Is the Explorer's battery underpowered?

[white owl]

.. or are my expectations just too high? I had expected to be able to listen to the radio for hours, even operate some of the electronic actuators such as moon roof, seats, tailgate, and still be able to start the car.

In fact though, simply listening to the radio for an hour (never mind using the electronic actuators) is enough to drop battery voltage to ~ 11v, at which point there is insufficient power to start the car.

I've made two important aftermarket purchases for my Explorer:

1) the JNC Jump N Carry, which I would not be without.
2) a little digital voltmeter that sits in the cigarette lighter socket. Has minimal battery drain; too bad it isn't powered all the time. When you need it most, it has been shut off.

Surely with only 2.5 years and 12k miles, my stock battery is not failing?

Would it be productive to invest in a new Interstate battery?

I love the car, but am disappointed in this weakness, and I'm pretty tired of the radio shutting off automatically every 10 minutes. At times it will even display a message that it is shutting down to conserve battery, and that's when there is 11.2v remaining, enough to start the car... but other times, this does not happen, and that's when the jump starter comes into play.

 

[Adrian Gitch]

I'm assume your talking about when it's in ACC mode. I beilieve my radio etc shut off when its been in ACC mode for a certain period of time which I think is normal. My factory battery went bad after about 2 1/2 years. I've never had good luck with Motorcraft batteries.

 

[thefranchise713]

The APIM will shut itself down after 45 minutes (or somewhere thereabouts), or if the BCM signals a load shed due to a lower (than desired) voltage.

You can put in a bigger battery if you want--I had put in an 850 CCA Interstate in my Explorer for extra insurance--but generally a FLA battery is meant for starting and quick return to charging--it is not meant to be run down on a frequent basis. If this is a common scenario, I wonder if an AGM battery would help.

 

[blwnsmoke]

I do not believe it is underpowered. There are a lot of electronics and you are powering an external amplifier in run mode as well as many modules.

This isn't the 90s where your battery is running a 20 watt x 4 channel radio. In run with engine off, you can have a half dozen + modules/computers being powered constantly.

With that said, batteries do seem to crap out (the originals) quickly and being on my 3rd battery now (141k), I put in a higher CCA battery (750 vs 650 I believe).

 

[bigtexan99]

My factory battery went dead at 28 months and 18k miles. Warranty replacement.

 

[peterk9]

.. or are my expectations just too high?..............................

In short, YES.

Peter

 

[Elfiero]

I do not believe it is underpowered. There are a lot of electronics and you are powering an external amplifier in run mode as well as many modules.

This isn't the 90s where your battery is running a 20 watt x 4 channel radio. In run with engine off, you can have a half dozen + modules/computers being powered constantly.

With that said, batteries do seem to crap out (the originals) quickly and being on my 3rd battery now (141k), I put in a higher CCA battery (750 vs 650 I believe).

"This isn't the 90s"- Now THAT is a hoot! You should have been driving in the early 70s(like I was). Now THOSE were simpler times AND cars! Engines actually got overhauled, kraco under dash stereos and a pair of 6x9s in the back, and you were all good! A "big" alternator was 50 amps! and your battery would last most or all night! Nowadays, there is so much crap running in the background, the battery is down in a few minutes!

 

[Odrapnew]

Sounds like your battery is going bad.
Car batteries these days seem to be hit and miss.

I'm still on my original battery. 5 years/80k miles. I can tell it's getting weak when temp is below 0F, but didn't fail to start at -20F this winter. I'll probably replace it later this summer.

 

[white owl]

Thanks guys, appreciate the responses.

I'm assume your talking about when it's in ACC mode.

Ignition off, radio on. So I guess that's ACC mode. Shuts down at 10min intervals, sometimes with battery warning message, sometimes without.

This isn't the 90s where your battery is running a 20 watt x 4 channel radio. In run with engine off, you can have a half dozen + modules/computers being powered constantly.

I hear ya! But the ignition is off, so I guess I'm not in run. No fans, no lights, no windows, only radio. Even that little voltmeter I use to tell me when to start the engine while I still can gets shut off for my protection.

I've had good results with Interstate batteries in my other two vehicles. I'm going to have a talk with their support people. My battery stressors are not low-temperature starts, but frequent short trips which often prevent the battery from attaining a full charge. Maybe a higher rated battery, or an AGM, will help. I'll see what they have to say.

I'm old school so I guess my expectations are too high. But Ford, selling a highly electronicized vehicle, needs to do more IMO.

 

[JAPeterson]

I don't believe that there is a vehicle out there that is designed for extended play of the radio or entertainment system on just the battery alone.

If you really want to do this then get a deep cycle RV battery and wire the entertainment system into it independent of the vehicles battery. Kick back and enjoy.

 

[peterk9]

Ignition OFF and radio ON is not accessory mode. The radio is always powered and can be turned ON at any time. To enter Accessory mode you press the Start button without your foot on the brake. If you just want to listen to the radio, don't use accessory mode. With a fully charged battery the radio should remain ON for about 40 minutes or so. If you are getting the battery warning message then your battery needs to be recharged. I get the low battery about once a month because like you I don't drive enough and take several short drives. I charge it up and I'm good to go again for a few weeks. Never had a no start issue.

Peter

 

[thefranchise713]

^ It's a side commentary but that "Accessory Mode" is an incredible misnomer on Ford's part. That's really the engine RUN position given a new name in the push-button start era.

