1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Fill neck hose replace- | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Fill neck hose replace-




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Oh... I see...both of my '97s have the long ones on the LH head
 






Primary tensioner & guide, balance shaft T & G and LH secondary guide assy arrived today.
 






checking my front hydraulic tensioner for a bad spring or wear, I used a 27 deep well and I couldn't get it to go all the way down to the hex fitting? I read that another member used a 1 1/16 in wrench for his. so I'm trying that of course it's too tight and began to turn the corner. soaked the tensioner down good with pb blaster and gonna let it penetrate over night until I can get back to it in the morning..............any tips on getting it out other than soaking and trying the 1 1/16th, or do I need a deeper 27mm??
I used a 1 1/16" boxed end wrench. Held it on the tensioner hex tight and square. Then I used a 20 oz hammer, hit the wrench to "shock" it in the clockwise tightening direction (added-then broke it aloose) and backed it right out easily.
 












So Doc, You were able to get your wrench in behind the TC gear and chain like so?
foe03.jpg
 






So Doc, You were able to get your wrench in behind the TC gear and chain like so?
View attachment 167854
Yes, I was. Removing the bolt afterwards is difficult, but with the traction side guide in pieces, that helps a bit. Getting back into the new assembly is more difficult yet, but doable.

If you read anywhere that said bolt can be removed through the holes in the jackshaft sprocket, that is not true... the flange on the bolt head is much too large to permit that.
 






The first day that I started working on mine I used my new wrench to remove the fan assy. It is 32mm on one end and 36mm on the other.Here is a picture.
fanwrench.JPG
 






Here is a picture of the '97 white/graphite Explorer that all the fuss is over. Mid Fall me and the Wife purchased it for $400- . When we went to look at it we started it and it had the "notorious" chain rattle. It would sit there and idle and the tires were nearIy new . I put them on the blue '97 that the Wife drives 400 plus miles a week. The wheels on the white one are off of the Mountaineer and have graphite inserts that match the white/graphite Explorer. The tires on those wheels are just over a year old and might have 5000 miles on them. The odometer is showing ~130K miles and may not have been smoked in.There are some new front end parts on it and it hasn't seen any salt. It has a CD changer in the console.
97wg01.JPG

The pond/lake has receded around the white '97. The Wife was outside today with her new camera that she got for Christmas. Thanks for the pics Hun.
Her old '94 is in the foreground. When she bought it, it ha 81K on it. Now it has 330K.
 






Friday before dark some of my parts arrived. I still need to order an 00M12 kit, some gaskets and other misc parts.
g&t02.JPG
 






If you read anywhere that said bolt can be removed through the holes in the jackshaft sprocket, that is not true... the flange on the bolt head is much too large to permit that.
After a whole lot of reading today during the "rainout" I found something related to this regarding the bolt head. I think the person was saying that they stuck just the bolt head in the back side of the sprocket hole so that the bolt would clear the old guide assembly while it was being slid out and the same as the new one was being slid in. However I am thinking of a little modification fix for this but I won't be sure if it will work until I get the old guide assy and bolt out. More later...
 






Today with the LH cam disengaged before I started rotating the crank by hand to watch what the passenger head cam was doing in relation to the crank, the crank shaft was at TDC and the cam was in its correct position. The balance shaft was 90 degrees from the marks that it should be at. At first I thought that maybe the balance shaft chain had jumped a tooth or two. I rotated the crank possibly six times and when I stopped at TDC the cam was in its correct position and the balance shaft marks were lined up as well. After thinking about it for a bit the crank was making two revolutions to the cam one which is correct and since the balance shaft marks now line up it must be a multiple of the crank revolutions. At this point in the evening my mind is beyond math functions but I'm sure that one of you guys out there that have done this would say "Oh yeah for every rotation of the crank the balance shaft moves...blah blah blah this happens etc etc" . Enlighten me please.
 






You nailed it I think the balance shaft will rotate 8 times be for it will line up
 






Thanks donalds for the answer. Before dark when my math brain was still awake I was thinking something like that.
 






I've been reading about and looking at pictures of the oil pan and even though the bottom pan is removable with the engine in, it looks as though the girdle or upper pan piece can not be taken off without either removing the engine or transmission. Something about 4 bolts not being accessible at the rear of the girdle.
The balance shaft tensioner is broken and needs replaced. I read where someone successfully replaced part of it from above. It would have to be done this way or remove the balance shaft chain entirely to disengage its function.
Here is a good write up R&Ring a 4.0 SOHC Oil Pan
Oil pan change - 1997 SOHC
 






After pondering the balance shaft tensioner situation, I've elected to remove the chain that drives it. Since I don't want to create more issues by using a grinder or cut off tool that would make very small pieces of metal that would circulate with the oil and ultimately bond to the bearings in the engine and lead to eventual failure, I am going to use a bolt cutter to cut the chain. But first I'm going to clamp ViseGrips to the chain so it won't fall down into the oil pan. I have measured the distance from the AC condenser to the chain which is 14"~ and that is enough room to use 12" long bolt cutters from Harbor Freight that cost $8.99 + tax. Even though these are not the best available it doesn't look like that particular chain is very thick. Put a piece of cardboard against the condenser to protect it.
12 in. Bolt Cutters
Also after cleaning the oil pan and girdle, after the pan is back on I'm going to attach a strong magnet with JB WELD (harvested from a dead microwave oven) to the outside bottom of the pan to collect any leftover metal pieces from the destroyed tensioners that I may not be able to wash out so that they don't get around the oil pump pick up screen and obstruct the oil flow. This might not be necessary but just a precaution.
 






Some people use a screwdriver to pop the links and remove the chain may be worth a trying
 






Thanks @donalds and I just might try that. I just don't want to damage the teeth on the sprockets if I were to later pull the engine and put a balance chain and tensioner back in it.
While I'm thanking people, I want to thank
@2000Streetod for his write up from 2010 and @CDW6212R from his in 2006 and many others (too many to list) for their write ups and additions to this subject. Also I see a pattern here, it comes in waves. I also want to thank Doc, @drdoom for his additions and input to this thread. He is currently experiencing almost identical damage to his '97 4.0 SOHC 4x4. I'm not sure if his has a broken balance shaft tensioner or not. He does have a 4x4 so dealing with the oil pan may be more of a challenge that my 2WD model.
If any of you Forum users that have contributed in the past and have any positive input feel free to speak up. Many are following along, there are over 1200 views so far. Later Gang and thanks again !
 






Lots of people delete the balance shaft chain even with 4 wheel drive with no ill effects
 



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AllMyExes I would like to thank you too, there a certain comfort and reassurance in knowing a fellow member is engaged in the same endeavor. And having the exact same truck, well I figured we could join forces so to speak.
I know I kind of hijacked in here, and I appreciate you letting me tag along.
Best wishes,
Doc
 






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