My New, New 347

I'm abandoning my old thread (My new 347), as the motor has been an epic fail for many reasons.
Against any sane reason, I'm trying again.

Post #1 is a thread with all parts for my own records. I'll keep adding to this as I have the time and know what parts are being used.

New (Used) unmolested factory block from Vroomzoomboom. Thanks Tim!
Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshafts 430234705400 w ESP Armor coat option
Bullet Pistons BF6010-030 - 2618 Forged Flat top w TFS valve reliefs made for power adder applications
Rods -I beam Forged (From Old Motor)
King Pro Series Bearings
Michigan 77 SH1321 Cam Bearings
MEL10688 HV Oil Pump - Block and pump machined to fit under the stock oil pan
FEL-1133SD MLS head Gaskets
PAC-1207X LS Springs (Yes Tim, there is something Cheby going in to my Ford motor)
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers (old build)
HRC911968 Howards link bar lifters
Comp Cam 35-775-8 proposed, may change after head flow number change 35-775-8 - XFI™ Stroker Hydraulic Roller Camshafts, Computer controlled (E.F.I.) with O.E. hydraulic roller cams 1985-95
rollmaster timing set (Hopefully re-usable from old build)
TW170 heads (old build) that will be ported and the chambers softened for boost
push rods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7" (old build)
ARP Head Studs (old build)
Torque converter CircleD SKU:30-09-19 11" 2800 stall triple disk lockup FORD 11" HP Series 4R70 Torque Converter
Trick Flow Track Heat intake (old build)
Cometic C5652-060 intake manifold gasket
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kit 1 54-7904 (old build)
ARP Flexplate Bolt Kit 100-2901 (old build)
PCV Valve EV127A
header gasket remflex 3003

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)-re-balanced by machinist to 0
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth -re-balanced by machinist to 0

Injector Clinic 650H 62lb injectors
Return style fuel pump canister installed in fuel tank (1998 Explorer)
Another 6an braided line added as a fuel return line
Aeromotive Stealth Electric Fuel Pump 11542 340lph
Aeromotive 13130 fuel regulator
Trick Flow TFS-5158000R fuel rails

 

[shucker1]

A super man cave needs a spare fridge, washer and drier, dishwasher, a big wash basin, and a normal sink and bathroom.

Bathroom would not need (63) different kinds of shampoo or extensional junk correct?

OK.

We are into Hijack Country now.

Dono,

The floor is yours Sir!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

so i am going to add this here. when dono and i were trying to find the misfire with the scanner i had, i remember looking down at the scanner then hearing "ok, ready?" i was lke "wha...." all of the sudden i hear the rpms come up, and its on! he nailed it and pinned me to the seat. i was freaking impressed how this thing...well FLEW! i think i said something like "holy christ this thing PULLS!" hell, i was laughing so hard i thought i had snot coming out of my nose! don was laughing at me laughing! lol. next mod needs to be a parachute!
this also just popped into my mind. your misfire happens at idle right? when you datalogged it, does it happen off idle as well?

 

[Dono]

Tim, I know I was seeing misfires when driving around as I could see the code p0300 coming up even after I had reset it when driving around.

Here's a datalog of the pids now:

As a pid of interest, there is the 'engine is misfiring' pid. I'm not sure what makes it go to active (1), as it was going from zero to one regularly with a stoich of 14.64. Now, even seeing misfires on cylinders change at 14.5 stoich, the engine is misfirng pid never goes to 1. This to me would mean no more p0300 engine codes.

As a point of interest, all documentation I found says an engine will always misfire from time to time, thats the way it is. I just made it a whole lot worse with this cam at idle and low rpm's. Also, I could not see any misfire counters go up when I was reving the motor in park.

I wish there was some way to add more fuel just at idle, as I would like to add a hair more fuel at idle and see how the motor responds. I don't want to change stoich in the tune any more as I'm not seeing misfiring when reving. I will log misfires when driving around, and if I am seeing quite a few, I may try moving stoich to the richer side and see if it helps. If it does, I'll monitor gas mileage and see if has a positive, or negative effect. You would think less misfires means greater gas mileage, but I guess its all a balance.

This fueling issue should have gone in my tuning thread, but who knew where it belonged until the issue was found.

It was pretty funny seeing Tim unable to stop laughing. Its not a beastly tire smoking pull, it comes on smooth and then just keeps pulling. I do feel the rear end squirm around from time to time, and that puts a smile on my face.
I left Tim's place, and he recorded me leaving. I was a bit heavier footed than I would normally be in residential area, but not any more than I would do on a main thru fair. In the video all you hear is Turbo. Way louder than I thought.
Tim, if you can, post directly to u-tube and post the link. I can't get any type of upload with any kind of quality.

 

[shucker1]

Looking forward to the video...

 

[vroomzoomboom]

to me, it sounded quieter then the last time i videoed it. btw, for all that dont know (like everyone) that stop sign way down there is around 200 or more feet, so thats how far you can here explorer force one away

 

[Centaurus5.0]

Yeah.. but.. hearing idle power 200' away and seeing 200' black marks up close are two separate things..

I propose the op exhibit 600hp from the new motor or it never happened!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I propose the op exhibit 600hp from the new motor or it never happened!

i would normally agree with you, but knowing first hand how many problems don has had in the past, knowing how much time he has put into his truck....knowing the money he has had to spend on it, i will never force that issue with him.

