PLAN B Build

Some of you may know, and some may have suspected, but I'm starting a new project and it starts with a truck you all will recognize.

I picked up R.J.'s Navajo today. She is a little tired and was facing being parted out, but now will start a new chapter, a very different chapter. I give you Plan B.

(dead links)

So let's start off as to why "Plan B"? Well, it has multiple meanings.

• It starts off as I really wanted a early Bronco. I first learned to drive on Zukmans '71 Bronco he had years ago. But myself owning a early Bronco was not going to happen. There just way to ridiculous priced these days. So this is My Plan B.
• JP is not going anywhere, I really just wanted to to do another build and JP is...well, JP!. It works, but it has a following and presence that really can't be changed....it's almost become, dare I say, an Icon of this forum. So this is My Plan B
• The Navajo was on it's death bed. R.J. himself had already give it a time of death... So this is it's Plan B.....or maybe for it C...But for my plan, we'll say B

So what does the Plan B build look like? You'll have to watch and find out. But I'll give you some teasers..

• Starting Base : 1991 Mazda Navajo JX 4x4
• SOHC - donor: 2000 Explorer Sport 4x2 103k
• 5R55E - donor: 2008 Ranger FX4 45k
• 1354 manual - still looking for
• to smell the fresh air
  
• Super Duty Axles - '99 F350 4x4 PSD
• 40's - settling for 37's now
• Grabber Blue

I think that should be enough to entice you all for now...

This is My Plan B

 

[Stic-o]

I actually rachet strapped the suspension before I pulled the motor back out last time. Learned my lesson after the original motor pull.

 

[Stic-o]

Well this has to be a first....

5R55E going into a Navajo

 

[Stic-o]

So I guess, I should probably get my act together and get back to working on this thing.

Today I ordered a floor shifter out of a '08 Escape, it looks like it will work, but we'll have to wait till it gets here and we can try it out.

 

[Stic-o]

So I got the Escape Floor Shifter.....It's a lot taller then I thought it would be, but I could easily cut 6" off the bottom. The pattern is correct and the O/D button is on the side, which should work with the dash cluster light perfectly.

 

[Rick]

That looks slick

 

[R.J.]

But it looks way too new

 

[410Fortune]

Nice! I have a 96 Stang floor shifter and cable in my BII to shift the 4r70w, works great! Lights up like a stock interior and has the niec OD on off button
I did have to file in some "detents" so it would stay in 1 and 2 gears...otherwise it would easily slide into D while off road, seemed like it should shift itself without this mod
I also used the mustang style parking pawl in the trans that points downward instead of up because the mustang cable approaches the trans from the rear. It worked out very well!

 

[CDW6212R]

Nice! I have a 96 Stang floor shifter and cable in my BII to shift the 4r70w, works great! Lights up like a stock interior and has the niec OD on off button
I did have to file in some "detents" so it would stay in 1 and 2 gears...otherwise it would easily slide into D while off road, seemed like it should shift itself without this mod
I also used the mustang style parking pawl in the trans that points downward instead of up because the mustang cable approaches the trans from the rear. It worked out very well!

Ah, it was made to let the driver bump it through the gears.

Did you notice if any Mustangs had leather shift handles, or are they all vinyl? I have to put a shifter in my 92 Lincoln with a 4R, I got a 2003 shifter to begin playing with. I'm wishing I could alter my stock shifter, though it doesn't have any space for an OD button.

 

[410Fortune]

I am not sure the shifter I have is similar to some stangs and crown vics, vinyl seems to be the way they were. They also seem to change every year or other year, when I was hunting for one there was many different styles. It would not be terribly difficult to cut the stiches on the vinyl cover and duplicate it in the leather of your choice I like the way the shifter feels in your hand.
When we built my friends 84 Ranger we did a column shift so could have a full console and twin stick np205. That truck worked out pretty well also his 84 Ranger uses a 92 dashboard and a 92 steering column from a 5 speed. I welded on the components from a Gen II steering column to make it a column shift,and kept it all stock Gen II cable, shifter pawl, bracket, etc.
We bent up the shift arm to clear his dash, and still included the OD button (and tiny wires through the bent up welded arm). It turned out pretty slick but it needs a re visit if he wants to add a position indicator of some sort..

 

[Stic-o]

Spent a few hours trying to get the transmission mated up. I can get everything lined up no problem, but there is still a 1/2" gap between the bell housing and engine. I'm pretty sure it's the torque converter is not seated all the way. Can I just bolt it together and it will seat? I tried getting the tq converter to go in further, but haven't had any luck.

 

[gmanpaint]

Unfortunately, no.

Need to turn the convertor until it drops all the way into place. If you can't get it to drop in as is by turning it, then you have to separate them again. I stand the trans on the tail housing to seat it. Once seated, I use a pc of bent flat stock bolted to the starter bolt hole, to hold it in place until after it's mated to the block, so it doesn't move forward while manhandling the trans in place.

Tip: Using long 1/4" extensions in two of the bolt holes, helps guide the trans into place.

 

[Rick]

In the Mopar transmissions the pump gear in the transmission can wind up in a bad spot where the torque converter won't seat until you properly align the pump gear. If after pulling the tranny off you still can't properly seat the converter try looking for the pump tabs they may be visible between the seal and shaft.

 

[410Fortune]

With the converter seated properly you should actually have a gap between the converter face and the flexplate.
With the transmission fully bolted to the engine, when you install the first converter nut it should pull the converter forward +/- 3/8"
This is how you know you have properly stabbed the automatic and seated the converter

Forcing them together would ruin your front pump seal and possibly more

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, that gap between the TC and flexplate should be there before attaching the nuts or bolts. Measuring that before unbolting the TC is a smart step early on, to help knowing if the TC is seated.

These are great tips for any trans R&R, well said guys, and they are good reminders for everyone. I've done so little trans work myself in the last 20 years, this reminds me also. Thanks guys.

 

[Stic-o]

So sense the trans is still out I decided to test out the Escape shiftier with the factory Explorer shift linkage.

PLUG & PLAY Works perfect, like it was made for it!

Park

Neutral

1st Gear

 

[Stic-o]

So I needed the dash back in to see where the shifter is going to sit, and what to do about trimming it down. But after working on the dash and putting things back together I think I'm going leave the shifter at the current height. It puts the base right at resting arm level which should be nice, and I can angle a 8"-10" screen in front of it and some switches. I'll build a long tall console. And thinking off mounting the PCM over the trans tunnel.

 

[Rick]

The cage is nicely tucked in there. Looks great

 

[Stic-o]

Been waiting for months for the right weather to paint the last unpainted body panel

 

[5spdman]

Looks really good!

 

[410Fortune]