New style A/C Freon cans with self seal valve

[ROBinGa]

I noticed the A/C wasn’t blowing as cold as it should in the 03 4.6 so went to grab my trusty recharge hose and a new can of R-134 to top it off. I spent about 30 minutes jacking with that new can of freon and could not figure why the AC wasn’t pulling anything in and my gauge wasn’t moving. Actually I think that taking the connector on and off several times and opening and closing the control valve probably let a lot of freon I did have escape. By the time I gave up the gauge was showing less than when I started.

Then I researched YouTube and found this video describing new freon cans that came out in 2018 linked below. I found the adapter at HomeDepot for about $4 and also can of freon at HomeDepot for just under $5. With the plastic adapter I was able to add 2 cans of freon with my old hose and now A/C is blowing nice and chilly. Yes I know I really need to use a proper manifold gauge set to pull vacuum and test Hi pressure side but I don’t have that gear.

But the point of this is to maybe let others know if you haven’t had to mess with adding freon since 2018 yet that the new cans you buy have been redesigned to have a self seal valve and won’t work with older equipment that pierced a seal on older cans.

 

[TechGuru]

I only buy DuPont SUVA cans and have not seen this...yet?

 

[firefly1246]

Thanks for the info. FYI, just to make sure you get the language correct so you don’t confuse anyone.

Long story short Refrigerant is the generic name while Freon is a specific type of Refrigerant that is not used in a 3rd gen explorer.

Freon is the brand name for the older Refrigerant R-12 (as well as some other refrigerants). R-12 is typically used in vehicles ~1993 and older.
Refrigerant R-134A is used in newer vehicles. Typically anything newer than a 1993. Our 3rd gen explorers use R-134A.

R-12 is slightly more efficient than R-134A so doesn’t require as big of an A/C system, but has been found to be harmful to the Ozone Layer. R-12 requires a licensed A/C technician to use while R-134A a DIY’er can do.

Sorry for the rant, hit one of my car pet peeves.

On another note, I highly recommend investing in a set of manifold gages and a vacuum pump. Doing automotive A/C work is so much cheaper doing yourself, tons of great resources on the web and YouTube. One thing with A/C systems is if you have to top off the system with refrigerant then you have a leak and depending on how bad it is will determine how soon you will have to put more in. So I always recommend putting UV dye in the system when you have to put more refrigerant in. This makes it super easy to find your leak and fix it the next time it leaks out. I strongly recommend against any stop leak.

-Scott

 

[TechGuru]

Thanks for the info. FYI, just to make sure you get the language correct so you don’t confuse anyone.

Long story short Refrigerant is the generic name while Freon is a specific type of Refrigerant that is not used in a 3rd gen explorer.

Freon is the brand name for the older Refrigerant R-12 (as well as some other refrigerants). R-12 is typically used in vehicles ~1993 and older.
Refrigerant R-134A is used in newer vehicles. Typically anything newer than a 1993. Our 3rd gen explorers use R-134A.

R-12 is slightly more efficient than R-134A so doesn’t require as big of an A/C system, but has been found to be harmful to the Ozone Layer. R-12 requires a licensed A/C technician to use while R-134A a DIY’er can do.

Sorry for the rant, hit one of my car pet peeves.

On another note, I highly recommend investing in a set of manifold gages and a vacuum pump. Doing automotive A/C work is so much cheaper doing yourself, tons of great resources on the web and YouTube. One thing with A/C systems is if you have to top off the system with refrigerant then you have a leak and depending on how bad it is will determine how soon you will have to put more in. So I always recommend putting UV dye in the system when you have to put more refrigerant in. This makes it super easy to find your leak and fix it the next time it leaks out. I strongly recommend against any stop leak.

-Scott

Ya, DuPont owns the names FREON and SUVA. FREON is R22 & R12 and SUVA is R410a & R134a so in my case I can say SUVA because I actually use SUVA...

Can you offer any input to my old thread here: Odd A/C Problem

Spring/Summer is nearing...

 

[MAS Tequila]

Look for a vacuum leak between the vac ball and the firewall.

The default is defrost vents, so when the vac falls it sends the air to the defrost vents.

Then when the vac is back in range, it blows colder than hell.

Mine is doing that again, now.

 

[Number4]

This is something California started years ago. Those cans typically have a core charge too.

Probably state dependent. Haven’t seen them here in Georgia.

 

[ROBinGa]

That’s where I’ve bought the ones I’ve just used - near Cumming, Ga

 

[hertfordnc]

I just had almost the exact experience as the OP. My trusty can punch was not working. But i figure out if i just screwed it in a little the R134 would flow

I'll go get the right kind eventually.

Echoing what was said above, a cheap set of gauges and a decent vac pump will cost a bit over $100. It will pay for itself the first time you don't go to a shop for AC work.