motorcraft slave cylinder vs local parts store/ ebay

[CreepingNet]

Good thread,

Alas, not just was my master cylinder bad (changed that 2 months ago, O'Reliey's, thus far, makes a very good master cylinder, it was fairly easy to bench bleed fully too)., but my slave has been leaking from the seals while cold and it's time to replace it. Looks just like the picture a couple pages up, I think it's a Napa part.

Right now with my wife needing some medical attention and needing her car to do work related things as well, we're getting down to the wire of getting it replaced. I have a friend with a driveway, and I have a feq Q's.

Initially I was to save for the motorcraft slave, which I'm expecting is going to cost me about $90-200, but being as urgent as this is getting, I'm considering other options. The one in it now, that has been leaking after 20,000 miles, is EXACTLY the slave pictured above (no bellows, loose spring, big blue throwout bearing assembly). I think that's a NAPA part, which I Will be avoiding. O'Reliey's has a $49.00 slave cylinder with a metal black part on it where the input and bleeder lines come out, and a blue plastic throwout bearing end on it, and it has rubber bellows over the sides. It also has the perfection clutch attachment system on it (c-clip-ish thing instead of pushing in the white ring).

Questions
1.) How good are the slave's At O'REiley's and/or Perfection Clutch? The O'Reiley's looks like the one Perfection Clutch sells (metal baseplate with the custom quick-connect system on it, bellows, and a blue end on it), but I'm not sure Perfection Clutch would really sell through O'Reley Auto Parts though. Any experience with this version?

Here's a picture I added, which came from the Perfection Clutch website, the O'Reley's cylinder looks just like that.

2.) I'm considering just changing it out myself. I'm limited to my friend's gravel driveway to work on it, and am wondering if it's possible to swap the slave without taking the transmission out from under the truck completely, or if it's safe enough to do with the truck on ramps. My only lifting device otherwise is a 2 ton Jack and a pair of 2 ton Jack stands, and I was thinking about using the 2-ton jack to act as my transmission jack. Seems simple enough.

3.) If I do go with the o-reley's slave, while the manual might give me the answer if I go back to buy it later, it has this brown paper-esque square "tied" to the front of it, and looks like it comes pre-compressed. I read another threat on this forum about someone who got, I think the Precision Clutch, and this turned out to be there so it tears off when the slave is used the first time, to make the transmission easier to install. Is this the case?

 

[Anime]

Initially I was to save for the motorcraft slave, which I'm expecting is going to cost me about $90-200, but being as urgent as this is getting, I'm considering other options. The one in it now, that has been leaking after 20,000 miles, is EXACTLY the slave pictured above (no bellows, loose spring, big blue throwout bearing assembly). I think that's a NAPA part, which I Will be avoiding. O'Reliey's has a $49.00 slave cylinder with a metal black part on it where the input and bleeder lines come out, and a blue plastic throwout bearing end on it, and it has rubber bellows over the sides. It also has the perfection clutch attachment system on it (c-clip-ish thing instead of pushing in the white ring).

Have you checked the part # on the O'Reilly's slave cylinder? The "different" attachment system looks like the ones on larger Broncos/F150's or something other than an Explorer. I've yet to see/hear of anyone fit a slave cylinder made for another model in an M5OD-equipped Explorer, and without using the matching master and line it might not be a safe thing to do.

1.) How good are the slave's At O'REiley's and/or Perfection Clutch? The O'Reiley's looks like the one Perfection Clutch sells (metal baseplate with the custom quick-connect system on it, bellows, and a blue end on it), but I'm not sure Perfection Clutch would really sell through O'Reley Auto Parts though. Any experience with this version?

Here's a picture I added, which came from the Perfection Clutch website, the O'Reley's cylinder looks just like that.

No idea how good they are, but if they were better than the Motorcraft part, there would be someone on here telling us about it. Hasn't happened yet.

The black bellows is just a cover for the spring, and the new, updated Motorcraft part (now listed for 1998+ Explorers, but it's what you get when asking for one for a 93-97 unless that dealer has a old stock original part still sitting around) has the same cover, it doesn't really do anything.

2.) I'm considering just changing it out myself. I'm limited to my friend's gravel driveway to work on it, and am wondering if it's possible to swap the slave without taking the transmission out from under the truck completely, or if it's safe enough to do with the truck on ramps. My only lifting device otherwise is a 2 ton Jack and a pair of 2 ton Jack stands, and I was thinking about using the 2-ton jack to act as my transmission jack. Seems simple enough.

Gravel isn't the best surface to be working on, but if you get a sheet of plywood under there you might be ok. Biggest safety issue is stability of the vehicle on the ramps. DO NOT USE JACKSTANDS ON GRAVEL, DIRT, ETC. Even (metal) ramps are risky as they can shift on gravel and dig in/sink - not good when you are under the vehicle holding the transmission pulling it out. Plastic ramps like Rhino Ramps and similar designs with a flat base might be ok, even better if you put some wood under there. Make sure the vehicle is level and once it's up on ramps, give it a few good shakes to settle and make sure it's not going anywhere. Be sure and set the parking brake AND chock the wheels, even on ramps.

You'll need to put ramps under the front AND back tires to get enough height (on a stock height vehicle, at least), or you can get some 2x8/2x10 lumber and cut it up into 1-2ft lengths and nail those together to stick under the back tires to raise the back end up to match the front.

