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Engine Oil and Filters 4.0L

digifoss

Active Member
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December 8, 2018
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City, State
Grants, NM
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 Explorer XLT
I've only had my 07' XLT about 3 weeks now and it had a fresh oil and filter change right before I got it so I have a while before it's needed again. I wanted to ask what oil and filters others are using and would recommend. Previous owner used conventional oil, Castrol and Valvoline, and Motorcraft filters since it was new and changed it religiously at 3000 mile intervals. Maintenance schedule calls for 5w-30 weight oil and 5000 mile intervals on the changes. I am using full synthetic in all my other vehicles including my Turbo Diesel Suburban and my Honda motorcycle and change them at the manufacturer recommended intervals am considering the same for our new 07 Explorer. I have also read here that the oil filter is difficult to get to on the 4.0L. Would using a K&N filter with the nut on the end solve that ?
 



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I use 5W-30 Mobil-1 full synthetic & WixXP filters. Yes, the filter is tough to get to, I use an oil filter cap wrench and it makes it so much easier. The nut end on the K&N will definitely help.

I change at around 3500 miles, oil is cheap compared to a broken timing cassette in the SOHC, my local Walmart has the 5-qt jug of Mobil-1 for $23.

Takes me longer to clean up than it does to change the oil.
 






This my 2002 4.0 after 254,000 miles. Plain old Havoline oil and Motorcraft filters every 5000 miles. There may be better oil / filter combinations out there, but I'm not changing. This one just flipped 300,000 miles.

20160718_214844.jpg
 






This my 2002 4.0 after 254,000 miles. Plain old Havoline oil and Motorcraft filters every 5000 miles. There may be better oil / filter combinations out there, but I'm not changing. This one just flipped 300,000 miles.

Your engine looks really clean. Why did you have it open ? Just curious
 












Almost all engine oils now come in regular and "high mileage" flavors. Does anyone use the high miles variety, and why ? Mobil 1 for instance says vehicles with over 75000 miles on them are high mileage vehicles. I certainly don't consider my 07 XLT with 90000 miles on it a high mileage vehicle, but would I gain anything, or would I be risking anything, by using a high-mileage engine oil ? The purchase price is the same.
himiles.jpg
 












Also,I almost never put a wrench on the filter on my 2002 or 2008. I can reach up from underneath after pulling the drain plug and spin it off and back on by hand. I've never had one come loose, but once in a blue moon I'll have to put a filter wrench on it to break it loose. If I do, I use a strap type wrench from above working over the fenderwell.
 






DOMCT hit it on the head. Timing Cassettes.

I'm unfamiliar with Timing Casettes , I suppose that means it needs a timing kit - chain, guides, etc.... At 264k miles that sounds like normal wear to me. My Suburban had the tranny rebuilt at 195k miles - I didn't consider it too out of the ordinary. My 1984 F150 that I bought new had a complete engine rebuild (5.8L 4V) done at 290k miles, again I considered it normal.
 






I'm unfamiliar with Timing Casettes , I suppose that means it needs a timing kit - chain, guides, etc.... At 264k miles that sounds like normal wear to me. My Suburban had the tranny rebuilt at 195k miles - I didn't consider it too out of the ordinary. My 1984 F150 that I bought new had a complete engine rebuild (5.8L 4V) done at 290k miles, again I considered it normal.
I felt very fortunate to make it to 254K with the original guides. The real kicker with the 4.0 is that the engine has to come out to service the right side chain / guides.
 






Also,I almost never put a wrench on the filter on my 2002 or 2008. I can reach up from underneath after pulling the drain plug and spin it off and back on by hand. I've never had one come loose, but once in a blue moon I'll have to put a filter wrench on it to break it loose. If I do, I use a strap type wrench from above working over the fenderwell.
That engine is in fine shape, it’s lucky to have such a good owner.

Same here, I can reach up from underneath To put it on.

I put mine on by hand, and use the cap wrench to take it off. I tried the strap style from above and through the fender (3” body lift) and just find it easier to break it loose with the cap wrench from underneath.
 






Almost all engine oils now come in regular and "high mileage" flavors. Does anyone use the high miles variety, and why ? Mobil 1 for instance says vehicles with over 75000 miles on them are high mileage vehicles. I certainly don't consider my 07 XLT with 90000 miles on it a high mileage vehicle, but would I gain anything, or would I be risking anything, by using a high-mileage engine oil ? The purchase price is the same.
himiles.jpg
Personally, I stay away from the high mileage oils. There are additives that supposedly swell seals and detergents to loosen sludge. I have 128K on the motor.

I change my oil regularly, and don’t have any leaks that leave spots where I park. If I did, I would try to replace the leaking gasket first. If there is any sludge in the motor, I sure don’t want it loosened up so it can block an oil passage, it would most likely block the ones to the timing cassettes LOL.

Just my $0.02
 






I felt very fortunate to make it to 254K with the original guides. The real kicker with the 4.0 is that the engine has to come out to service the right side chain / guides.
This my 2002 4.0 after 254,000 miles. Plain old Havoline oil and Motorcraft filters every 5000 miles. There may be better oil / filter combinations out there, but I'm not changing. This one just flipped 300,000 miles.

20160718_214844.jpg
Perfect example of good service. My 2010 mountaineer has 75,000 miles service every 3,000 with QSUD 5w30 and Fran Ultra filter. The 4.0 requires good service. Forget Ford's B.S. Recomended
service intervals like 150,000 trans service.
 






Ive used 5w-30 high mileage synthetic in mine since I bought it at 89k miles. I wouldn't say the oil filter is at all difficult to get to. Typical of ford you will have to be careful to change it without getting oil on something, in the case of the explorer is the swaybar. I just loosen mine till oil starts coming out then leave it alone for a few min till its done, then finish unscrewing it.
 






Sometimes I crack the filter loose, but not enough to make oil run out, and then whack it with I hammer and nail right in the center of the bottom of the filter, let it drain while I drain the oil pan, then spin it off
 






Cap wrench to break loose and hand tighten for me as well. I've gotten really good at taking the filter off very straight to not let oil spill out before tipping the filter over into the drain pan. Most mess comes from oil onto the stabilizer bar then running down.

I've been using either mobil 1 or Castrol full synthetic every 3000-5000 miles and am about to hit 200k miles. Autozone usually runs deals for 5 qt and fram or stp filter for about $32.
 






The oil type/brand question is like Apple vs Android, could get you into trouble :p

All jokes aside, I use Mobile 1 5-30W with Motorcraft or Bosch filter (Walmart had a close out sale on Bosch). I usually change it around 6k miles. Seconds on filter cap removal and hand tighten the filter. Put a rag on the arm below the filter to catch the dripping oil will help reduce the mess.

I have used Pennzoil and Castrol synthetic in the past. Because I live up on the hill, my Explorer tends to burned about 1/4 of qt between each oil change. I found that Mobile 1 burned less oil than other brands. I have not try the Mobile 1 High Miles or Long Term oil. Regular Mobile 1 has been doing fine for me
 






I just purchased a reman engine 4,0L 06 Explorer. I know for the first 3000 mi use conventional oil. My question is. should I use 5w30w or straight 30w?
 









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The Ford gravity or weight spec is 5w30. Personally I would not vary from that. As far as what brand or whether to use synthetic or conventional oil is owner preferences.
 






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