Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[BKennedy]

And...mostly DONE!

These should support the frame, the spring hangers and the slider mounts. Still need to replace the bolts with button hex heads.

 

[Rick]

I've always hated those bolts too. The factory should have just riveted it.

 

[BKennedy]

Another option I considered was to cut off the entire hangers and weld on aftermarket units, but mine are still in fairly good condition considering the years of abuse. This will get me by for a long time, at least until I decide to run larger diameter tires.

 

[Rick]

This will get me by for a long time, at least until I decide to run larger diameter tires.

Just make sure it will still fit in the garage I have 1/2" clearance with 36s. LOL

 

[Stic-o]

Just make sure it will still fit in the garage I have 1/2" clearance with 36s. LOL

I "had" to buy a new garage door for that reason.

 

[Brian1]

Looks like a good fix!

Another option I considered was to cut off the entire hangers and weld on aftermarket units, but mine are still in fairly good condition considering the years of abuse. This will get me by for a long time, at least until I decide to run larger diameter tires.

They are not easy to remove at all. Those rivets are also holding a frame crossmember. I've played around with removing ones on a scrap frame section I have with hopes of designing a new one that would bolt on with a few better options. I got as far as cutting the rivet heads off and a few minutes with an air chisel/hammer and another big hammer and they wouldn't budge. I still haven't given up it just became less of a priority right now although I'm still kicking around a few ideas.

@Albino 94LTD has a solution for those rock catching hangers by welding on some metal for a better ramp angle

 

[BKennedy]

Part of the reason I made a low profile roof rack is it gave me about 3" clearance from the open garage door. I found out when we replaced the doors the openings are not standard, but about 4" taller than standard. The door guys asked if I wanted to lower the door height, or put a spacer along the bottom of the doors. I took the second option.

Brian. I also thought about welding a ramp onto the front of the hangers, but it would have covered the OEM tow points, and a lot of tow companies will not tow it without them. And, I have had to have it towed more than a few times...

The cross member must be above the gas tank, maybe its what the tank mounts onto. I never really looked. When I did the SAS and removed the shock/coil towers, I cut the rivet heads off with a torch and knocked them out with a punch. It went real easy. Don't think I would want to do that with the gas tank right there, welding in that area makes me nervous enough, even with a piece of scrap metal shoved between the tank and frame. Someday, I need to pull the gas tank skid plate and straighten it out. The bend in it pushed up on the tank its a gallon or two short on capacity.

 

[stephen93Eddie]

Part of the reason I made a low profile roof rack is it gave me about 3" clearance from the open garage door. I found out when we replaced the doors the openings are not standard, but about 4" taller than standard. The door guys asked if I wanted to lower the door height, or put a spacer along the bottom of the doors. I took the second option.

Brian. I also thought about welding a ramp onto the front of the hangers, but it would have covered the OEM tow points, and a lot of tow companies will not tow it without them. And, I have had to have it towed more than a few times...

The cross member must be above the gas tank, maybe its what the tank mounts onto. I never really looked. When I did the SAS and removed the shock/coil towers, I cut the rivet heads off with a torch and knocked them out with a punch. It went real easy. Don't think I would want to do that with the gas tank right there, welding in that area makes me nervous enough, even with a piece of scrap metal shoved between the tank and frame. Someday, I need to pull the gas tank skid plate and straighten it out. The bend in it pushed up on the tank its a gallon or two short on capacity.

I've seen some pictures of a guy put new aftermarket Hangers in front of the Factory ones and run Chevrolet 63/64in leaves with success.

 

[BKennedy]

I've seen some pictures of a guy put new aftermarket Hangers in front of the Factory ones and run Chevrolet 63/64in leaves with success.

If I was going to add hangers, there is no way I would leave the originals in place. I could cut the plates off at the bend below the rivets and remove the hangers, leaving the frame cross brace in place.

 

[BKennedy]

Got around to replacing the bolt with a button head. Rocks shouldn't hang up on these.

Next time I pull the leaf spring bolt I will replace the rear bolts as well, since you can see where the leaf has been slapping it on occasion.

 

[BKennedy]

I forgot I took a picture of the inside of the spring hanger where the rivets also hold the cross member in place. You can see its riveted on both sides, making it very sturdy.

Its really amazing how well the frame is holding up. Nothing but a little surface rust. Ford was not too diligent with protecting frames from the elements.

