Completed Project TTB Terror build

[Explorer23]

I had to change a few things with the mount but I will get to that. Also during this time I wanted to get the bumpers and body work finished up. My buddy sold our tough truck since we no longer had a use for it but I told him “Even if I don’t see a penny from the sale get me back my DOM from the roll bar”

Yup, I used the roll bar to make my rear bumper. The only part that isn’t “Toyota roll bar” is the reciver and the 1.5 V brace in the middle.

I left the right tube long in this picture because I was planning a swing out tire carrier. The bumper is not attached in this picture. I was really just trying to get an idea of how far back and down it would have to go to clear the hatch with a tire carrier.

 

[Explorer23]

I moved back into the interior for a day and decided to mount my floor shifter. This is a factory broncoii unit that I cut the bend out of, rewelded and used a piece of solid rod to actuate the shifter mechanism. Later on I learned that I was missing half a gear using this shifter.

From what I could tell the OD in the original column shift was its own separate selection. On this shifter it was a half click or so on the shifter. I could be wrong but it wasn’t shifting right after triple checking the cable. I ended up just adding a notch to get all my gears.

Before:

After:

 

[Explorer23]

Next, I focused my attention back to the gas tank area. This time in the form of a skid plate. I called my gas tank install project dirty diaper, the skid plate got called project saggy britches. You’ll see why...

It’s slightly out of square but that’s partially because the mounts for it were out, and partially because I had to build it around the tank.

I added 1/8” to the bottom, front and back. The sides got 22ga. It was at this point that saggy britches became project “Tombstone”. It began to resemble the weapon in Death Race 2008 more than anything.

Plus I added some more bracing and paint.

Lastly here it is installed. It’s probably over built but if anything is going to hang this low below the frame it had better be a viable jack point. Also important to note the suspension is in full bump here so in therory the skid plate will never be lower than than this point.

Also got the hatch almost installed...

 

[Explorer23]

Next I started focusing on the body. I don’t recall exactly how much of this was permanent and how much was smoke and mirrors so body related things may start appearing and disappearing from here on out.

 

[Explorer23]

I can’t believe I don’t have more picture of the process but I moved up to the front bumper next.

Photo proof that not all my welds look like turd nuggets.

I wanted something that was prerunner inspired but also practical and fit within local laws. I decided to take some inspiration from the duff prerunner bumpers.

Up to this point I wasn’t sure how exactly I was going to build my engine cage since the poly engine mounts raised the engine and my custom body mounts lowered the body. Turns out I had just enough room to get a 1.5” tube between the intake and my skinned hood.

 

[Explorer23]

These are modified RuffStuff mirrors. The original mirrors are simply mirrors and the main hoop, I added the plate and the 2 kickers to bolt it all to the factory mirror mounts.

 

[Explorer23]

Rear bumper got mounted next.

It also appears the fiberglass was partially installed as well

Lastly, unsafe full droop photos are always fun to look at.

 

[Explorer23]

I had abandoned my swing out tire carrier at this point in favor of a drop down style. My biggest difficulty however was building something that didn’t look like a stinger. Not that I don’t like them but I’m trying to build somewhat of a replica of the rough riders explorer from the early 90s and rock crawler stingers clash with that style.

EVERYTHING I could think of turned into either a stinger, a big chopper sissy bar, or a lawn chair. Finally I figured it made the most sense to just mimic the lines of the front bumper and morph them to hold the tire...

I started with a hoop that wrapped around the tire and added to down bars to mimic the skid plate. (And yes I realize it’s terribly crooked, I was just spitballing this process).

And I added a hoop to mimic the grille bar..

It was at this point I realized I had built a tubular racing seat that hangs off my bumper. AKA the rumble seat.

 

[Explorer23]

Another random event, sold my ranger and bought this off a friend. Not sure what I’ll do with it but it runs and drives and has a frame that’s almost rusted in half. My main reason to get it was the TTB front end and running 351W. With this truck I have now had every model of TTB axle produced. The Dana 28 (utility bed ranger), 2 Dana 35s (one in each ex), 2 Dana 44s (bought 2 for this build), and now a Dana 50.

