96 5.0 needs a new motor | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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96 5.0 needs a new motor

"Hard vacuum plastic lines? Yeah. Those are a bit harder to find nos. "

And that is why I used steel brake lines for vacuum lines.
 



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The Explorer oil filter adapter made for the later models without the cooler, fit right but are a PITA to install(remove and install).

I have an FMS adapter which is made for SBF's in general to turn the filter to the side. I hope to find that it is a good alternative to the OEM adapter. The two OEM oil filter adapters are large and only accept the small metric filter. The FMS version is more compact and made for the common large FL1A filter. It's adjustable in that it can be turned to any angle before tightening it. So it should be possible to mount it to place the FL1A right where the original is(where the cooler portion is(or dead space of other type adapter)).

I got that one from Summit, but eBay had it too for about $80. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6880-a50
 






"Hard vacuum plastic lines? Yeah. Those are a bit harder to find nos. "

And that is why I used steel brake lines for vacuum lines.

Cheater, what do those look like?
 






Look up something called Polyflow tubing.

Used all over in the oil field.
 






oil filter adapter off an older 460 in a truck can turn oil filter if the block is set up fl1a filter I don't know what the thread is in the newer blocks but if it's not metric you can change filter adapter turns out with allen wrench
roscoe
 






oil filter adapter off an older 460 in a truck can turn oil filter if the block is set up fl1a filter I don't know what the thread is in the newer blocks but if it's not metric you can change filter adapter turns out with allen wrench
roscoe

Ditto, forgot to mention the small block adapter(the threaded component), is matched to the oil filter adapter. All older Ford V8's use the regular block adapter made for the FL1A threads. The Explorer 302's all have a metric block adapter. It takes a very large Allen tool to R&R those, it's about 3/8" or 7/16" in size, very large odd size.
 






i'm not sure but I bet you can get an adapter for a FL1A and it will work on newer block
roscoe
 






Well it's been a while since I've posted in here , but I've been waiting for the truck to be running and driving right to give any updates. Unfortunately the rig is still not driving right. I have the engine running like a champ but still needs a good tune. The main issue I'm still having is the transmission. I brought the truck back to the trans builder to have him figure out what was wrong with it and he had the truck for 6 weeks. When it was finally done I picked it up on a Sunday, had a few things to button up on it before driving it 150 miles back from the builder to my house. I brought the truck to my dads place in the same town as the builder and got it ready to drive back. The truck drove around town just fine while doing some testing and adjusting on stuff but after about 20 miles the trans was starting to act funny. It was late that night and I had to be at work in the morning, with the exploder being my only way back home, I decided to chalk it up to air in the system and go ahead and drive it back that night, not having much of a choice. As soon as I started heading home I began realizing that the issue was not air in the system and was going to need the trans looked at again. The trans would act like it was in neutral whe taking off from a stop, it would get going to 2 or 3 miles an hour and then the engine would free rev, I could let of and gas it a couple of times and it would eventually catch and jerk into gear super hard. The shifts from 1-2 seemed okay but 2-3 was way too hard and then it acted like it didnt know when to shift into 3rd, either shifting way too soon or way too late, 3rd gear around 35-45 miles an hour shudders really bad. Sometimes it doesn't want to shift into OD unless you really get on it and then let off, and other times it shifts into OD way too soon and the engine bogs down. Once I get it into OD it acts like its slipping but drives okay if I keep the RPMs steady and the speed is around 65, but will drop into 3rd and make the engine rev up when coasting down below 65. It made it the 150 mile trip home that night and drove me to work for a couple weeks after but is definitely slipping and the fact that it basically does a neutral drop when accelerating from a stop is telling me there is something still wrong inside and makes me lean towards a valve body issue. The truck being my daily driver, proving itself unreliable, and needing to have more transmission work done, meaning the truck would be out of commission at least another month made my choice simple. I went out and bought a 2015 silverado 1500 with the 5.3L LS engine and parked the exploder next to the house. I haven't messed with the truck for a couple weeks now but will be using my new truck to tow it back to the builder next Wednesday. All the work is being done under warenty but at the cost of my time and fuel to get it there. This builder was very reputable and was supposed to really know what he was doing. Maybe it's just bad luck but the transmission was just fine before the rebuild and now is basically undriveable. The guy who built it is still standing behind his work for now but I have a feeling that a time is going to come when he will choose toeither build a new core or refund my money so I can have someone else fix it. The transfer case being a used unit, it could have problems but the issues I'm having dont seem like the could be cause by the transfer case since to my understanding it is an entirely mechanical component that If it were to fail, the failure would result in a complete loss of power being delivered though it. The builder states that the original issue was that trans filter fell off the valve body and cause the trans to suck in air and the direct clutches were burned up, which he replaced. I am very disappointed with the way this has played out but am looking forward to being able to have it as a full time project vehicle and do some of the more time consuming most and upgrades once the current issues are straightened out. I will soon be looking into a solid axle swap, for the front and a SOA in the rear, as well as putting some BFG 35's on it and maybe installing the body lift that I have for it. Anyways, this is where I'm at with it, awesome sounding and running engine that needs a tune, a busted transmission, and big plans for more upgrades to come! P.s sorry for any typos, I'll try to proof read when I have some time.
 