 

[BKennedy]

Went for a short drive in the back country today. Was planning going through Julian on SR-78, then taking Rodriguez canyon down to S-2 and the high desert. SR-78 was closed a few miles before the turn off to Rodriguez so I had to turn around. By the time I went back to SR-76, then to S-2 an hour had passed so I cut it short and drove around the back of Ranchita via Grapevine Canyon, then to Jasper, then to Culp Valley. Rain did a number on a short section of Jasper canyon and I came across a young kid in a older Subaru wagon who was braver than his vehicle was off-road worthy. He was high-centered with all four wheels spinning. I pulled him out before I thought to take pictures. Only took a few as it was a little chilly outside and I didn't have much time left due to the closure.

This rock area is called the slabs.

Out the window scenic shot

On the way home there was a lot of vehicle traffic on SR-78 all the way into Ramona. I was behind a long line of vehicles doing 30-40 MPH most of the way back. Some clown on a crotch rocket came up behind me so fast I thought he was going to bounce off my spare tire. He stayed 8-10 feet off the left-rear quarter for about ten miles until I realized my windows were dirty and ran the washers to clean them off. He backed off to about 25 feet after that. It was nice just to get out of town for a few hours. I should have just packed up my overnight gear and stayed out there.

 

[Rick]

Nice getaway

 

[BKennedy]

It was, but too short.

I tried an experiment with my steering. As I have mentioned before, I get quite a bit of tie rod roll because the drag link is attached with a saddle type mount to the tie rod and not mounted at the knuckle. It creates a dead spot in the steering at highway speeds, mostly when turning towards the right. Before I left, I turned the heims at the knuckles, one each way, to prevent the tie rod from rolling. I noticed the steering felt funny and it was harder to turn the wheel, but the dead spot was gone. While out in the dirt, it started to feel very sloppy. Upon inspection, the driver side heim lock nut had loosened, allowing that heim to flop back and forth. I tightened it back up, and by the time I got home it was loose again. Apparently, the heims need play for the steering to cycle properly. Eventually, I think I am going to have to cut the saddle off and make a new drag link that mounts to the passenger side knuckle. To do that correctly, I would need to get new knuckles designed for that type of mount, or modify mine. Or, get a steering kit from RuffStuff with 3/4 ton tie rods. I will have to ponder that for a while.

 

[johnny499]

Not sure if you drilled out the knuckles for the heim joints or if you used the tapered spacers.if you didn't drill them out then you should be able to use a tapered reamer from the top to do the 3/4 ball joint conversion. That is what i did to mine. I believe it is a seven degree taper, i was able to get it through snap-on. wasn't cheep but cheeper than paying someone else to do it. I believe i had found some weld in units as well, were you drill out the taped to a larger size, insert the adapter and weld it in place.

 

[BKennedy]

The steering set up is from BC Broncos. It uses their 7* tapered bolts so its already reamed from the top with a stainless steel tapered insert. I think that's the same taper as GM tie-rod ends. I could probably just order this
Y Link Steering using GM 1 Ton TRE

 

[gmanpaint]

That Ruffstuff 1 ton kit is good stuff Maynard. The Joint they include for the pitman arm helps a bunch with the extra degrees of movement.

I built a D44 for a swap, and bought that same kit for it, (along with other goodies from them).

 

[Stic-o]

The steering set up is from BC Broncos. It uses their 7* tapered bolts so its already reamed from the top with a stainless steel tapered insert. I think that's the same taper as GM tie-rod ends. I could probably just order this
Y Link Steering using GM 1 Ton TRE

This is basically what I'm running on JP

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I have the ruffstuff 1 ton kit as well.
I used ballistic fab flip inserts
Tie rod roll was an issue for me also. I used the jcr offroad bushing on the tie rod that connects the drag link to the tie rod end. That cured my dead spot
Polyurethane Bushing for 1-ton Steering - JcrOffroad

 

[Stic-o]

I have the ruffstuff 1 ton kit as well.
I used ballistic fab flip inserts
Tie rod roll was an issue for me also. I used the jcr offroad bushing on the tie rod that connects the drag link to the tie rod end. That cured my dead spot
Polyurethane Bushing for 1-ton Steering - JcrOffroad

Interesting...I have "the cure” from ruff stuff. Look kind of the same.