fender on yesterday.

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I started on the rear tonight:

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I am going to be running around without a bed for a few days. I am trying to decide how to mount the bedsides. I plan to have the bed rhino lined after paint. Anyone had any thoughts? Maybe big rivets? Maybe grade 8 bolts with washers?

I also want to build some nice hooks and weld them to the stake pockets. I use the bed to haul stuff ALOT. The new besides have no stake pockets. I have to have something to hook up my dirt bike tie downs to, and ratchet straps down when I am hauling stuff. Anyone have any ideas on that?
 












E-Tracks are your friend. Tons of options for mounts, and accessories available these days.

Tracks to the bed floor would work for ratchet straps, or the removable wheel chocks stands.

E-Track bike wheel chock.jpg


For the bedsides, they make a few different types of single mounts that you can add the loop straps or just the rings too. Grade 8 bolts and fender washers should do the trick on the bedsides. They even make these in a swivel mount now.

etrack single.jpg


etrack ring tie offs.jpg
 






and they sell a cheap version of E trac at HF that works well :)
I love that stuff

Dang that 1991 bed is/was in good shape!! Looking forward to see what you come up with.
 






Thanks for the ideas fellas!

For the bedsides, I want to attach them permanently with fasteners. I know sometimes bedsides require a frame under them and are attached to the frame with dzus fasteners or something, but I use my bed a ton and will be attaching back where the spot welds attached the old sides. I realized some of the attachment points are blind in the back- so I am leaning toward large 1/2” head 1/4” shank rivets. I am currently trying to decide between stainless, aluminum or steel rivets.

For the attachment points I was looking at the e track at big r today and found some cast tie down loops that I really like so I bought them. I also found some 1/4” plates as well. I’ll shoot some pics this afternoon and share. I am having a hard time knowledge my whether to weld the plates to the bed sides or sandwich with two plates or bolt them down before the rhino!lining. I don’t want the welds to stress them and cause them to crack out.

And @410Fortune the bed is in really good shape. When I got the truck it had a fiberglass topper on it and it looked like they had never hauled anything in the bed. I meant to get it rhino lined immediately, but with the expense I never got it done. So I have definitely abused it since I got it and the fender wells and others have some dents and dings it didn’t originally have.
 



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Aluminum so they don't rust, stainless rivets unless they are super high quality will still rust

Monstaliner works good too cheaper then Rhino and you can DIY
 






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