Wrench (of death), harsh shifting, P0798, P0968

[Havfun]

2010 Explorer EB, 4.0L V6, 151k miles. No troubles with transmission until today. Powertrain Wrench symbol appeared on dash and shifting into reverse and into 4th (or 5th maybe??) became harsh. Also, the OD light stays off and does not come on when the OD button on the shift lever is pressed. Have codes P0798 and P0968 but no Check Engine MIL light. I did a complete fluid change 11k miles ago and the pan was immaculate. I visited this thread:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/overdrive-light-not-working.473300/ - post-3722539
And it sounds like my problem is reported in that thread.
So, now for my questions:

1. Should I first check anything else or am I good to go forwards on replacing the solenoid Pack?
2. I hear references to updated versions of the Solenoid Pack. Does my 2010 include the updated version in the originally supplied part or did the update come after the 2010 Explorer production?
3. The two trouble codes both pertain to the Pressure Control Solenoid “C.” Is it possible to replace this solenoid separately from the entire Solenoid Pack or is this not available separately?
4. Any recommendations on where to purchase the Solenoid Pack (or the “C” solenoid)?

Thanks for any help.

 

[JK080]

With those codes the transmission will maximize line pressure and that causes harsh engagements and shifts. The problem will most likely be with the solenoid block itself, you have to replace the whole solenoid block assembly instead of just one of the solenoids and I would recommend using a OE solenoid assembly.

One thing to look at is the case connector connection for the solenoid block, the AC condensation drain allows water to drip right on this connection and it can cause corrosion and poor connections, this harness connector is available separately if you need it. We install a piece of heater hose to the drain to route the water down past the pan on this vehicle.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[Havfun]

Thanks much for this information JK080. Turns out I already ordered the solenoid pack earlier today. I bought a re-manufactured pack from an eBay vendor who sells a lot of these and has a very good seller rating. He tells me his packs are re-man'd in the USA typically from Ford or Bosch packs. It was quite a savings over the OE part so I hope all will be well. We’ll see.

Tomorrow I plan to pull the case connector and inspect for corrosion. I had seen a video where someone had a badly corroded connector and I just figured the car got caught in a flood. I’m glad you mentioned the AC condensation so I’ll see what I can do to re-rout that drain line. I assume if the connector needs to be replaced that I’ll have to be splicing wires. Ughhh… I sure hope it’s not corroded.

When I pull the solenoid pack, I’ll ohm it to verify the problem is electrical on the “C” circuit which is my expectation based on the two codes I mentioned. I know its possible to ohm the solenoids in the pack from the connector at the PCM but a wire diagram is needed. Do you by chance have a wire diagram for the 2010, 5R55S? I found one but its for earlier years like 2003 or so and the PCM harness connections and the fuse box are not the same.

Also, I’ve read that the new solenoid pack should be soaked in Mercon V before installing. Is this true? I’d like to avoid the drip mess. Won’t the new pack fill with oil quickly if you just let it idle for a few minutes in park or Neutral?

Thanks again for the help! I’ll follow up with the resistance test results and connector inspection.

 

[JK080]

I have never gone out of my way to soak the blocks I have use them dry without issue, most of the time the come in a bag covered with new fluid like they are pre soaked but I think its from them being tested for operation.

 

[Havfun]

Thanks. I drained the pan and pulled the pack harness connector. Its very clean; no visible contamination. Tomorrow I'll pull the solenoid pack and ohm it while I wait for the new pack.
Right on top of the connector was a piece of thick rubbery tape about a square inch; probably to protect the connector from the elements and/or AC condensate. I don't think its sticky enough to reuse it. I guess I could call the dealer to see if they have it. What do you use for this?

 

[Havfun]

I got the pn for the patch from post #6 of this thread: Extend your AC condensate drain ASAP | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
That thread suggests the AC drain may have been re-routed on the 2010 models. I took a peek yesterday and didn't see anything that looked like a drain line or nozzle so maybe it was re-routed. Of course if it was re-routed, I'm not sure why they included the patch on top of the connector! Maybe they just didn't want to change it.

 

[Havfun]

I pulled the old pack today and as I expected Solenoid C is open circuited. All other resistance measurements are in range including the TOT sensor. My local dealer carries the patch kit for $11-. I'll buy that tomorrow. The new pack may be in then.

 

[JK080]

Sounds like you'll fix it with the block!

Let us know what happens.

