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Drive shaft Center Bearing

New Ford 7A2Z-4A499-A Bracket installed on the driveshaft, ready to go back in the truck.
Center bearing 7A2Z-4A499-A Installed1.jpg
Center bearing 7A2Z-4A499-A Installed2.jpg
 



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I completed this repair, no issues with installation. Less vibration now at speed. The two bearing bracket bolts were torqued after front and rear driveshaft flanges were bolted up, allowing the bearing to assume it's natural location before torquing.

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Center bearing 7A2Z-4A499-A Installed3.jpg
 






Here's some recent pics I took when servicing the customers vehicle. If you compare the uninstalled pic with this you can see where the slip is infront of the carrier bearing.

View attachment 157191

View attachment 157192
Is this a 4x4 or AWD? Because the 2wd carrier bearing/brackets are easily found online but everyone says the one for my 2010 AWD/4x4 v8 sport trac is non replaceable and requires a new driveshaft. Just wondering because the bottom pic sure looks different than the 2wd bracket.
 






Here's some recent pics I took when servicing the customers vehicle. If you compare the uninstalled pic with this you can see where the slip is infront of the carrier bearing.

View attachment 157191

View attachment 157192
Is this a 4x4 or AWD? Because the 2wd carrier bearing/brackets are easily found online but everyone says the one for my 2010 AWD/4x4 v8 sport trac is non replaceable and requires a new driveshaft. Just wondering because the bottom pic sure looks different than the 2wd bracket.
 






Is this a 4x4 or AWD? Because the 2wd carrier bearing/brackets are easily found online but everyone says the one for my 2010 AWD/4x4 v8 sport trac is non replaceable and requires a new driveshaft. Just wondering because the bottom pic sure looks different than the 2wd bracket.

It is a 4x4 truck. Pretty sure AWD uses the same shaft.
 






Is this a 4x4 or AWD? Because the 2wd carrier bearing/brackets are easily found online but everyone says the one for my 2010 AWD/4x4 v8 sport trac is non replaceable and requires a new driveshaft. Just wondering because the bottom pic sure looks different than the 2wd bracket.

there are alot of threads on here about your questions.
4x4 and AWD use same shaft that has a CV joint instead of a U joint. compare my pics(4x4) to Paul's (2wd).
on the 4x4 you would have to take apart the CV joint in order to replace the bearing and its very tedious and best left to a professional Also is not standard Ford maintenance / procedure. its worth getting a new drive shaft from Colorado drive shaft or fort wayne install is very easy if you have access to a lift and a mild inconvenience if you have to do it on the ground.
 






I've got to replace my rear driveshaft on my 07 ST 4wd. I've looked at the Fort Wayne, but I also found one at Tulsa Driveshaft Inc. It's also a good looking built driveshaft and it's has a replaceable center support bearing and u-joints. It's $575, thinking I'll order it.
 






So i've been noticing more and more vibration while driving at 45+mph speeds... even on brand new roads. went under the truck and found this at the center bearing on my drive shaft.... are these replaceable or what?

other symptoms i am having are: Rough engaging of first gear from a slow coast or stop (random) Squeaking when starting from a stop/ switch between drive and Reverse. and what feels like a studder or bad shift in a higher gear. similar to a TCC not engaging properly.View attachment 154091

i attached the picture. The red circle is wear it is all torn and their is a lot of side to side play in the shaft. (NOT rotation, that has normal amount)

08 ST XLT
HERE'S ONE WHICH NO ONE CAN HAS BEEN ABLE TO HELP ME WITH "yet" I installed a "FORD" 8.8 posi in my 2010 Explorer rear end, done professionally as I didn't have the means to reset pinion/ring gear back lash at home and wanted it done "perfectly". Installed a used 8.8 while the actual rear was being converted, everything was 100% OK. PIA taking out the rear end by the way. Re-installed the "new" posi rear end and discovered that the center bearing had disintegrated and the D/S is a "NON-SERVIVABLE" unit. Ordered a new D/S ( Rock Auto premium) car drove with NO -0- issues with the non existent bearing in place???? Installed anew D/S and 60 MPH was a disaster with the vibration. reinstalled old D/S while I the "new" D/S re-balanced. NO VIBERATION. Installed the new, re-balanced D/S and couldn't drive @60 MPH due to the vibration. Ordered another D/S for a Spicer dealer and installed that one, same condition, 60 MPH un-drivable. Took the driveshaft back they send it back to Spicer for "re-work"?? re-installed same condition @ 60 mph. Removed the "NEW" d/s re-installed old , no center bearing, D/S and sent the "NEW, USA D/S to a high end drive shaft company who makes D/S for 1,000 + HP cars and all kinds of race cars. Re-did the r-n-r again, installed the "NEW, rebalanced D/S and 60 MPH N/G??
I've built cars, boats, airplanes, X service manager for Porsche/Audi, manufacturing Engineer responsible for the CH/MH 53-E helicopters, US Army crew chief, building a "NEW"1977 Coyote Bronco, have a 66 "Shelby replica w/Arning IRS so not some B/S artist, but no one has been able to help me so far, Have friends who have been racing sport cars since the 60's and no one/ we can't figure what's wrong??? Anyone have any ideas, yes I've rotated /indexed the d/s on the flange too. I'm/we're at a lose, HELP.
 






my only thought is that the u joints are not in phase? i've been there with my old Ranger, didnt have the splines right and when u joints are out of phase it vibrates bad...
 






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