Would like feedback on the Explorer Sport model | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Would like feedback on the Explorer Sport model

94Eddie

Elite Explorer
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I have been driving Explorers since the mid 1990s and I currently drive a 3rd generation model. I am looking to buy a 5th generation model and don't know much about the pitfalls to watch out for with them. I am particularly interested in the V-6 TT Sport model first and the Limited versions second. I am looking to buy one with 30k-60k miles.

What is the reliability of the drive train in the V-6 TT and N/A V-6 models? Is there chronic problems with them I should consider? I usually keep a vehicle for several years so I would want to get up to 150k miles from whatever I buy. I figure the N/A V-6 engines in the Limited models are more trouble free.

Also, are there any common problems with these models that are not related to the drive train?
 



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No disrespect but the first 4 or 5 pages will tell you pretty much everything to look out for. It would be a lot to type that has been said many times over with in depth details.
 






No disrespect but the first 4 or 5 pages will tell you pretty much everything to look out for. It would be a lot to type that has been said many times over with in depth details.
I scrolled through about ten pages of threads and found nothing that provided the general feedback I am looking to hear. There are lots of individual problems but trying to compile a running total of specific problems would take a very long time.
 






I scrolled through about ten pages of threads and found nothing that provided the general feedback I am looking to hear. There are lots of individual problems but trying to compile a running total of specific problems would take a very long time.

PTU failures, Waterpump failures and EPAS failures are the main 3 items. Smaller less frequent issues are water leaks (more common with 11-15s), brakes dragging, blend doors failing (HVAC), exhaust smell.

I am sure there are more I am forgetting. First 3 are the expensive ones if out of warranty.
 






PTU failures, Waterpump failures and EPAS failures are the main 3 items. Smaller less frequent issues are water leaks (more common with 11-15s), brakes dragging, blend doors failing (HVAC), exhaust smell.

I am sure there are more I am forgetting. First 3 are the expensive ones if out of warranty.
Are the drive train issues you mentioned applicable to all Explorer models or just the Sport model?
 






Are the issues you mentioned applicable to all Explorer models or just the Sport model?

All models. Trans and turbos are highly reliable overall.
 






The Sport is awesome!

Buy one that is still under factory warranty, then find the thread on this board that has the information for purchasing an extended factory warranty for a very low price, then don't worry about anything breaking.
 






Loved the Sport and probably will give it another go when the 2020 ST is released.
But, I had to let mine go, as I didn't want to deal with any more future issues.
 






I notice there are a lot of them available in my area with 75k-100k miles. This made me wonder if many people are selling them prior to getting into the mileage range where problems start showing up.
 






I notice there are a lot of them available in my area with 75k-100k miles. This made me wonder if many people are selling them prior to getting into the mileage range where problems start showing up.
Maybe - but this is a very popular SUV as well. There are probably a lot of Camrys and Accords available in that mileage range, and those are historically reliable.
 






We had a 2016 Limited that we just traded on 4/18 for a 2018 Sport (loaded). Love the Sport so much more than the Limited. The V6 in the Limited is a dog compared to the 3.5L TT. My only complaint with our 2018 is with Sync 3. Apple Car Play works great though.

We had a few issues with our 2016. Purchased with 58k miles. Shortly after purchase, I had to replace an HVAC line in the engine bay because it was leaking. Wasn't a difficult or costly repair, but wasn't something I felt I should have had to do on a vehicle with around 60k miles. We also had the paint on the leading edge of the hood bubbling and coming up. Wasn't terrible like some others I have seen, but Ford did nothing about it as they said it wasn't bad enough. I think the rear camera was starting to go bad, but still worked well enough. Traded it with around 96k miles and never really had any more issues.
 






Maybe - but this is a very popular SUV as well. There are probably a lot of Camrys and Accords available in that mileage range, and those are historically reliable.
Why would I be here asking questions if I were looking for a Camry or an Accord? Do you have an issue with my post?
 