 

[Havfun]

I think so. As long as the solenoid pack I get is good, it should solve my problem.
If i'm going to re-rout my AC drain, this is the time to do it. From what I've been able to find Ford's solution to the AC drain debacle was to add the patch I mentioned in posts 5 and 6. However i agree with you that re-routing the AC drain is a good idea. Others apparently share that view. I attached a pic showing what I think is the AC drain opening. Its right in the middle of the pic. Am I looking at the right thing? Is that the AC drain? If so it looks like its not easy to access this. Might have to take the linkage out to provide access. When you talk of using heater hose, do you mean the hose that carries coolant to/from the heater core? Any pics or suggestions as to how I might get hose on that nipple looking thing and re-rout it?
Thanks for the guidance!

 

[Havfun]

NOT GOOD!
I got the new Solenoid Pack Friday and did a full resistance check. All ohm'd out correctly so I installed it. Torqued all its T30 bolts to 71 in-lbs. Didn't have a torque sequence so I invented one and did a few cycles till no bolts turned at the click of the wrench. I set the fluid level at 100 deg F as seen on Torque Pro. THE GOOD: All codes including the wrench symbol disappeared on start up. There is a P1000 code but I dont think that is significant since I disconnected the battery for the duration of the work. THE BAD: Shifting into R is very harsh. As bad or probably worse then with the bad pack. Shifting into 4th is also harsh but improved to mildly harsh after about 15-20 miles of driving. Reverse was unchanged after the drive and still very harsh. The other gears are acceptable but not as consistent as with the original housing.
I'm sorry to say that I don't know what to conclude except that I seem to have received a bad solenoid block. Does anyone have a different idea or any suggestion before I contact the vendor? Please chime in even if only to let me know that you agree the pack is at fault. Thanks.

 

[JK080]

Sorry to hear you are still having problems.

We know the other block is bad because of the test with the meter and the code is gone so it had to be replaced.

Harsh engagement into reverse and harsh 3-4 shifts can be the pressure control solenoid B sticking in the solenoid block or faulty PCM's but I have had bad solenoid blocks right out of the box more than once doing various things, that is what I am expecting is going on so I would get a new block and try again.

Hopefully you can send that one back and get a upgrade to a new OE or at least your money back.

Let us know what happens!

 

[Havfun]

Everything points to a defective pack. The transmission was smooth as silk before the original pack developed its open circuit pressure control C solenoid which of course was a sudden onset electrical problem. Therefore, the new pack should have solved the problem unless it was defective. I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow for a new Ford pack much to the regret of my wallet! I'm a little nervous about the 37 miles of harsh shifting i put on the car before giving up and facing facts. I had read that new packs require re-learning and can shift harshly until that settles which it didn't. Hopefully the new Ford pack will get me back to smooth shifting. Fingers crossed...

 

[Havfun]

SUCCESS!
I picked up the new Ford solenoid pack this am from the local dealer and installed it. Worked fine from the moment I started it up after the installation! Put about 40 miles on it and its shifting perfectly. This is one job I really didn't want to do twice but that's what happened. Fortunately it all got sorted out. Thanks for the guidance!
Also can someone confirm whether or not the nipple looking thing in the center of the picture in post #9 is really the AC drain or something else?
Thanks again!

 

[JK080]

Those rebuilt blocks can be trouble, glad to hear you got it all straightened out.

It's no fun having to do things twice for sure.

That looks like the AC drain in the picture, we just attach a piece of hose to it with a clamp and zip tie the hose to the shifter bracket. I use to have a picture of one we did on my phone but I can't seem to find it. If we get one in I will snap another one.

 

[Havfun]

I'm going to try to add that hose extension on there sometime soon. For now, I'm as familiar with the underside of that car as I am with the back of my hand so I'll put the hose extension off for a while. I did add the patch material, F65Z-9240-DC to the connector topside. For $11- at the dealership I got enough for a small fleet of trucks. It is very good for the purpose and is user cut-to-size. Since I did the job twice, I had to remove the first patch which was really stuck on very securely. This stuff will stay put for sure. I do like the idea of re-routing the hose, though either one is probably enough.

 

[JK080]

We finally did one last week and I snapped a few pictures of the drain hose we do, its really just 3/4 heater hose about 18 inches long with a hose clamp. Tighten the clamp down on the drain and secure the other end with a zip tie on the transmission shifter cable or bracket, easy.

 

[Havfun]

We finally did one last week and I snapped a few pictures of the drain hose we do, its really just 3/4 heater hose about 18 inches long with a hose clamp. Tighten the clamp down on the drain and secure the other end with a zip tie on the transmission shifter cable or bracket, easy.

Thanks much for following up with the pictures. Looks like a perfect fit! I will add this for sure!