The Black Pearls LM7 5.3 LS SWAP!

SO I guess the time has came early for my 5.3L LS swap on The Black Pearl!!

LET THE HATE BEGIN!!!

I have a buddy that is a drag-racer but started working for a ****ty speed shop in the area and now he is burnt out from engines and all that; He is getting into guns and i have built a few ARs. We did some talking the other weekend and we figured that one of my ARs is worth about the same as his 400-450 horse Gen3 LM7 (706 heads, Gen4 internals. Titanium valve springs, retainers and guides)

Currently the piston rings are gaped and it has a cam setup for spray but he just hadn't gotten around to get nitro setup in the car yet. This is in a late 80s Monte Carlo BTW.

This are some pictures i loaded on my SAS build thread so i will post them up here to keep it all in one place.

This is just a general picture i found on google but thats pretty much the setup i am getting.

I have some 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds that will be used (IF they fit!) that he threw in as well.

I went to the wrecking yard last weekend and picked up a 2000 tahoe fuseblock, harness, MAF and PCM for $40.65 out the door.

Started pulling it apart and removing ALL un-needed circuits, Factory fuse block, A/C, EVAP, Trans and a few other circuits.

i also added a few circuits such as a secondary ground circuit for the Taurus 2-speed fan i have installed. The fans are controlled by the PCM, the PCM sends ground to the fan relays to turn them on/off at set temps (that will be programmed into the PCM when it gets tuned).

This is what we have left:

To clean things up in the engine bay i am going to use a Corvette style fuel system. There is no fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, it in in-line on the frame rail. It also uses a return-less system incorporated into the fuel filter, with the regulator.

450 is overkill but this pump is a direct for to the explorer in-tank fuel pump according to Walbro.

This fuel filter will replace the factory Explorer fuel filter. It is a Corvette fuel filter with a built in fuel pressure regulator. With a return line back to the tank for unused fuel.

These engines require 60PSI fuel pressure and the 1gen explorers are only pushing around 30-40 PSI.

 

[KurtECV]

Picked up a few parts last night and today. Found a set of EV-1 injector connectors and a heat only HVAC box for $40 yesterday. As well as a stock replacement 24x crankshaft from a local machine shop. They cleaned it up and measured everything and i picked it up for $120.

 

[gmanpaint]

Anything I say about what to do, on someone else's rig, is merely a Suggestion.

 

[fordpickupman]

subscribing. This should be good and educational.

 

[josh40601]

@josh40601 Also i am sure it has not been mentioned much (if at all) i do have a 3 inch body lift on my rig installed from the previous owner, that has always been in the back of my mind while doing this swap.

Hopefully that will help with clearance on things

That will definitely help

 

[KurtECV]

I have been contemplating how to modify the heater box for a little more clearance.

Fiberglassing?
chop it and plastic weld?

I have seen a few guys have to cut theirs up and they lost about a 1/3 of the air flow but that isnt a big concern, a little heat is better than no heat.

I ordered some Clevite Tri-metal crank bearings from orielly, those should be in today. They were about $50 cheaper than Summit Racing.

Still cant decide on a cam yet, I think i am going to just go with stock for right now.

 

[gmanpaint]

I thought that 5.3 was smaller than the 4.0L when you measured? With the 3" BL, and the HVAC box delete plate, you still need more room at the firewall? The valve covers/heads the reason?

What did Comp Cams say when you called and asked? Did you tell them it was for off road use? Explain that power on the low to mid rpm range is preferred? They should have offered at least a couple choices.

 

[KurtECV]

Crank bearings came in early!

 

[KurtECV]

I thought that 5.3 was smaller than the 4.0L when you measured? With the 3" BL, and the HVAC box delete plate, you still need more room at the firewall? The valve covers/heads the reason?

What did Comp Cams say when you called and asked? Did you tell them it was for off road use? Explain that power on the low to mid rpm range is preferred? They should have offered at least a couple choices.

I called Summit and they recommended a towing cam. Everyone and their mother says to go with BTR (Brian Tooley Racing) and a lot of people like to use them.

Thats the measurements i have taken, with the 4.0 still in. I have seen a bunch of newer rangers with LS engines and they didnt have to chop the firewall, but i have also seen a few RBVs where the blower inlet at the firewall (the section everyone dimples from the 5.0 swap) is pretty much cut in half and the valve cover is sitting in that area.

But then again that does not take into account a body lift or the fact that i am going to cut the engine cross-member out of the frame like BKennedy did.

Also those rigs may not have wanted to push the radiator forward or go to a pusher style e-fan, which i am prepaired to do if need be.

