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Is this mechanic on crack?

got the lifter tick in my 96 ohv too,, and it has had it now for about 100,000 km, and it is not getting any worse,,
sure it's annoying when idling , but it runs very well , and i have synthetic oil in it, so i am not worried yet , ,

when i get the money i will get the delta cams rocker kit, and new lifters , and tear into it,
 



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yup he's correct. it's a lifter.
I had the same problem in my 92 Mustang. I just do 4 quarts of 10w30 and 1 quart of 20w50 and the problem goes away.

I was always told never to mix oil types like that...anyone else heard of that fix?
 






I was always told never to mix oil types like that...anyone else heard of that fix?

No, I normally use the same grade of oil with a little automatic transmission fluid in with every oil change since it has detergents in it but thats just me.
 






I was always told never to mix oil types like that...anyone else heard of that fix?

The cars got 176,000 miles and runs like a top and have been adding it like that for at least 50,000 miles with no ill effect and no lifter tick.
 






OK so today I talked to one of the service managers at the local Ford dealership..

According to him, he hasn't had to fix the tickin' sound in a 4.0 L in some time (he said about 10 years), and he looked at me wierd when I told him that I read it to be something common with the 4.0.

At any rate, he said that for him to tear off the heads and get down to the lifters and replace them all to fix the collapsing lifter would be 75.00 per hour in labor (i think he said the book told him about 8 hours) and another 65.00 per lifter. YIKES!

Another option I asked was rebuilding the engine vs. getting a new one. For Ford to rebuild the 4.0, it would run about $2500.00, versus buying a rebuilt longblock for about $1500.00.

I really want to keep the 6 cylinder, but right now I don't think it needs rebuilt...just need the collapsed lifters fixed.

Anyways, called the local NAPA store for prices...turns out, Ford only has the long blocks? That sound right?
 






The lifter and the pushrod/rocker arm assemblies are what cause it (oil pump causing it is rare)

If your really lucky, you can change just the rocker arm assembly and push rods..

Its about $200 for a set from Delta Cam..

You only have to take off the valve covers to do the work.. If it doesn't fix it then its time to replace lifters, or live with it.

our old 4.0 (before I rebuilt it) had lifter tick for over 150k miles. I used the best looking lifters from my old motor and my new to me motor (the one I was rebuilding)..

New lifters are expensive so I didn't replace them.. I just soaked them in ATF.

When I compared my old rocker arm assembly to my new ones you could see that the cups where the push rods went were very worn.. and some of the push rods were also worn way down...

Soo for < $250 (rock arm assembly + push rods + valve cover gaskets) you can try to fix the tick.. Its worth a shot if it is really anoying to you.

~Mark
 






OK so today I talked to one of the service managers at the local Ford dealership..

According to him, he hasn't had to fix the tickin' sound in a 4.0 L in some time (he said about 10 years), and he looked at me wierd when I told him that I read it to be something common with the 4.0.

At any rate, he said that for him to tear off the heads and get down to the lifters and replace them all to fix the collapsing lifter would be 75.00 per hour in labor (i think he said the book told him about 8 hours) and another 65.00 per lifter. YIKES!

Another option I asked was rebuilding the engine vs. getting a new one. For Ford to rebuild the 4.0, it would run about $2500.00, versus buying a rebuilt longblock for about $1500.00.

I really want to keep the 6 cylinder, but right now I don't think it needs rebuilt...just need the collapsed lifters fixed.

Anyways, called the local NAPA store for prices...turns out, Ford only has the long blocks? That sound right?


I'd say piss on having the mechanic do it and try it yourself! I know I wouldn't pay that much for that work anyway.
 






also if you look at auto zone for roller lifters... melling brand for 34.97 so if they were chargeing over $60 per lifter ...you bet i would do it myself and say heck with the mechanic.it's not that hard to do just takes a little time and effort ;)
 






Effort I have plenty of...it's time that I'm afraid I'm limited on. It's our own vehicle, and with a TON of kiddo's with things they need done, frankly, time is impossible..LOL

I think tomorrow I'm gonna try mixin the 10/30 with the 20/50 and see how she does..maybe that will soften it at least until I do have some time.
 






