2006 XLT Rear Window won't unlock | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2006 XLT Rear Window won't unlock

Scorpion8

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 13, 2014
Messages
386
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Location
SE-AK
City, State
SouthEast Alaska
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Explorer XLT
The other day the rear liftgate glass window stopped unlocking via either the remote keyfob, or the button under the bezel where the liftgate handle is. There is the quietest click-click when I use the keyfob to try to open it. I replaced the actuator switch on the right side of the liftgate, but that wasn't it. I assume now I'm looking at the door window lock "actuator" but am finding confusing parts relationships and identification.

Do I want the "actuator" p/n 6L3Z-25218A42-AA, or do I want the "latch" p/n 6L2Z-7843150-AA? Does the latch contain the motor lock actuator for the window, and is the first listed actuator for the whole liftgate, or just the window? Sourcing parts online as there is NO Ford dealer in my area, nor one that I can drive to.

A little help please. Thanks.
 



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hope this helps
upload_2019-5-15_15-35-59.png
 






It does, but adds more confusion too. M262 says "liftgate glass actuator" but doesn't appear to be near the liftgate glass lock, according to the diagram. Is p/n 14A583M262 the right part to be actuated by the keyfob or tailgate switch to open the glass window lock?

Edit: ps - where did that diagram come from?
 






Oh yea, and the fuse is fine, #6 20A.
 






It does, but adds more confusion too. M262 says "liftgate glass actuator" but doesn't appear to be near the liftgate glass lock, according to the diagram. Is p/n 14A583M262 the right part to be actuated by the keyfob or tailgate switch to open the glass window lock?

lift gate actuator would be for locking the entire trunk door and glass actuator would just be for the rear glass window.

can you manually get the door and window to open from the inside of the liftgate?

are you getting voltage to the connector and the actuators?
 






lift gate actuator would be for locking the entire trunk door and glass actuator would just be for the rear glass window.

can you manually get the door and window to open from the inside of the liftgate?

are you getting voltage to the connector and the actuators?

The liftgate "door" opens and locks/unlocks just fine from the keyfob or any other means. It's just the glass. No, I haven't had time to pull the liftgate valence panel off to get into the wiring, but the weekend is coming. I have not been able to manually open the glass portion by any means so far. Is there an internal release that I don't know about?
 






The liftgate "door" opens and locks/unlocks just fine from the keyfob or any other means. It's just the glass. No, I haven't had time to pull the liftgate valence panel off to get into the wiring, but the weekend is coming. I have not been able to manually open the glass portion by any means so far. Is there an internal release that I don't know about?

Its been years since ive had an explorer i currently have the ST. so i am not sure about the manual release.
I was suggesting to see if its possible to get a flat head screw driver or pick n carefully try to release the latch mechanism.
If that works then try to test the actuator while the windows open, locking and unlocking the suv. Also hook up a voltmeter and test current while unlocking n locking the vehicle.
I can find ya the rear valence removal video or instructions if you need that. Probably on youtube.

Sorry im not of more help
 






When you say that you replaced the actuator switch, are you referring to the push button switch under the licence plate light plaque?
 






When you say that you replaced the actuator switch, are you referring to the push button switch under the licence plate light plaque?

Yes.
 






OK. Recently had a similar problem (glass would not open). Was a bad connection at the switch. Someone in a past thread mentioned that if the wiring was disconnected at the switch that the remote would then open the glass. Sure enough, when I disconnected the connector, the remote opened the glass. Maybe a default mode?
 






Dunno, will give that a try. I put in a brand new switch as described above. I got the rear valence panel off today and pulled the window latch actuator. The whole latch/actuator/deal is p/n 6L24-7840860. Seems like just the motor/electrical switch is p/n 6L2A-78404C10.
 






Just spent some time looking thru the wiring diagrams and the workshop manual. There are 3 ways to open the liftgate glass. The remote, the pushbutton switch and the drivers door keypad. Note that the door locks must be open (unlatched).

The components of the liftgate glass system are the circuitry, window glass switch, window glass actuator and the smart junction box. When you initiate one of the 3 methods above, the coil in the SJB relay is energized, closing the relay contact and energizing the coil in the actuator.

Inspect all components and wiring connectors for corrosion, check for good ground at the switch and actuator and battery power at the switch. If these all check out ok, then your issue is either in the SJB (not serviceable) or in the wiring harness between the SJB and the actuator.

The above is a generalization, hope this helps in some way.
 






Mine doesn't open by any of those means, and when I had the latch out of the vehicle, applying a voltage source to it would not get it to cycle. I tested the voltage at the plug when cycling the latch via the key fob and it seemed to have good voltage each time, so am thinking the latch mechanism ist kaput. I found one on eBay and have it enroute.
 






i am very happy that you are getting voltage to the source. those Smart junction boxes are sold are ridiculously overpriced and need to be dealer programmed or forscan, in the event you replace one. i blew mine up when current jumped the fuse and blew out the tail light and turn signal coil in the SJB
keep us updated!
 












It was this part, the motor/electrical switch actuator p/n 6L2A-78404C10. The small nylon actuator wheel (with cutout) is turned electrically to unlock the window glass, but is spring loaded to return after it unlatches. Mine must have developed a burr somewhere inside, because it "sticks". If you reset it by hand, it will operate fine. But once it snaps back on normal operation, it'll stick again. I replaced the whole window latch w/actuator using a part sourced on eBay and now everything works fine again. Thanks everyone for all the help.

Problem is I have been totally unable to source that part above unless it comes with a latch assembly. It has it's own Ford p/n, but no joy. I was going to rebuild my old latch assy with a new actuator to have a spare, but that may not happen.
 






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