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How to: Another way-44 outers on the 35 TTB

Post number 35 has been selected as best answered.

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
This is good stuff. I'm paying attention. Keep it up and please post pics. This sounds like a good future mod.
 



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RS I have over 40 pictures on my web page at: http://www.mappyjack.com/Dana44.htm I'll add a few more of the GM 44 outer shaft vs. the TTB outer shaft soon.

If you need a pic of something else just let me know and I'll do what I can.
 






Just looked at your site. Now I have to clean the Drool off keyboard.
Liked the way you welded that cap also.
 






You have to weld th4e dust cap in place if you run a spring in the slip yoke.
This is an old TTB trick :) I have a spring because my style of ARB locker eliminated the C clip that retains the inner axleshaft to the diff.
However it does make it 57 thousand times easier to replace the shaft, but I would still prefer the c clip.
 






I read somewhere that the c-clip adds some strenth. I don't know. I put my threaded 44 TTB outer shaft on the drivers side in case I needed it. And went ahead and pulled the c-clip. Had a friend weld the cap in. Looking back I could have put the threaded 44 TTB shaft on the passangers side and used a bolt and washer to hold it outboard. Then put the c-clip in the carrier to retain the inner axle. I don't know I guess I'll find out.
 






My spring has worked fine for the last couple of years, even under heavy wheeling and flexing the TTB to its limits. However I have had to replace the axle seal in the differential on the pass side once due to leaking. Not a huge repair since there is no c clip its a simple proceedure.
 






I've used my spring in the 28 without welding and had good luck. Just decided on some insurance this time.
 






HappyJack, great info, thanks for sharing!!!
 






OK another question. Thought about it and what is holding the lockout in the hub? The snapring should hold the guts and then the allens hold the outer against the inner, correct?

Just wondering if you pulled on the lockout once everything was assembled?
 






There is a large wire ring that holds the lock out guts in. If you look at the pic on my site where the 2 allen head screws are used to pull the guts outboard to show that the 44 TTB outershaft is just long enough (44pic20), you will see at the bottom where 6 o'clock would be, one of the ends of the wire ring.
 












No trouble at all. Questions are great on any project and give me different ways of looking at things. They help me more than I can explain. Please ask ask if you see something. My biggest fear is to over look something and for it to break 100 miles from no where out in the desert in Utah or up on the side of a mountian in Colorado. Keep the questions comming and thanks again for the kind words.
 






Very nice. It looks like a nice clean install. I like how all of the parts are common parts that do not require any welding or speical machine work. Also it looks like something that can be done in a day with all the parts on hand.

:thumbsup:
 






The 44 TTB outers were just too tight a fit. Must be a difference in the inboard side of the GM 44 spindle VS. the TTB spindle. So I took the 44 TTB outers off and put the GM straight axle outers on. Still worried about the seal letting water/mud in so I installed the C-clip on the end of the GM outer. There is a little feed back in the steering but I'm going to try and run it that way. If I have trouble I'll remove the C-clip and try it that way. If I get mud water past the seals I'll have to see about some machine work on the inboard side of the GM spindle and put the 44 TTB outers back on. I added some updated text to the web page at: http://www.mappyjack.com/Dana44.htm
 






Pic's that were on my web site. 44 caliper mounting plate.

IM001057.JPG
 












35 TTB studs I cut to plug 2 holes in each knuckle.

IM001056.JPG
 






Holes plugged with cut studs and JB Weld.

IM001058.JPG
 









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