you shoud a heard my alternator i put new stater contacts on but they kept getting eaten up tick tick tick tick the occasional tick can also be described in the forums by prone stock rocker arms that develop spaces on rebuild there typically replaced with aftermarket harder ones that illiminate the clatter

changing oil helps new synth I ran a sudsy cheap oil first for vehicles with over 100k then i changed the filter and running 0~40 mobil 1 full synthetic with a shot of duralube
only have occasional clatter at cold start times im looking into new oil pump now poor volumizing and residual oil at startup even if the vehicle has run in the day may be a culprit

im getting one on the stand it will have the new rockers
 






Exhaust leak? tic tic tic

Just say'n.
 






what causes the ticking is por oiling thure the push rods they have 2 small of a hole at the tip
Hello everyone..

I'm new around here..so thanks for the cool place to hang out.

I recently purchased a 1992 4x4 Explorer with the 6 cylinder engine. It runs good, transmissions been replaced..nearly zero rust!

The problem is that it has 260,000 miles on her, and it's got a noticeable tick to it all the time. It would sound to me that it's something that could be adjusted or fixed...

However...a local mechanic told me that most of the older fords always had this noticeable tick in it and you could replace everything from the cam on up and you'd still have the tick in her.

Is that accurate? Did most of these have the clickin sound in it?

I'm going to clean it up a bit this weekend and post some pics of it..it's a great lookin ride and it's been modded a few times, but just like every used vehicle, it needs work.

Thanks!
 






thank you Glen4x4! i will stay away from FRAM from now on OMG what have I done!!!! what about bosch oil filters?
 












I agree, but my guess is that the mechanic didn't want to say that because even though the collapsed lifters are common it's not the only thing that can cause the ticking. He probably didn't want to commit to saying what it was because it is still possible the noise is caused by something else.

your problem is you need new lifters i know this for a fact and yes your mechanic is on drugs any motor can be fixed or rebuilt and therefore have no more noise he's probably some #### driving fool that really has know knowledge on older fords...call him and tell him he is a dumbass and his mechanic permits should be revoked courtesy of explorerforum.com

how do i know this you ask? because you have the OHV like me and mine has the tick and i have had it diagnosed and it is lifters>>really common problem on the OHV v6...it's tick prone syndrome...

It COULD be a weak/collapsed lifter yes, a common issue on an older pushrod 4.0
It COULD be carbon buildup
It COULD be an oil pressure issue
It COULD be a worn pushrod/rocker

James909 is correct it is not the only thing that can cause the ticking = win win
Kyle0614 is not, it can be other things rather then a collapsed lifter, TRUST ME

You can spend good $$$$ on the OHV, take the heads off, replace all of the lifters and pushrods with melling brand parts (or NOS) lifters are $$$$$$, gaskets, labor, etc and STILL have the tick
It could be a crank bearing causing a loss of oil pressure, it could be carbon deposits not allowing the crankcase oil to drain back quickly enough, it can be carbon blocking oil flow to lifter galley, it can be a worn pushrod, it CAN be many things.
Most people just live with it because the engine is running good.
To fight carbon on your next oil change add 1 quart of diesel oil and run it for 3-5000 miles, let it clean out some crap. You can also use ATF or Marvel mystery oil or just run Mobil one synthetic, all of these fluids will attack and break up carbon deposits.
Mechanical oil pressure gauge is a good idea to get an idea of what is going on in there....
 






USE MOTORCRAFT OIL FILTERS
Wix, Napa gold, K&N, Mobil one are also good filters but the Motorcraft is CHEAPER
I run mobil one or Valvoline full synthetic and motorcraft filters.
I have been inside many many 4.0L engines over the years....I have fixed the tick on several of them as well.
 






Wow, 11 year old thread!

I’ll second the use of a good oil filter and a quality synthetic oil. I use only WIX XP, Motorcraft (for Fords of course) or K&N filters, and Mobil-1 every 3500-4000 miles in all my vehicles.
 






My motor finally made it to just over 400,000 kilometers, then it ate a head gasket on the passenger side,, at that point she was too rusty to go on anyways,,
Never fixed the lifter,, motor gave up in another spot first,,,,
 






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