29Rat
Member
- Joined
- October 12, 2018
- Messages
- 35
- Reaction score
- 8
- City, State
- “Optional”
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer Eddie Bauer
2003 Ford Explorer, 4.0L, with a 2004 Explorer Long Block.
Recently got done installing the 2004 engine, ran great for 4 days except for a torn o-ring on an injector, but that was fixed after day 1.
Now I have a few electrical gremlins, that I'm wondering if aren't all correlated to one another.
- Yesterday I started the car after it sat overnight, and moved it out of the driveway, no problems. Then a couple of hours later I went to start the car, and it wanted to start, but was just spitting and sputtering until after cranking for a long while it finally started. Moved it back into the driveway, shut it off, and started it back up, and started just fine. This is a new problem.
- Now today I drove it 4 hours out of town, and got to my destination, shut if off, dome lights come on when key is turned off, opened the door, and noticed the radio nor the headlights went out, as they have always done. Then the dome light timed out (with the door open, so light should be on). Wiggled the key, opened and closed the door multiple times. To no avail. Tried all other doors, and none of them turned on the dome light like they should. Started the car, and with all doors open, no digging or door ajar message on the dash. Turned the headlights off, and radio off, and hoping it'll start in the morning, as I was dumb and did not bring any tools with me to disconnect the battery. This is a new problem.
- Now today, the driver's seat (electric) stopped moving during my drive. This is a reoccurring problem, and I usually just pull the fuse, and reinstall the fuse for the seat track, and it'll work for a couple of days. The heated seats still work, when the seat track is not working, but that's a separate fuse, so makes sense. This problem has been occurring for about 5 months, but thinking it might be correlated to the two new problems.
Anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong, I believe I have ruled out the door latch sensors.
I'm leaning towards a faulty ignition switch? If it is the ignition switch, I assume it'd be a dealer install/someone who can program keys. Or is the switch separate from the lock cylinder?
Thanks in advance!
Recently got done installing the 2004 engine, ran great for 4 days except for a torn o-ring on an injector, but that was fixed after day 1.
Now I have a few electrical gremlins, that I'm wondering if aren't all correlated to one another.
- Yesterday I started the car after it sat overnight, and moved it out of the driveway, no problems. Then a couple of hours later I went to start the car, and it wanted to start, but was just spitting and sputtering until after cranking for a long while it finally started. Moved it back into the driveway, shut it off, and started it back up, and started just fine. This is a new problem.
- Now today I drove it 4 hours out of town, and got to my destination, shut if off, dome lights come on when key is turned off, opened the door, and noticed the radio nor the headlights went out, as they have always done. Then the dome light timed out (with the door open, so light should be on). Wiggled the key, opened and closed the door multiple times. To no avail. Tried all other doors, and none of them turned on the dome light like they should. Started the car, and with all doors open, no digging or door ajar message on the dash. Turned the headlights off, and radio off, and hoping it'll start in the morning, as I was dumb and did not bring any tools with me to disconnect the battery. This is a new problem.
- Now today, the driver's seat (electric) stopped moving during my drive. This is a reoccurring problem, and I usually just pull the fuse, and reinstall the fuse for the seat track, and it'll work for a couple of days. The heated seats still work, when the seat track is not working, but that's a separate fuse, so makes sense. This problem has been occurring for about 5 months, but thinking it might be correlated to the two new problems.
Anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong, I believe I have ruled out the door latch sensors.
I'm leaning towards a faulty ignition switch? If it is the ignition switch, I assume it'd be a dealer install/someone who can program keys. Or is the switch separate from the lock cylinder?
Thanks in advance!