I'm sorry to hear it's got a big issue. Let the builder work on it as long as you can, and don't do anything to the trans yourself. The shop will stop honoring any warranty if someone else works on it at all.

The AWD TC is completely unrelated, and can have no affect on the trans or shifting. BTW, the trans filter is bolted to the VB with two bolts. I would worry more about having two bolts work themselves completely out. My thought would be why those two came out, and no others. I agree it is most likely VB related. Assuming all solenoids and accumulators were replaced, and the VB completely taken apart and cleaned, I'd wonder about internal wear that they didn't catch. How many miles are on the trans, it may be time to replace the VB?
 






I'm sorry to hear it's got a big issue. Let the builder work on it as long as you can, and don't do anything to the trans yourself. The shop will stop honoring any warranty if someone else works on it at all.

The AWD TC is completely unrelated, and can have no affect on the trans or shifting. BTW, the trans filter is bolted to the VB with two bolts. I would worry more about having two bolts work themselves completely out. My thought would be why those two came out, and no others. I agree it is most likely VB related. Assuming all solenoids and accumulators were replaced, and the VB completely taken apart and cleaned, I'd wonder about internal wear that they didn't catch. How many miles are on the trans, it may be time to replace the VB?

Well I have an ebay bw4406 manual case installed not the AWD case. And my filter was not bolted on, it didnt even have bolt holes on it. It was a press on style filter, not sure if the valve body had bolt holes or not but I know the filter doesnt. As far as milage ln the VB, it is hard to say as the odometer has been stopped at 156k since I have owned the truck except for about a 2 week period that it worked after replacing the worm gear but it quickly stopped working again.
 






There are two very short bolts that hold the filter in. Those don't do anything else but hold the filter. I've never heard of a filter made for Fords past 1980 that aren't bolted on. The seal in the filter is decently strong rubber etc, and won't let go without plenty of effort(vibration over time would do it).

The speedometers are reliable, but when old the electronics will go out, my Mercury did that and I put another used one in about five years ago. I'd say hunt one with the lowest mileage you can find, they are expensive to repair, and obsolete too.

Any automatic has the VB as the weakest link. Wear of the rest of the trans is basically minimal or fixable. The dozens of very small parts inside a VB are moving constantly, steel against aluminum. They wear slowly, but given enough time, the wear creates leaking that eventually affects shift functions. If the leaking is enough, the VB has to be replaced, or a small few VB bores can be repaired(using expensive single function tools by Sonnax). So long story short, the 4R70W is very reliable, and gladly, that also means if a VB is needed, most used VB's are decent choices to try. Avoid an odd truck application VB, I'd hunt one from a 96-01 Explorer(98+ requires a matching wiring harness and re-pinning of the connector outside the trans), or Mustang(be sure it has separator plate with same round steel supports). 2002 Ford began using just the plate to back the small accumulator, so the plate isn't enough(the fix is to buy a thicker plate from Sonnax, or the round reinforcement plate kit(comes with four bolts)).