True "accessory mode" is powering the accessories without the extra nonsense that doesn't make sense (like IPC, climate control, etc) that should only be active in RUN. And that extra draw, hilariously, is part of the problem to begin with in this discussion...

 

[Mbrooks420]

If you are regularly driving short trips and discharging the battery, I’d add a trickle charger on board and charge it overnight, if it doesn’t sit outside.

I’d probably actually just let it just run longer. Short, non-warm up cycles are hell on your oils and fluids.

 

[Odrapnew]

^ It's a side commentary but that "Accessory Mode" is an incredible misnomer on Ford's part. That's really the engine RUN position given a new name in the push-button start era.

True "accessory mode" is powering the accessories without the extra nonsense that doesn't make sense (like IPC, climate control, etc) that should only be active in RUN. And that extra draw, hilariously, is part of the problem to begin with in this discussion...

There is a difference between accessory and run with push button. As Peter said, when I hit start button once, no foot on brake, some accessories turn on such as radio, windoes, wipers...etc. Climate doesn't turn on. You cannot shift out of park in this mode.

Now, press start again, still no brake push, and goes into 'run' mode. Everything else turns on(climate, dash, all MFT functions ..etc). You can shift out of park in this mode.

However, if you want to listen to radio only, just hit the radio power button as Peter said. Only radio turns on, no other accessories.

 

[Biohazrus]

I too starting to get battery issues, might not be under power related...

I drain the battery once last summer while we were doing a picnic with the door open and some music (was sure the car would better manage/warn me regarding low power!) I had a hard to find a boosting buddy in an empty parking lot, in the middle of no where.
When we got the really cold night last moth, if my car was not plugged, it would of not start in the morning.
Bought it with 2 year on it, no clue if previous owner was hard on the battery.
Now if I do a small run, I am worry it won't start again (happen once so far)
Last time I went to the dealer, they tested it and it was still in the acceptable range!?!?
Is there an easy way to check if there would be power leaking when the power is off?
I have an electronic rush protector, could it be the cause?
I have an old car battery charger, plugged it on 2 times so far, but no clue hold long I should be leaving it on, so far I left it all night.

 

[peterk9]

With doors open the interior lights should turn OFF after 10 minutes when the Battery Saver program kicks in. Of course if people are constantly going in and out using closed doors, the timer keeps getting reset. Radio, if left alone should turn OFF after about 40 minutes.

 

[thefranchise713]

There is a difference between accessory and run with push button. As Peter said, when I hit start button once, no foot on brake, some accessories turn on such as radio, windoes, wipers...etc. Climate doesn't turn on. You cannot shift out of park in this mode.

Now, press start again, still no brake push, and goes into 'run' mode. Everything else turns on(climate, dash, all MFT functions ..etc). You can shift out of park in this mode.

However, if you want to listen to radio only, just hit the radio power button as Peter said. Only radio turns on, no other accessories.

This is how it should be, but not how my car worked. If I did foot off brake, then power button--it went into engine run mode with everything powered up, save for the engine of course. Even with all of that extra stuff powered up, the IPC still scrolled "Accessory Mode Active" or something like that.

 

[white owl]

To enter Accessory mode you press the Start button without your foot on the brake. If you just want to listen to the radio, don't use accessory mode. With a fully charged battery the radio should remain ON for about 40 minutes or so. If you are getting the battery warning message then your battery needs to be recharged.

Thanks for clarification, Peter. Okay then, I'm not using accessory mode. I'm simply turning the radio on and nothing else. It has never allowed the radio to run for 40 minutes or anything close. Even this afternoon, after more extended driving and voltmeter showing a pretty fat 12.2v, the radio repeatedly shut off at 10 min intervals on the button.

If you are regularly driving short trips and discharging the battery, I’d add a trickle charger on board and charge it overnight, if it doesn’t sit outside.

I’d probably actually just let it just run longer. Short, non-warm up cycles are hell on your oils and fluids.

My car sleeps outside. I'm hoping not to need my trickle charger. At least my short trips are not "non-warm up cycles" as the thing does warm up in a hurry. Just maybe not enough to fully charge the battery.

If you really want to do this then get a deep cycle RV battery and wire the entertainment system into it independent of the vehicles battery.

I really want to do this, but without the hassle of carrying another battery, hooking it up, charging it, etc. It's got to be clean and easy. I want the Explorer's firmware to handle it.

I don't believe that there is a vehicle out there that is designed for extended play of the radio or entertainment system on just the battery alone.

How far we have fallen.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I don't believe that there is a vehicle out there that is designed for extended play of the radio or entertainment system on just the battery alone.

If you really want to do this then get a deep cycle RV battery and wire the entertainment system into it independent of the vehicles battery. Kick back and enjoy.

My Kia will play the radio for a solid 5 hours, with no issues.

 

[KayGee]

Thanks for clarification, Peter. Okay then, I'm not using accessory mode. I'm simply turning the radio on and nothing else. It has never allowed the radio to run for 40 minutes or anything close. Even this afternoon, after more extended driving and voltmeter showing a pretty fat 12.2v, the radio repeatedly shut off at 10 min intervals on the button.

There are some different schools of thought but, if 12.2V is the resting voltage, that is more flat than fat.

If you are depleting the battery below 50% charge frequently, it could be sulfated or have a bad cell and it may be best to replace it.

You could try fully charging it and testing it to see what the results are - charge it fully, then let it rest for 12-24 hours and you should read >12.6 volts (6 cells @2.1V each). Maybe even have your charging system tested as well just to be sure.