3.) If I do go with the o-reley's slave, while the manual might give me the answer if I go back to buy it later, it has this brown paper-esque square "tied" to the front of it, and looks like it comes pre-compressed. I read another threat on this forum about someone who got, I think the Precision Clutch, and this turned out to be there so it tears off when the slave is used the first time, to make the transmission easier to install. Is this the case?

I have no idea what the brown paper square is, but I'd guess it's just packing material, either to protect the throwout bearing, or perhaps it's the backside of some safety/warning sticker. If it just tears off, it sounds like packing made to be removed before installation.

I'd still suggest the Motorcraft part, but if you want to give it a go and the parts you're referring to are sold as for your model year Explorer, you might try them out and report back.

 

[gbop]

I did install the new wagner part #sc142714 . When i called wagner tech line to check why the new updated part number, i was told that ford motor co. Updated their slave cylinder. Wag had no explaination why ford updated it (for the umteenth time), they just followed suit. I looked through the hole in the bell housing (large rectangular rubber plug) where i suppose the yoke for clutch bearing used to be. To me it looked like the bearing was touching the pressure plate(clutch installed-finished product). It wasn't, but it's close.

 

[gbop]

By the way the Wag unit was to replace one from O'Reilly's a PTQ part number(Power Torque.

 

[mr cribb]

I wouldn't chance using a parts store replacement. There's the issue I've seen time and time again. 20 x.. miles and the slave leaks.

I put 32-33k miles on my factory replacement. No leaks no fuss.

I know it's expensive to buy up front but I feel it's worth not having to do multiple times and seeing as it isn't easy to get to, that makes me willing to pony up the extra dollars for peace of mind.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Slave Cylinder

I looked at the Perfection Clutch ratings on the Advance Auto Parts web site. Perfection Clutch got very poor ratings.

I'm losing clutch fluid. I would refill it and bleed it and after a couple of days of cold weather, the reservoir would be empty again, and clutch would not disengage. I'm still checking, but I'm sure it's the slave cylinder that is leaking.
Pulling the tranny out is beyond my ability, so I'm going to bring her to a trusted transmission shop.

My transmission was overhauleld about 90,000 miles ago by another shop and I don't know what brand of slave cylinder they put in. Following the thread here, I'm going to specify that they put in a Motorcraft slave cylinder (unless they know of something that is really better), even if they have to order it. Fortunately, I can trust this shop. I've dealt with the owner before and he was recommended to me by a mechanic that our family dealt with over many years.

Thanks, guys, for sharing all your experiences.

Bwana Bob

 

[mr cribb]

Price by you buying it beforehand. Dealer wants $240

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/1992/FORD/Explorer/XLT/?siteid=318&vehicleid=50188&section=CLUTCH

 

[Carguy3J]

I bought one form a local dealer for under $100, but they were giving me a special deal. Tasca Ford sells the oem motorcraft slave, on ebay, for $110.

Also, for a clutch, I plan on upgrading my '93 Ranger 4.0L-OHV to the later 10.125" disc and pressure plate. ('93 "stock" clutch application is 10") I plan to use AMS/LUK part# 07-139 (about $160 at rock auto). This part# should bolt up to the older flywheel. Along with having a 1/8' bigger disc, the pressure plate is an oem style design. It "adjusts" itself, to maintain consistent pedal effort/clamp force/ and engagement height at the pedal as the friction disc wears over its lifespan.

 

[mr cribb]

Interestingly enough, google found my old thread, because I'm in the market for another motorcraft slave cylinder.

 

[RangerX]

So it lasted about 7.5 years? Any idea how many miles in that time?

 

[mr cribb]

So it lasted about 7.5 years? Any idea how many miles in that time?

Unfortunately no, I crushed the truck in 2014 when I bought the 93 sport, which I sold in June of 16.

When I crushed the 2wd one (the one that led me here to this forum and started this thread), I had about 35k really hard miles. I was trying to salvage my marriage at the time and was told I didn’t need two Explorers.

No, my in the market comment is related to my newest explorer.

 

[Bwana Bob]

I had my transmission overhauled at 150,000 miles, but after about a year, it started getting hard to shift into first gear. A few years later the slave cylinder failed completely. It was leaking. I had a reputable shop replace the slave cylinder an clutch 4 years ago and it's been shifting like new ever since. The brand that they used was Centric Clutch. Don't forget to replace that plastic bushing in the top of the transmission where the shift lever sits. Mine had disintegrated.
Now, if I can find a replacement fuel tank for my 92 XLT...

Bob

 

[Josh P]

I was trying to salvage my marriage at the time and was told I didn’t need two Explorers.

 

[mr cribb]

So I found a part number for the OEM Ford slave cylinder. It's listed to fit 1992-2011 Ranger, Explorer, F150.

Genuine OEM Ford Slave Cylinder 9L5Z-7A508-A it retails between $50-$70 without any other discounts you may find. The higher prices included shipping, no tax as of today 2/7/19.

 

[RangerX]

Damn, that seems pretty cheap! Can you share the link?

 

[mr cribb]

Damn, that seems pretty cheap! Can you share the link?

Yup, no problem. Here’s eBay, but feel free to input this part number into wherever you get the best deal.
Genuine OEM Ford Slave Cylinder 9L5Z7A508A | eBay