 

[410Fortune]

I doubt you will have to modify your AC less heater box to clear the valve cover much at all with the body lift and compact 5.3
You MIGHT be able to heat it up enough to just push in a large dent, no chop cut or plasti weld required
I used a piece of tin with rivets to make up the box shape then fiberglassed it. Then when I got my TMH I had to do it again, a much larger notch.
I have AC in the BII and it flows pretty good! I probably lost 1/3 of my airflow and I have a pretty large chunk taken from the box to clear the massive headers with a small body drop
pusher fan is not nearly as efficient as a puller....... you should have room for a puller, the 5.3 is compact like the 5.0

 

[gmanpaint]

This is just me, but I would rather talk to a parts manufacturer (if possible), or a pro builder, over a distributor for specific recommendations.

I have been sold parts by a distributor that just wanted to sell because of abundant inventory. The manufacturer will go into details / specs suited for your build, way better than some desk jockey selling everything from wheel bearings to a Kitchen sink, and a tow cam is pretty generic wording, unless they gave specs and a couple choices, with reasons why.

It doesn't cost to talk to them, and any additional info, given to help you decide is helpful, right?

 

[KurtECV]

Yeah i may email comp and see what they say.

I am really thinking about pulling the 4.0 and trans. putting the trans in Bail-Out and starting on the 5.3 swap... decisions decisions.

 

[josh40601]

If you are not worried about A/C, I'd even look at the under dash heaters like you see in the old CJs and broncos. They are stupid simple, and actually flow pretty darn good. One of the other things you could do to help is relocate the coil packs. A lot of hot rodders do it to clean up the valve covers to look better, but you could do it to help with the clearance issues. I believe holley or someone makes a kit to bring them almost right above the intake manifold

 

[410Fortune]

School bus heater for you!
We used vintage air in the 1949 Ford F1 project, all stuffed under the dash and works very well for heat/defrost

 

[KurtECV]

My heat is always on defrost (i think my cable detached) so its no big deal.

Comp cams also recommended the same exact cam grind as Summit. COMP Cams: LSR™, 265LR HR12<BR>Very Strong Torque & Excellent Response

I have thought about relocating the coil packs, If it becomes a problem i will relocate them with a custom coil harness... I can build them for free at work with a few of the stock engine harness' that we have in the parts department.

 

[Spudhut]

This will be a great thread. That's why they make ice cream in many flavors...same feel, different tastes.

Look forward to the updates!

 

[Spudhut]

I am the same way. I hate body lifts but @gmanpaint has been telling me to remove the BL because my rig sits so high with the SAS but i told him my plans for the LS a few months ago and that it would be better to keep it.

Im with you...I hate them as well, but you could get a better judge of space after you install the engine/trans/TC.

I added 2" to my SAS project, Im glad I did, there are places with 1" of clearance I was happy to get, which made the job much easier!

 

[mr cribb]

 

[KurtECV]

Well i went up to STL for more of GMs "Training" and met up with a guy that had a stock LM7 camshaft that i was going to pickup for pocket change, and i almost walked off with it, but noticed one of the lobes had a pit in it it looked like the roller lifter had turned so i passed on it.

I know a lot of people will say to put an aftermarket cam in it while its out, but with two projects waiting for this motor to go in (A/T going in Bail-Out) i am just going to throw a stocker in and get it tuned....

On tuning, the GM training instructor in KC does TONS on high end swaps on hot rods and can tune the factory PCM for me... hopefully for cheap, while i am up there, now i just need to get my Service Manager to get me to a class up there.

 

[KurtECV]

So for reference. I measured the 4.0/a4ld/BW1356 and it is right About 67" thats using a precision eyeball from the crank pulley to the companion flange of the X-case.

The LS\NP435/D20 is right About 63" from the water pump snout to the mounting point of The U-bolt on the D20.

I am hoping I can use that few inches to my advantage (that's what she said) when positioning the powertain in the truck.

 

[KurtECV]

its been a few months since ive posted in here so i figured id give a little update:

This project is still in the works, but with wheeling season here i am working night and day to get the SAS on the rig done. As a reminder this project is planned for this winter 2019/2020.

BUT!! I have to go to an 8-Speed Transmission Training Class in Kansas City tomorrow, The instructor there BIG into LS swaps on almost anything with 2 or 4 wheels. I am going to bring the factory LS computer and see if he can program the ECM for me and remove the security system (keeps the injectors closed so it wont start in the event of an attempted theft), delete the EGR, rear heated oxygen sensors, and throw a stock tune on it.

Hopefully he can do it for me while i am up there for 2 days!