Correct set of wheel Bearings?

[Alex8706]

I'm going to be switching out my front wheel bearings. Both inner and outer on both tires. I want to get Timken's and as far as I can tell, mainly gathering my information from rock auto, Timken's set 37 is what I need all around for my 92 sport 4x4 with manual hubs. Can anyone else confirm this?

Also, can anyone recommend a good set of rotors with the racers already installed?

Thank you!

 

[damasodeljr]

I just replaced mine along with other parts a few days ago. didnt get timkens as i couldnt find them locally, used instead National A37 i believe, inner and outer where the same, bearings came with races. No issues so far and im running 35" tires

 

[Alex8706]

Thank you for your reply! I've looked up the National's and the specs do match. So I'll be ordering the Timken's. I know there is a well written guide on here for replacing the bearings but I am curious if you had any tips, tricks or solutions for and problems you ran into.

 

[Blue m&m]

It’s pretty straight forward. I always order new seals and use a small block of wood and a mallet to drive them in evenly.

 

[damasodeljr]

What @Blue m&m said, dont forget the wheel seals, other then than that its pretty straight foward. ive taken mine on and off a few times now (have a 93 ranger with auto hubs) and manual hubs are the easiest. Follow the write up in the how to section and you shouldnt have any issues.

 

[Alex8706]

Yeah seals are on my list also (Timken 4250). Im not to worried about getting the seals in correctly. Mainly just getting the spindle back on correctly. I know about the 20foot/20inch torque rule but I always second guess myself in situations like that.

Also, do you guys just use standard wheel bearing grease? I have red synthetic grease that I used for my driveshaft u-joints when I replaced them but that stuff is questionable... I notice red liquid drips on my grease gun during warm days (80's) which makes me think this stuff is garbage since it's rated for much higher temperatures. But the u joints have held up well and are full of grease.

 

[imp]

Yeah seals are on my list also (Timken 4250). Im not to worried about getting the seals in correctly. Mainly just getting the spindle back on correctly. I know about the 20foot/20inch torque rule but I always second guess myself in situations like that.

Also, do you guys just use standard wheel bearing grease? I have red synthetic grease that I used for my driveshaft u-joints when I replaced them but that stuff is questionable... I notice red liquid drips on my grease gun during warm days (80's) which makes me think this stuff is garbage since it's rated for much higher temperatures. But the u joints have held up well and are full of grease.

@Alex8706
The thread has me confused. We are talking about 4X4s, yes? Did the Gen I Explorers have solid front axles? That would explain my misunderstanding: later design used independently sprung axles, and the bearings are serviced only as a sealed pair, crimped together and non-separable.

I have in the past many times done 4X4 truck drive axles with separately replaceable bearings.
imp

 

[Alex8706]

Solid in the rear independent in the front. I'm not sure about the solid axle but the front independent axle bearings aren't sealed in the way I believe you are talking about. You have to pack it and seal it up yourself. The bearings come to you like this:

I'll be following Glacier's guide found here:

My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary

Which I believe is the same guide damasodeljr is refering to.

 

[Blue m&m]

I use standard red bearing grease. Mine eats breaks pads, so I’ve never had an issue with grease lifecycle. I vote another strong second for manual hubs. Looks like lots of folks pick up a set at the local pick and pull. Whatever you do, don’t pack your hubs with grease.

Over the past 18 years, I’ve have yet to get rotors where I actually needed to install the races.

 

[imp]

Solid in the rear independent in the front. I'm not sure about the solid axle but the front independent axle bearings aren't sealed in the way I believe you are talking about. You have to pack it and seal it up yourself. The bearings come to you like this:

View attachment 168310

I'll be following Glacier's guide found here:

My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary

Which I believe is the same guide damasodeljr is refering to.

@Alex8706
Right, just like the individual bearings used on front spindles in the old days, where they were held within either a brake drum, or rotor. The Gen II and III Explorers look like this:

The two bearings and their outer races are contained within the hub, which bolts to the steering knuckle. The hub is roll-crimped over the bearing, and the bearings can only be removed by slicing the hub open. At least on all the bearing makes I've seen.

So you say the front IS an independent suspension, no solid axle tube? imp

 

[Alex8706]

Man I am really confused by this now lol. So I just snapped a pic for you. To my knowledge I should be able to change out the bearings pretty easily without slicing anything. I am definitely not a machanic and only work on my own vehicles but maybe there is something I am missing.

Dirty I know.

 

[imp]

Man I am really confused by this now lol. So I just snapped a pic for you. To my knowledge I should be able to change out the bearings pretty easily without slicing anything. I am definitely not a machanic and only work on my own vehicles but maybe there is something I am missing.
Dirty I know.

@Alex8706
OK! Now I get it! They used the "Twin-I Beam" suspension as used in the 4X4 trucks! This diagram shows you all the parts. Clearly, the bearings are seen as they are separated from the brake rotor. So, yes, there is no problem at all replacing individual bearings if one is bad. It is never recommended that an old used outer race be used with a new cone and roller assembly, or vice versa. Sorry I created all the confusion. I just had no idea the twin beams had been used in any Explorer. imp

 

[Blue m&m]

Man I am really confused by this now lol. So I just snapped a pic for you. To my knowledge I should be able to change out the bearings pretty easily without slicing anything. I am definitely not a machanic and only work on my own vehicles but maybe there is something I am missing.

View attachment 168354

Dirty I know.

You access both the inner and outer bearing by pulling the rotor. The inner bearing is located in the back of the rotor and is held in with the seal. No need to do any work from underneath the axle.

 

[Blue m&m]

Is your truck lifted? The tie rod geometry looks a bit out of wack. If so, that is easily corrected with a dropped pitman arm.

 

[Alex8706]

No, not lifted.. How is it suppose to look?

 

[Blue m&m]

Generally, it should be dang near horizontal and in line with the axle. That provides the least bumpsteer and makes it easier to align.

 

[damasodeljr]

Solid in the rear independent in the front. I'm not sure about the solid axle but the front independent axle bearings aren't sealed in the way I believe you are talking about. You have to pack it and seal it up yourself. The bearings come to you like this:

View attachment 168310

I'll be following Glacier's guide found here:

My 1st Gen front Brake job Diary

Which I believe is the same guide damasodeljr is refering to.

yes thats the guide i was talking about. TTB (twin traction beam) is the correct axle for your ex so the bearing and seals you were looking at are correct. I highly recommend doing a brake job while you are at it.

Also the key way that locks the bearing nut can sometimes be finicky to remove, tap the nut back and forth a bit if it doesnt want to come out. ive always had good luck removing it with pocket screw driver magnet, i think rednecks call it a pocket flat

 

[Alex8706]

@blue m&m I just check it out is pretty much horizontal.

@damasodeljr thats the only part I am somewhat worried about is that magnetic part. Thank you for the tips. I actually replaced my calipers and brake pads a few months ago so I'm good on that.

 

[damasodeljr]

Well the key itself isnt magnetic, but you would use a small magnet to pull it out

 

[Alex8706]

@damasodeljr Ah, yeah that makes a lot more sense lol. I have one of those telescope magnetic pick up tool things and I am hoping that will be strong enough. Don't have any pocket flats