Of course you can let the shop do the trans again, but I'd worry a lot that the VB is the issue, and the bet would be they didn't get it cleaned well enough. If the issue is internal wear with it, the result will be the same. Thus a replacement VB might be smart to take with and have them install. Contact them and see what they think, most shops commonly suggest a new VB.
 






Well here is what we've all been waiting for, or at least what I've been waiting for! My truck is finally running, driving, has true 4x4 now, 33" BFG KM2's, and I went wheeling today! I've decided to stop worrying about trying to fix everything cosmetic on it and just enjoy my truck for a while. All I have left on the to do list for it is replace the AC accumulator, build bumpers and rock sliders, buy a winch, and get the engine tuned! Pretty short list considering where it started. Here are some pics from today featuring my wheeling partner sam the dog.
 






Got her flexing pretty good

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So what was the problem with the tranny?
 






So what was the problem with the tranny?
Torentien bearing came apart, it was a new a new bearing. Chewed up the lower planetary he replaced all that and reamed and installed sonnax pressure reg valve. It is shifting and driving great but is still having an issue where if it sits for more than a few hours and I put it in drive, the engine free revs, but if i put it in first second or reverse, it engages and then I can put it back into drive and it wont do it again until it sits for a while. He said it sounds like the drain back valve is sticking and letting the converter fluid drain back when its sitting. Not too worried about it since taking it back to the shop means I wont have my truck for a few months, and fixing it myself requires dropping the trans on the garage floor by myself. I will eventually try to get it fixed or pull it myself and work on it but for now I'm trying to just make sure it doesnt get any worse and live with it.
 






Torentien bearing came apart, it was a new a new bearing. Chewed up the lower planetary he replaced all that and reamed and installed sonnax pressure reg valve. It is shifting and driving great but is still having an issue where if it sits for more than a few hours and I put it in drive, the engine free revs, but if i put it in first second or reverse, it engages and then I can put it back into drive and it wont do it again until it sits for a while. He said it sounds like the drain back valve is sticking and letting the converter fluid drain back when its sitting. Not too worried about it since taking it back to the shop means I wont have my truck for a few months, and fixing it myself requires dropping the trans on the garage floor by myself. I will eventually try to get it fixed or pull it myself and work on it but for now I'm trying to just make sure it doesnt get any worse and live with it.

So it had some wear in the VB, to need a larger(reamed) pressure regulator valve? That might be a big clue that there could be other issues, or excessive wear in the VB. I'd want it checked more thoroughly, or replace the whole VB, again with several Sonnax upgrade parts.
 






So it had some wear in the VB, to need a larger(reamed) pressure regulator valve? That might be a big clue that there could be other issues, or excessive wear in the VB. I'd want it checked more thoroughly, or replace the whole VB, again with several Sonnax upgrade parts.
I agree, all of the parts that this guy has been using are sonanax and raybestos, but it's still not right. I'm going to keep using it for now and if i cant get it figured out on my own I'll just let it die on me and buy a reman jasper trans and call it good. It's to the point now that if I'm going to pay someone to try to fix this one then im just going to pay for a good quality reman and do the r and r myself.
 






These are very strong transmissions, but like others, there are some potential wear issues in the VB. Usually most good Ford models don't wear out bores in the VB's, but Sonnax has actively found where issues have happened, and made new larger parts, and the specialty tools to install them. The down side is that each of those tools is very high dollar(say $200-$400), thus if a VB has that kind of issue, swapping the VB is usually the most feasible choice.

I don't have any spare parts, except for one 96 trans I got first long ago. If I was caught up on about 18 months of other work, I'd do something with that, maybe part it out etc. I gave about $200 or so for it in 2003, 75k miles I was told.
 






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