2003 Sport Trac - Crank no Start - Intermittent

[ST-1234]

After a few stops this afternoon, my Sport Trac will crank and not start. It cranks, and sounds like it is getting fuel, then dies; shutters and sputters a bit. It has done this 3 times now, and then starts right up the next morning. The battery is producing 12.4V resting. Anti-theft Transceiver has been just replaced and all keys programmed. Swapping a known good relay with the fuel pump relay produces the same result. Inertia switch confirmed pressed down at each time there is a problem. Ford dealer scanned and produced no codes. If this reacts that same as in prior times, it will start fine tomorrow morning.

Based on this scenario, what are some ideas on possible causes.

Thanks

 

[david4451]

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem, a split hose inside tank or fuel pump is on its way out.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Fuel pump. Install a gauge and check it when it doesn’t start. You can also rap in the tank with a mallet, sometimes that will jar the pump into working again. Once this cycle starts though, the only remedy is a new pump. If pressure is low I’d only drive it enough to run out as much fuel as I could.

 

[ST-1234]

Thanks for the replies. I had towed to a shop and they diagnosed as follows.... I wonder if this makes sense:

Alternator Voltage fluxuating between 13.95 and 12.41, and "pulsating"
Nuetral Switch Bad
Starter -Closed Loop is Open

They indicated that they got codes (P1816 and P1814) Interesting because Ford Scanned this two days ago when replacing transceiver and pulled no codes. It started up for them; still intermittent.

Shop orginally recommended replacing Alternator, Starter and Neutral switch; then backed off with just Starter and Neutral Switch.

Does this sound like they are on the right track? I have limited experience with this shop.

Thanks
Joe

 

[boominXplorer]

If it cranks it's not the neutral safety switch or the starter. It's not going to be the alternator either.

 

[ST-1234]

That makes sense to me. The Fuel Pump also seems reasonable and at this point, I don't just the shop and need to get it elsewhere.

 

[ST-1234]

One more piece of information... When it starts after going through the crank-no-start phase, it runs fine. This past Monday, I drove it 150 miles after a crank-no-start issue while out of town. I of course had someone follow me.

If fuel pump, would it only act up occasionally while attempting to start and once running, perform file for an extended period?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Fuel pumps can be very intermittent.

 

[boominXplorer]

Once a fuel pump starts up it usually will stay on till you turn it off. Sometimes when worn they won't start without a bang on the tank, I feel the fuel pump is your issue.

 

[ST-1234]

This seems to be the case. Another interesting observation is that it starts after it is towed. I wonder if something gets bounced around when it is towed that makes it kick in....for a time.

 

[boominXplorer]

This seems to be the case. Another interesting observation is that it starts after it is towed. I wonder if something gets bounced around when it is towed that makes it kick in....for a time.

Most of the time when dying a fuel pump can be shocked to come back to life. Banging on the tank will get it to pop on or hooking 18v to the pump from a drill battery (kinda risky but I've done it in a pinch). It would possibly startup for a few times and then she'll be done never to start up again.

 

[koda2000]

I've never had an OE pump fail that couldn't be made to work one more time with enough ignition key fiddling. For the first pump I replaced I bought an AirTex pump (big mistake). The AirTex pump didn't last 10,000 miles and when it quit it flat out quit while running. Fortunately it died at the end of my driveway.

Banging on the bottom of the tank never worked or me, but turning the ignition key ON & OFF many times (sometimes many, many times) always got one more start out of all my OE pumps. You just need to listen for the FP prime, which is not always easy to hear unless it's somewhere quiet. They just wear out after around 175,000 miles. The only exception was my '97, who's original, dated OE pump was still working at 267,000 miles (I changed it just to be safe). If you have 150K or more, you'd be wise to just go ahead and replace your pump before it leaves you stranded somewhere. I've had zero problems with the Bosch pumps I've installed. The nice thing about the Bosch 69128 kit is that it comes with new submersible fuel line, new fuel line clamps, a jumper wire to covert the wide-to-narrow electrical connection to the pump and a new pump insulator. The only other parts you'll need is the strainer sock and new fuel filter.

As your truck does run okay once it does start your problem is most likely fuel or spark related. To not waste money I'd verify which is your issue at a time when the engine does not start.

I can't say for sure that the Bosch 69128 FP kit is the right one for your '03 ST so be sure to check the fitment chart. At some point I know the FP assembly used in the ST changed, but I don't know when this happened. Maybe it was when Ford went to the plastic fuel tank?

 

[Budaa]

After a few stops this afternoon, my Sport Trac will crank and not start. It cranks, and sounds like it is getting fuel, then dies; shutters and sputters a bit. It has done this 3 times now, and then starts right up the next morning. The battery is producing 12.4V resting. Anti-theft Transceiver has been just replaced and all keys programmed. Swapping a known good relay with the fuel pump relay produces the same result. Inertia switch confirmed pressed down at each time there is a problem. Ford dealer scanned and produced no codes. If this reacts that same as in prior times, it will start fine tomorrow morning.

Based on this scenario, what are some ideas on possible causes.

Thanks

My 2001 sport trac 4x4 did same thing I had fuel pump changed and never happened again.

 

[donalds]

Fuel pump imo
Is my fuel pump bad 1999 ford explorer shoc 4.0. Lots of pictures on the replacement