We had a 2016 Limited that we just traded on 4/18 for a 2018 Sport (loaded). Love the Sport so much more than the Limited. The V6 in the Limited is a dog compared to the 3.5L TT. My only complaint with our 2018 is with Sync 3. Apple Car Play works great though.

We had a few issues with our 2016. Purchased with 58k miles. Shortly after purchase, I had to replace an HVAC line in the engine bay because it was leaking. Wasn't a difficult or costly repair, but wasn't something I felt I should have had to do on a vehicle with around 60k miles. We also had the paint on the leading edge of the hood bubbling and coming up. Wasn't terrible like some others I have seen, but Ford did nothing about it as they said it wasn't bad enough. I think the rear camera was starting to go bad, but still worked well enough. Traded it with around 96k miles and never really had any more issues.
Thanks for the feedback.
 






Why would I be here asking questions if I were looking for a Camry or an Accord? Do you have an issue with my post?
No - just wanted to point out that judging vehicles based on raw numbers of them for sale with a particular mileage is not a fair way to discuss overall reliability. That’s all.
 






We purchased our 2013 in March of 2017 as a Certified Pre-Owned with 44k miles on it. We are at 72k miles on it now. We have had to change the serpentine belt, 2 O2 sensors, front passenger drive axle, replace the air conditioning line and the HVAC assembly in the rear and repair the front end clunking.
Our Explorer also has the high speed shudder that a few members experienced and no one can figure out. It also has a rattle on cold starts. I will address these two issues next.
We also had to replaced the wear and tear items like tires, battery and brakes and rotors.
We purchased an Extended Service Plan last year just before the CPO warranty ran out and we have had to use it a few times. My advice is if you are buying a used Explorer, get the ESP.
 






Is a preemptive water pump replacement worth considering to stave off a bad water pump taking out the engine? Is this a somewhat common practice with Sport owners?
 






Is a preemptive water pump replacement worth considering to stave off a bad water pump taking out the engine? Is this a somewhat common practice with Sport owners?

A water pump replacement is scheduled for 10-12 hours of shop time if I remember correctly (@blwnsmoke has posted about this before and can confirm or deny) because the whole engine is taken out - the pump is internal (genius idea).

Personally, I would just keep checking the weep hole. If coolant is coming out of there, time to replace, otherwise I would think it would be fine.

It is, apparently, possible to replace it without removing the engine, but I am not familiar with that procedure. YouTube might be though.
 






My 2014 Sport is just over 5 years old and ~81k miles.

3 trips to dealer for:
rear toe link recall, air bag light, and the last time was for the door panel separation and CO updates(even though I didn't have any issues). All no charge to me.

I replaced:
Tires, PTU fluid, rear diff fluid at about 60k.
Rear brakes around 70k.
Serpentine belt last week.
Oil changes when OILM gets to about 20%.

I think my front brakes are getting down there, but will check next tire rotation.

I also plan to change battery later this summer(seemed a little weak when it was really cold, but never failed to start).

Overall I'm happy with it thus far. If I keep it long enough, I'll probably do water pump ~125k.
 






A water pump replacement is scheduled for 10-12 hours of shop time if I remember correctly (@blwnsmoke has posted about this before and can confirm or deny) because the whole engine is taken out - the pump is internal (genius idea).

Personally, I would just keep checking the weep hole. If coolant is coming out of there, time to replace, otherwise I would think it would be fine.

It is, apparently, possible to replace it without removing the engine, but I am not familiar with that procedure. YouTube might be though.

Yes it can be done with the engine in. I do not believe my engine was pulled when I had the pump and chain replaced based on the paperwork description.
 



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Yes it can be done with the engine in. I do not believe my engine was pulled when I had the pump and chain replaced based on the paperwork description.

Would you mind posting a scan of that particular invoice please? I'm very curious as to what that looks like.
 






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