Stop using Fram oil filters! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Stop using Fram oil filters!

Will an FL1A bolt onto a 5.0 Explorer? If so I'll stop using the listed size and use the bigger filter.
Ive always used Motorcraft since this topic was discussed on TCCoA.
No, the 96 up 5.0 uses metric threads, I think the napa gold 1087 is the same size as the FL1A with the metric thread
 



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No, the 96 up 5.0 uses metric threads, I think the napa gold 1087 is the same size as the FL1A with the metric thread

The 302 Explorers all have a metric thread filter adapter. The angle of that adapter and the length of it(the oil cooler version was made to use that space too), ends up with a small filter space. So only the FL820S fits well.

But there is a Ford Motorsports block filter adapter which can be swapped in place of the stock block adapter, by also using the old SAE thread thread adapter. The block thread adapter is removable with a large Allen wrench tool, about 7/16" size(I checked it once with a chisel end). That FMS adapter Summit carries for about $90, and can be angled to match the stock one, and it takes the large FL1A filter; Ford Performance Parts Oil Filter Adapters M-6880-A50

I have not installed the one I have yet, because it is a big deal to remove that OEM filter adapter. It's very hard to get on the large bolt that holds it on, very little space there with everything around it. I suggest that for anyone with a 302 Explorer and keeping it long term. A bigger filter is very desirable.
 






The 302 Explorers all have a metric thread filter adapter. The angle of that adapter and the length of it(the oil cooler version was made to use that space too), ends up with a small filter space. So only the FL820S fits well.

But there is a Ford Motorsports block filter adapter which can be swapped in place of the stock block adapter, by also using the old SAE thread thread adapter. The block thread adapter is removable with a large Allen wrench tool, about 7/16" size(I checked it once with a chisel end). That FMS adapter Summit carries for about $90, and can be angled to match the stock one, and it takes the large FL1A filter; Ford Performance Parts Oil Filter Adapters M-6880-A50

I have not installed the one I have yet, because it is a big deal to remove that OEM filter adapter. It's very hard to get on the large bolt that holds it on, very little space there with everything around it. I suggest that for anyone with a 302 Explorer and keeping it long term. A bigger filter is very desirable.
That adapter looks similar to the one used on the 2.9 in the 86-92 ranger.
 






Mobil 1 and Motorcraft for me. Walmart still carry's these around here.
 












About 5 years ago, I obsessed about oil filters and spent perhaps 50 hours going through brands and specifications from manufacturer's websites. The theory of it all is interesting. There is an ideal particle size to trap, but you want to let the very finest harmless silt through because if you trapped that, it clogs the filter too quickly.

Motorcraft and WIX(NAPA) are easily found, not expensive and I consider these the minimum quality to run in my vehicles.

The very best, if you want the very best available and are willing to pay a little extra... buy Baldwin or Donaldson.

I'm a 1st gen Explorer owner, so I don't know if this will apply, but in the 1st generation, the area where the oil filter mounts allows for a longer filter, and you can get the same spec filter, but in a longer housing and more filter media. Also makes it easier to reach.
 






About 5 years ago, I obsessed about oil filters and spent perhaps 50 hours going through brands and specifications from manufacturer's websites. The theory of it all is interesting. There is an ideal particle size to trap, but you want to let the very finest harmless silt through because if you trapped that, it clogs the filter too quickly.

Motorcraft and WIX(NAPA) are easily found, not expensive and I consider these the minimum quality to run in my vehicles.

The very best, if you want the very best available and are willing to pay a little extra... buy Baldwin or Donaldson.

I'm a 1st gen Explorer owner, so I don't know if this will apply, but in the 1st generation, the area where the oil filter mounts allows for a longer filter, and you can get the same spec filter, but in a longer housing and more filter media. Also makes it easier to reach.

The OHV 4.0's do have a large are for the filter, and the earlier ones with the FL1A type, there are several larger filters available. A two quart size will fit there, I bought a couple many years ago when I was researching.

A "bypass oil filter" is a very special type which filters down to about 2-3 microns, normal filters remove about 15 microns, or larger. To get the oil super clean, you install one of each, the bypass filter slowly over time(filters in parallel), will make the oil cleaner, than when new from the bottle. But it's tough to find the space to mount a 2nd filter which in the smallest size is over 1.5 quarts large. For a nice keeper vehicle, it'd be worth it.
 






The fact that the filter itself is glued is irrelevant. Oil soaked filter paper is held in place by glue ? BFD ? What psi is there and what is required ? I haven't seen any failed oil filters, ever. None. "Spring" steel vs "Coil spring" WTH ? You mean like the leaf springs with 250,000 on the rear of your Explorer or the ones over 100 yo on a Mauser rifles that will load every time without fail forever ? Some engineering stuff is glitter to attract the moths. These filters are perfect example. If you want clean oil, change it. Another video for click bait pro on the web strikes again in the universe of irrelevance.
 






MC on the X..K&N gold on my 392 Charger.
 






The fact that the filter itself is glued is irrelevant. Oil soaked filter paper is held in place by glue ? BFD ? What psi is there and what is required ? I haven't seen any failed oil filters, ever. None. "Spring" steel vs "Coil spring" WTH ? You mean like the leaf springs with 250,000 on the rear of your Explorer or the ones over 100 yo on a Mauser rifles that will load every time without fail forever ? Some engineering stuff is glitter to attract the moths. These filters are perfect example. If you want clean oil, change it. Another video for click bait pro on the web strikes again in the universe of irrelevance.

I agree that the spring type isn't a big deal either way, but the glue, rust and cheap anti-drain back valve material are. I wouldn't put a Fram filter on my 13 year old lawn tractor based on the paper, glued ends and short filter media. It's not worth the risk of damaging your engine to save a couple of bucks.
 






What is it about oil filters? :)

All filters have the media glued to end-caps. You want metal end-caps because it lends structural integrity to the filter cartridge, and allow for better sealing vs a circle of cardboard. The pressure on that is the differential pressure from the inside and outside of the filter media, and filters will start to bypass if that differential pressure starts to exceed about 8-10 psi. An oil filter sees cycles of heat and pressure, and you really want metal in that application, not cardboard.

Spring type is almost a non-issue, but it is for me because I live where the temperature can get below zero for weeks at a time. So, my filter goes into bypass mode a lot, even with full synthetic oil. I trust a coil spring. A leaf spring in this application might be ok, if it's not just a metal stamping... if it's made from the right steel the right way. I don't know if that's the case, so I like coil springs better.

Then, you get into the gage of steel used for the can, number of pleats and surface area, micron ratings, etc... it gets deep very quickly.

But, here's the bottom line for me. Look at industries that absolutely depend on their engines for their work. Trucking, heavy construction, etc... and you will see one of the following:
1) An OEM filter, such as Motorcraft or the engine brand, like CAT or Cummins.

2) A heavy duty filter, such as WIX, Baldwin, or Donaldson.

They have already done your research!

This is a big deal because you really never know if a filter fails internally, right? I mean, if I buy a cheap wrench and it breaks, I know not to buy that brand again, but on oil filters, you have to depend on the reputation of the company alone. So, I'm not going to buy the cheapest filter I can find. I think that's a bad idea.
 












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