My 2001 Ranger Edge 4x4 Supercab

[4pointslow]

I have been smelling coolant since I bought this truck.
I decided to replace the hoses, pump, and thermostat housing just as maintenance and because I don't want to replace them in the winter.
Still was intermittently smelling coolant afterwards.

I am happy to say I finally found the leak. It is on the front side of the radiator between the radiator and condenser, at the seam where the tank meets the core.
I already picked up a Carquest radiator from Advance Auto and plan to install it this coming weekend.

 

[4pointslow]

The radiator is installed.
I am not impressed with the quality.
There is a large gap between the radiator and the fan shroud at the top and bottom.
The original radiator didn't have this gap because it had a double wide aluminum bracket even though the core is only 1 inch wide.
Also the radiator to support mounting holes had plastic shoulders in the rubber isolators, instead of metal ones like the original did. I swapped the metal ones over to the new radiator.
We will see if it holds up.

 

[Dono]

Thanks for posting this. Hopefully you don't have to come up with something to cover those open areas to increase cooling.
Carquest gets a big X

 

[4pointslow]

Back on post 69 I posted a video of my alternator light coming on when going hard on the throttle.
I could have used a voltmeter or something to check battery voltage but decided to do it with the Factory scan tool.
Here is a screenshot showing the voltage is dropping out. Drops down to around 12.18
When it is not acting up it is around 13.98 to 14.06
Further testing required.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

keep posting findings on the alt. i never was able to figure out why i also have a low charging issue with mine

 

[delexploder]

Stupid question but are you guys running a factory pully

 

[4pointslow]

keep posting findings on the alt. i never was able to figure out why i also have a low charging issue with mine

I will, does your charging light come on?

 

[4pointslow]

Stupid question but are you guys running a factory pully

As far as I know my 2001 Ranger alternator is stock or a stock replacement if the alternator was replaced.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I will, does your charging light come on?

nope. i cant remember how low the voltage drops at idle, but its low enough all the lights dim at a stop light and the gauge almost bottoms out, but i do remember it wont go higher then around 13.5 ish when the rmps are above 1100

 

[Dono]

Tim, I'm surprised you don't keep throwing the dreaded cam position code. I have to keep my idle higher than I would like to keep my voltage up, or I get that code. It seems like the v8's are prone to that.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Might start a thread on it one day. For now, let’s not clutter up 4pointslow’s thread with off topic posts
Sorry John

 

[boominXplorer]

On the radiator note the 95-97 v6 and 96-98 v8 trucks use a 2 core rad factory and switched to a 1 core in 1998. The older radiators are backwards compatible and swap right in.

On the alternator isn't the stock ranger unit 90a or 110a? Where the explorer one is 130a and bolts right in. You probably have an extra running around as many v6 explorers you have.

 

[4pointslow]

So after searching online for a while, I found that many are upgrading their 90-95 amp alternators to 130 amp.
I had a 3rd gen 95 amp in my Ranger so I wanted to upgrade and at the same time see if it was just a bad alternator causing my battery light to come on at higher RPM's when mashing the gas pedal.

My 2004 Explorer has a 130 amp 3rd gen alternator and I have a spare for it so I installed it on my Ranger.
The charging system stays at around 13.43 now, even at WOT. The light doesn't come on anymore either. (see picture below)
Safe to say the old alternator was the problem.

So I want to buy a 130 amp alternator to have as a spare for my 2004 Explorer and 2001 Ranger.
They both have different part numbers though, so which one do I get?
I will add that the 2004 charging system is controlled by the PCM, 2001 Ranger is not.
My guess is I should go with the 2004 Explorer Alternator since it is working in the Ranger with no problems.

 

[4pointslow]

On the radiator note the 95-97 v6 and 96-98 v8 trucks use a 2 core rad factory and switched to a 1 core in 1998. The older radiators are backwards compatible and swap right in.

On the alternator isn't the stock ranger unit 90a or 110a? Where the explorer one is 130a and bolts right in. You probably have an extra running around as many v6 explorers you have.

LOL I posted a little too slow.

 

[4pointslow]

Also, the two 1998 Explorers I own have 2nd gen alternators so they wont work.
The 2004 I own did work. LOL

 

[4pointslow]

I just bought a new (not reman) alternator from PepBoys.
Part number 7768602N
Internet special said 25% off, retailed for 164.99
41.25 off
only 5.00 core and I am not returning one
Total with tax was 137.27

Got the right 130 amp one for a 2001 Ranger,
I didn't want to take a chance using the 2004 Explorer one permanently because it is supposed to be PCM controlled, and the Ranger one was even less expensive from PepBoys.

2004 Explorer diagram is top picture below
Bottom picture below is 2001 Ranger

 

[4pointslow]

The correct 130 amp alternator is installed.
The connection for the large cable was a different configuration being on the back, but worked.
The pulley was a little bigger and made the serpentine belt fit better too.

 

[4pointslow]

Checked the voltage again to make sure it was working and it is.
The alternator does whine a little. Hope it lasts.

 

[4pointslow]

Today I changed the oil on the Ranger and installed a Fumoto Valve on this vehicle too.
Also noticed the BJ that the previous owner had installed has a rotting boot now.
I took a picture of the BJ from Moog that I installed too for comparison, the boot is integral on the Moog BJ.
There was also a piece of trash stuck in the knuckle, LOL.

 

[4pointslow]

My Ranger developed some darkness on the left front wheel.....
Also pulled to the left when braking.
Checked the pads and the left side was worn pretty bad but the right side still had plenty of material left.
Not wanting to have anymore problems down the road, I replaced the pads,rotors, and brake hoses.
I used the more expensive ceramic pads and they had a FF labeled on them. (should be the friction rating).

Also I replaced the driveshaft with a used one because I have a high frequency vibration that feels like a driveshaft issue at around 80-85 mph (turnpike speeds). The vibration did not go away and I noticed a weight had fallen off the used shaft. I may have the original shaft rebuilt and balanced since I know a place that rebuilds them. We'll see.