I know, I know. There were many changes in each axle including hybrid diffs etc etc, but at least getting one of every type was fun enough for me. Matter of fact I didn’t even keep the 28 out of the ranger, no use for it.

 

[Explorer23]

That’s it for today’s updates. Tomorrow’s update should bring this thread back up to speed!

 

[mounty71]

Cool build so far. Always enjoy seeing people's takes on prerunners outside of the southwest. In the pictures showing full bump in the rear with the Bronco gas tank mounted, is the rear axle bumped all the way to the frame? And do you have an idea of spring rate for the rear yet?

I have a friend with the Giant D44 conversion brackets on his Explorer and they are really nice and make it so easy to do. Where did you get your first set of brackets from?

 

[Explorer23]

Cool build so far. Always enjoy seeing people's takes on prerunners outside of the southwest. In the pictures showing full bump in the rear with the Bronco gas tank mounted, is the rear axle bumped all the way to the frame? And do you have an idea of spring rate for the rear yet?

I have a friend with the Giant D44 conversion brackets on his Explorer and they are really nice and make it so easy to do. Where did you get your first set of brackets from?

In that photo the axle is either 2 or 3 inches off the frame. I haven’t set the rear bump stops in place yet due to the sway bar mount. I feel like 2” off the frame is a little tight because that leaves about 1” between the tires and wheel wells, but at the same time I need all the rear bump travel I can get. I’m running the rear shocks at 40/60 bump/droop.

I haven’t weighed the rear yet but I’m thinking it’ll be in the 500/600 range for the springs.

The brackets were bought through a member. It wasn’t until way after I got the giant ones installed that I realized I wasn’t measuring my axle at ride height which is why my modified ones were still wrong. The lift height was also different and that messed up my rear shock travel also because when I first measured the shaft was sitting 50/50 at ride height.

 

[crashhard]

I had abandoned my swing out tire carrier at this point in favor of a drop down style. My biggest difficulty however was building something that didn’t look like a stinger. Not that I don’t like them but I’m trying to build somewhat of a replica of the rough riders explorer from the early 90s and rock crawler stingers clash with that style.

EVERYTHING I could think of turned into either a stinger, a big chopper sissy bar, or a lawn chair. Finally I figured it made the most sense to just mimic the lines of the front bumper and morph them to hold the tire...

I started with a hoop that wrapped around the tire and added to down bars to mimic the skid plate. (And yes I realize it’s terribly crooked, I was just spitballing this process).
View attachment 166922

And I added a hoop to mimic the grille bar.. View attachment 166924

It was at this point I realized I had built a tubular racing seat that hangs off my bumper. AKA the rumble seat.
View attachment 166923

More info on the rear bumper please. Im trying to get my spare mount figured out completely. Looking good on bumper mount. Looks like it will rotate down and still have usable rear door.

Are you just letting tire rest against door?
Tie down option for holding in place?
how does it look folded down and to get in rear door.


Thanks

 

[Explorer23]

I didn’t take many close ups of the tire carrier during the building process but it was pretty simple. Firstly, I fully boxed my frame with the bumper mounts, my biggest worry is hanging that much weight off the back of the frame with no support.

Then for the actual carrier I used 8 of these coilover tabs from RuffStuff.

On the tire carrier side I used some leaf spring bushings and DOM to connect it to the coilover tabs. So it is simply held to the bumper with 4 bolts. When it’s done the top 2 will probably be replaced some form of locking hitch pin. To get into the hatch, the top 2 pins get released and the carrier swings down and forms a ramp into the cargo area. I used a small rubber bump stop on the top of the hoop to keep it nice after paint.

To physically attach the tire I used one of these also available from Ruff Stuff.

The best part about it is that it ALMOST balances in the fully locked position. I have 2 different top positions since I redrilled those coilover tabs. I think it’s safer to use the position that places the tire further from the hatch though. If I have it set further away using the original hole in the bracket there’s about a 1.25” gap between the hatch and the tire. If I use the closer hole it’s 3/4”. My fear since I’m using rubber bushings is that one good hit from the rear will send the tire into the hatch.