 

[Dono]

Slow and steady.
After years (Has this been a 5 year saga now?), I'm finally starting to feel like I have something that could be considered a daily driver.
Also, I'm under no illusion knowing this opinion could change tomorrow.

On motor alone we saw 490hp. I'm betting we have about 20% drive train loss on our trucks, putting the truck at about 390 n/a to the wheels. With my 3-4 lbs boost currently, and a wild ass guess of 25hp/lb boost, I'm at 480-500hp to the wheels at higher rpm's.
That's pretty respectable power for an old windsor block, and even more respectable for a 2000 Ford Explorer.
If I tear the block in two I'd be going out and buying a different vehicle.

I'll keep tweaking, and once I'm tuned perfectly for a daily, and the knock sensor not sensing any knock, I might try adding a hair more boost and see if I can maintain a reasonable amount of timing in the timing table. That's about it for this guy though, as I'd love to get a couple of years driving before purchasing a new (to me) daily driver.

 

[Dono]

I was wrong, or at least only partially right.
Motor would still run rough from time to time and pull p0300 random misfire codes when idling.

There was a clue I was ignoring though. My sub woofer would seemingly randomly bark. Almost like a deep woofer discharge.
Then, I came across a post by @Fredness Electrolysis, stray voltage, bad grounds, the "Big 3" and more...

I started thinking. Hmmmm. I wonder if bad grounding could cause this?
I pulled the negative terminal off the battery. Clean, and tight. I re-cleaned it and used some black conductive grease on the fittings. I't ugly, messy stuff that seems to stain your hands, but it was worth a try. Guess what?

Rough idle is gone (well, not gone, but much better considering the cam).!

Now, since I have a battery that has side terminals also, I was driving around and stopped in at our local have everything store (Princess auto) and picked up a side terminal to post adapter and a post clamp. Tim had given my some starter cable with an end on it that I didn't use previously, so I ran one end to the alternator bolt, and the other end to my new negative post. I also ran a 8 wire to a bolt on the coil pack. I'm not sure about ground looping, but I thought I'd see how it goes.

So far, excellent. Now I have 2 ground points on 2 seperate spots on the battery. Cleaner idle, and no more sub woofer 'pop'.

Im extremely optimistic this was the real problem all along. Possibly part of my stinky idle issue for years.

 

[shucker1]

So hopefully you shipped the "Electrical Gremlin" off to Tim's house?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

So hopefully you shipped the "Electrical Gremlin" off to Tim's house?

NOOOOOOO!
In a few months I will have my own problems to deal with . Right now it’s an idiot neighbour over a fence

 

[Dono]

I don't care where these gremlins go, as long as its not with me anymore.
Actually, I do. I wouldn't wish this weird this stuff on any of my friends.

Lets all wish these weird issues go to Tim's neighbor!

 

[gmanpaint]

I got a couple of gremlins to ship off too!!

Tim's house, hmm... lol

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I got a couple of gremlins to ship off too!!

Tim's house, hmm... lol

im still not talking to you. GO BRUINS!

 

[gmanpaint]

X

Last week you was for the sharks, and the week before, the stars. Sorry your team got spanked early on. Better luck next year.... eh.

 

[shucker1]

Right now it’s an idiot neighbour over a fence

I feel you pain.

Lady behind me caused me to get rid of my Rottweiler a long time ago.

With age she has actually mellowed out, (She 82 now)

 

[Dono]

I found my p0300 issue. At least I'm almost certain after a few false senses of satisfaction.
It was in the tune.
Tuning my 347 with rear mount turbo

 

[Dono]

This whole modified truck thing is wearing thin.
I have a tic that I was struggling with finding, along with some oil leaks.
One leak was on the transfer case output flange on the transfer case to the rear drive shaft. I pulled the shaft, polished the shaft (I know that doesn't sound right), replaced the seal, and put it back together. The shaft that goes in to the transfer case was actually pretty pitted and worn. I think it polished up good, so time will tell.

The other leak was (I think) at the transmission oil dipstick tube mating to the trans. This was surprisingly easy to do. The old O-ring was showing extreme signs of deterioration, so I'm pretty sure that another leak is fixed.

Now, on to my tic. Tic's are a pain in the butt. It wasn't getting worse, so I didn't think it would be gasket. So, I decided it must be from me not setting my rockers quite right when I did the valve seals. I had it apart, then life got busy and I rushed. Big mistake. Now I have backfiring thru the intake (Too tight on the rockers) and still have a tic. Of course I'm not happy.

I organized another vehicle to drive yesterday and started digging in to the problem last night. I know I have to pull the passenger valve cover and spark plugs out to reset the rockers (I didn't pull plugs last time in the interest of saving time, and turning the motor over to find the cam base circle on each port obviously didn't go so well). But what's the tic about?

Ok, this is not good. Passenger header has to come out. That means front diff has to come out again, and the motor mount has to come off to lift the motor.

This is wearing mighty thin on me (did I say that already?)

 

[Rick]

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sorry to hear that, those are pretty headers.

Do all the rockers seem identical, same tightness, now wear from the pushrods to the sides etc? I haven't had a car with roller rockers since 1997, so I've forgotten the sound they make.

I'm going to step up to shaft rockers for my keepers, to hopefully not pull valve covers for years at a time. Ed Curtis stocks the brand which runs $900-1k depending on the heads.