Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Kirby N.]

From my experience with both axles there is no difference except the disks

 

[gmanpaint]

The ends of the axle tubes are cut off for the c clip eliminaters (sp?) that get bolted on to the flanges.

I'm not sure that the drum ends of the tubes are the same as the disc.

 

[Stic-o]

The outers are the same. Should not matter. Can I ask why though? With disk brakes you really don't the kit. The caliper will hold everything together. I wheeled Golden Spike in Moab, and drove back to town all on a snapped axle shaft. No worries. Never would have happened with drums.

 

[BKennedy]

The outers are the same. Should not matter. Can I ask why though? With disk brakes you really don't the kit. The caliper will hold everything together. I wheeled Golden Spike in Moab, and drove back to town all on a snapped axle shaft. No worries. Never would have happened with drums.

I converted my drums to discs by unbolting the drums and bolting on disc brakes off a 1999 Explorer, so the flanges are identical.

One less thing to break, bigger bearings, chromoly axle shafts..... Maybe I should think on this one since I have never known anyone to actually break a C-clip.

 

[mounty71]

I’ve also read that c-clip eliminators aren’t incredibly strong with side loads.

 

[FR-425]

It does not fit because the inner diameter of the parking brake drum is to small for the bearing retainer.

I thought about ordering just the bearing retainer to see if it would be possible to modify the rotor and or the retainer to fit, never got around to it.

Your turn!

 

[Rick]

I’ve also read that c-clip eliminators aren’t incredibly strong with side loads.

I've heard this as well. All of the C clip eliminator kits I have seen in the past were for drag racing applications only. Strange Engineering, and another company that I can't think of right now both had disclaimers about it which is why I never did it to my 8.8.

 

[Rick]

Just found this:
C Clip Eliminator Kits - Mark Williams Enterprises, Inc

Mark Williams has three different kits for the 8.8".

 

[Stic-o]

I mean...if your board.....you can do C clips...or I can just send you my PayPal, and you can see me your boardom money

 

[RockRanger]

I have the superior axle c clip eliminator kit in my ranger. Think it is the same as the Yukon kit. I bought it installed in the axle already.

 

[gmanpaint]

OK, so for side load damages to happen using this 88 kit.......

What's it going to take to do some actual damage to the retainers? We talking hardcore wheeling on big meats, or light trail use on a set of 35's?

I have been running the Y-88 kit for a few years, mild trail use on 35's, and not a single issue. I have seen RockRanger beat on his setup much harder with larger meats and haven't heard a bad word from him yet.

I like the additional hub to hub width and the D60 sized bearings that increased the axles load capabilities. I have had the rear caliper bolts back off on me, a few times while trailing, and have even lost one once. Experiencing that, I wouldn't rely on them 100% to hold my axles in place in case they snap in half.

So..whats it going to take to damage this setup? What's the side load fear stemming from? Has anybody here, actually experienced this first hand, and can explain what happened, when they damaged the parts?

Just curious is all.

 

[BKennedy]

Great information.

It does not fit because the inner diameter of the parking brake drum is to small for the bearing retainer.

I thought about ordering just the bearing retainer to see if it would be possible to modify the rotor and or the retainer to fit, never got around to it.

Your turn!

I have converted my drums to disc from a 1999, does that eliminate that issue?

I mean...if your board.....you can do C clips...or I can just send you my PayPal, and you can see me your boardom money

Not that BORED, board, whatever..
I have been too busy to do any upgrades to the Explorer for a while. I am ordering stuff in so I can get to it whenever I have time. This part-time security risk management job I have is taking up most of my time. I am also the executor of my parents estate, which is a monumental undertaking that makes my head hurt.

 

[BKennedy]

OK, so for side load damages to happen using this 88 kit.......

What's it going to take to do some actual damage to the retainers? We talking hardcore wheeling on big meats, or light trail use on a set of 35's?

I have been running the Y-88 kit for a few years, mild trail use on 35's, and not a single issue. I have seen RockRanger beat on his setup much harder with larger meats and haven't heard a bad word from him yet.

I like the additional hub to hub width and the D60 sized bearings that increased the axles load capabilities. I have had the rear caliper bolts back off on me, a few times while trailing, and have even lost one once. Experiencing that, I wouldn't rely on them 100% to hold my axles in place in case they snap in half.

So..whats it going to take to damage this setup? What's the side load fear stemming from? Has anybody here, actually experienced this first hand, and can explain what happened, when they damaged the parts?

Just curious is all.

These are great questions. I do some fairly hard rock crawling with my Explorer from time to time and only want to do upgrades that will make it less likely to fail. If this is not a upgrade worth doing, then I will skip it.

 

[FR-425]

I also had 99' disks on mine. It's the inner tiny little parking brake drum that's the issue.

NO NO i'm all wrong, the issue is the caliper bracket spacing the bearing retainer moves it out 1/4" and then the rotor won't align properly with the caliper.

I think it's doable but not worth the effort to mod, shim, and rig everything.

If I really needed full float I'd just go back to drums or replace the 8.8 with a 9" or Dana 60

 

[BKennedy]

I'm going to skip the C-clip eliminator kit for now.

Ordered the 3.8 Atlas II, some new brake rotors, pads and new MOOG ball joints as I noticed one of the lowers has some play. Should be ordering new TRE tie-rod kit and steering gear box, and a new set of rear leaf springs as soon as I get it weighed.

I have a neighbor who is a high performance car builder. I asked him if it was worth it to rebuild the 4.0 I pulled from the donor with performance parts to get more power, and if it would still pass smog. He is familiar with the Ford 4.0, has done a few and is checking prices for me. He is also looking into weather a GM supercharged 3800 L67 engine out of 2000-2005 Buicks and Pontiacs could be swapped and pass California smog. He said the swap would be fairly straightforward since I have the metric 60* bellhousing on the 700R4 and that engine bolts directly to it. They are a great engine, come from the factory with about 240 HP, are OBD2, and won't break the bank. I saw someone selling a low mileage L67 on pirate a while back for $250.00. He also says that engine won't have the overheating issues associated with the first generation Ford 4.0. What he is not sure of is the transmission since it is not electronic and might not pass a visual smog inspection. This is an idea I got a while ago, and am still kicking it around. If I kick it around as long as it took me to do the SAS, it could be 5 or 6 years...

 

[Stic-o]

Why not 5.0? It could pass smog, since 2nd gen came with it. OBD2, and I'm sure there is a special bell housing or something available plus there are performace parts galore.

I would have gone this route with the Navajo, but I had the 4.0 SOHC, but when it dies I'll do 5.0.

 

[BKennedy]

Why not 5.0?

Cannot mate the 5.0 to the metric bellhousing 700R4 transmission, the 5.0 swap has been done a lot, and I prefer GM engines.

 

[FR-425]

You can register it at my address, run around with Arizona plates. It's an excuse to come wheel'n every two years!

 

[BKennedy]

You can register it at my address, run around with Arizona plates. It's an excuse to come wheel'n every two years!

Thanks for the offer....

AA has an estimated ship date for my Atlas of 07/14.

 

[BKennedy]

I ordered the oil for the Atlas. They only recommend Amsoil MTF, which is $20 a quart. I ordered four so I can change it after the recommended 500 break-in miles without reordering. After that, they recommend 10-15,000 mile changes. At about 1500 miles a year, I can go a long time before it needs to be changed again.

I also realized I need to drain the front diff fluid to change out the ball joints, so I ordered more Lucas 85-140 gear oil.

I was looking at these awnings. I know they are cheap, but so am I, and my rig is garaged. I would make it easily removable so I can store it when not going on a expedition type run.
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