More photos to hopefully give you a better idea of what I did.

Even though it’s balancing it probably wouldn’t hurt to tie the bumper to a cage tie in on the frame.

 

[Explorer23]

Up to this point in the build I have hardly talked about my engine, it’s installed, the gas tank is installed, battery... partially installed at this point so what gives?

I couldn’t get it running to save my life, I had thrown way too much time and money at it chasing issues to no avail. I was trying to cobble this and that together and check this and that to the point where I got frustrated. It needed someone who knows how to trouble shoot engines and more importantly cares about them. I was just trying to feed it fuel and hear it run. I went to all the automotive friends I have, put a large bounty on it for my “wiring issues” as I called it and none of my friends would show up to work on it. I ended up calling a trusted shop but there’s more on that later.

With a plan to get it running it allowed me to spend the remainder of the warm months installing things that I wouldn’t get to if I was chasing engine gremlins.

Firstly I got a basic plan for my intake in place. I may extend it later but for now this will work.

I also actually finalized the caster in the radius arms and got them painted for real this time. (This is nice and all but I still haven’t done the final alignment to see if their right )

 

[Explorer23]

I didn’t get many pictures during the process but I started installing my lexan windows at this point. I went with Optic Armor which is expensive but it is specifically designed with automotive applications in mind. From what I can tell the stuff is great. Small scratches you would get with normal handling are a non issue. The only time I saw scratches were when tools were dropped on it. If a branch whacks it that would probably leave a mark but normal wiper use on a wet winshield should be ok.

This is a much later picture but all the windows are installed.

 

[Explorer23]

Now I needed to at least get everything aftermarket in its place so when the shop does look at it I can explain my needs and they can connect whatever dots I wasn’t going to be able to get to. Probably the biggest chuck of my time was spent here on the interior.

I’m not picky about much, but if I’m going to build a vehicle comfort is EVERYTHING. Earlier in the build I added a dead pedal to brace myself with and in the process it got rid of some rust.

This wasn’t the finished product but it gives you the idea. This dead pedal sits about even with the brake pedal so it gives a nice rest/brace and doesn’t force my calf into the cage A pillar too bad.

Another feature I required was a console. With a 5pt harness on it’s hard to reach a shifter on the floor. I built my shifter pedestal as narrow as I could just so it would fit under a custom console. Originally I wanted to build this out of fiberglass but by the time I would’ve made the mold and formed it etc etc I could’ve been done. Since I had plenty of leftover lexan from the glass I decided to use that. When it is finished I bought matte black vinyl wrap to cover it and match it to the dash.

This was initial mock up to get the shape.

I used galvanized angle iron and rivnuts to attach the pieces and added a storage box.

The storage compartment has a very important job. I’m not carrying a traditional jack (more on that later) so for quick tire changes I got a harbor freight battery impact. Seems to hold a charge well and I bought a spare battery in case. The plan in the future is to add a inverter as a plan C so I can charge the batteries if need be. The charger is also kept in the tool box currently. I’ll probably add some foam to keep it from rattling around but that’ll be after it gets wrapped.

 

[Explorer23]

Just some pictures of it in the truck. Side panels on, and bolted to the cage.

 

[Explorer23]

I got the CB installed

I made one of my few impulsive decisions and bought a drift brake. It was something I’ve wanted for a long time and hey it’s not that expensive. I thought about locking up the rear in 4x4 and then powering out of it like a rally car... SO COOL!!! It wasn’t until after it was in that I realized that won’t work without an open center diff. I kept it because it’ll work in 2wd or short pulls on ice. Other casses are an option (Jeep makes one with 2wd, AWD, 4 high and low) but for now I’ll probably stick with the BW1354. I haven’t got my hands on one yet but I want to stick my cable shifter for the Tcase somewhere between the brake and shifter. I even have a knob to match the shift knob.

 

[Explorer23]

The winch sat crooked in its holder since day one and it was driving me crazy. On top of that it was a pain to use the locking hitch pin since it sat so low and close to the wheel well.

Fixed it and now it looks much cleaner.