Exhaust leaking and smoking up from underneath

[FireFighter209]

tried searching it on google, couldn’t find anything that matched my description. My exhaust is leaking a pretty good amount underneath my car. It is also smoking, I’m gonna go out now to look again, but I’m sure I seen all the fluid and smoke around the body of it, or the muffler. My steering was pretty shaky on the way home and so was the entire car ride. Any idea how to fix this up?

1996, 4x4, v6

 

[FireFighter209]

Okay just checked. Flange has drops of some fluid I think water or coolant. My radiator is full but my coolant reservoir is empty

 

[rasouth]

You could have a coolant leak somewhere that is dripping coolant down onto you exhaust pipe, making it "smoke". Since coolant does not evaporate it maybe be dripping off the pipe.
You said the ride was rough... Meaning the car was running rough or the road was rough?
Start with the basics...check wires, plugs, hose connections, etc...compression check is a good idea to see if you have an internal leak.

 

[FireFighter209]

Honestly I have no clue of which anything you mentioned. I do however know that I have been getting this bumpy drive for awhile now. I’ve posted before and a lot of people mention transfer case. I know my driveshaft is going out which is probably causing the majority of it. But this exhaust problem is kind of the problem I described. Just 100x worse. And I know the exhaust hasn’t been giving me that problem for a year now. So idk how the two issues feel alike. I’ve posted elsewhere and someone. Told me my head gasket blew. I don’t know about that though. I understand coolant would be leaking like it is now. But it’s not green. Just straight pure water dripping from the flange and both tailpipe. Along with my coolant reservoir being empty. I’ve blown a head gasket before and honestly there were no warning signs. It just happened.

 

[J_C]

So you have an exhaust leak and need to replace exhaust component(s), not surprising given its age.

The next step is to decide how much of it to replace, personally I'd assess whether the cat(s) are good and look at a cat back replacement, or if you've determined it's just the muffler and want to economize the repair, there you go.

The ride quality/steering is most likely a different issue. Tackle them one at a time.

 

[fast_dave]

Tackle them one at a time.

+10

 

[FireFighter209]

So you have an exhaust leak and need to replace exhaust component(s), not surprising given its age.

The next step is to decide how much of it to replace, personally I'd assess whether the cat(s) are good and look at a cat back replacement, or if you've determined it's just the muffler and want to economize the repair, there you go.

The ride quality/steering is most likely a different issue. Tackle them one at a time.

You’re right. I will have to do that. Just trying to bandaid this ride as much as possible. Scared to do a costly fix in case something else expensive just gives out. She’s been a wonderful ride up until now. Paid $1,000 for her last April. So I can’t complain I suppose.

Do you think the driveshaft could be causing a huge issue with the rough drive?

 

[J_C]

You can bandaid some portions of the exhaust, depending on where they are. There's slap on goop aka muffler cement or exhaust repair kits, or clamping a piece of sheet metal over an area, also using muffler cement if needed to seal it better, even cutting out a small piece of pipe or if it's just the flange seal, taking the exhaust apart to replace just the seal (and probably cutting off and replacing the bolts, risking damaging hangers to get slack, etc, low cost annoyances but they add up), but if it has the original exhaust, or even several years on an aluminized steel replacement exhaust, the bandaid isn't going to allow it to heal itself. Slap on goop (alone) in particular, tends to be very short lived.

Rough drive, I don't know but would guess the transfer case. You might drain the fluid and look for metal particles in it. If it's the original fluid it was due for new anyway. IIRC my '98 takes 1.5qt Mercon ATF, aka Motorcraft XL-12 formerly, now replaced by Mercon LV, or any other brand claiming it meets XL-12 specs. Is the '96 the same?

 

[FireFighter209]

You can bandaid some portions of the exhaust, depending on where they are. There's slap on goop aka muffler cement or exhaust repair kits, or clamping a piece of sheet metal over an area, also using muffler cement if needed to seal it better, even cutting out a small piece of pipe or if it's just the flange seal, taking the exhaust apart to replace just the seal (and probably cutting off and replacing the bolts, risking damaging hangers to get slack, etc, low cost annoyances but they add up), but if it has the original exhaust, or even several years on an aluminized steel replacement exhaust, the bandaid isn't going to allow it to heal itself. Slap on goop (alone) in particular, tends to be very short lived.

Rough drive, I don't know but would guess the transfer case. You might drain the fluid and look for metal particles in it. If it's the original fluid it was due for new anyway. IIRC my '98 takes 1.5qt Mercon ATF, aka Motorcraft XL-12 formerly, now replaced by Mercon LV, or any other brand claiming it meets XL-12 specs. Is the '96 the same?

I believe so. I changed the fluid once. Emptied it a week later it was completely greyish

 

[J_C]

I'm talking about visible flecks of metal rather than color. If it was dirty previously the residue left behind could turn it a shade gray.

 

[koda2000]

I'm talking about visible flecks of metal rather than color. If it was dirty previously the residue left behind could turn it a shade gray.

I think the OP is well beyond needing a t-case fluid change. He should remove the front DS and see what difference that might make (if any). Driving w/out the front DS is not really an issue and may buy this vehicle some time. The OP has already stated the front DS can be wiggled around by hand and he has obvious t-case issues. This truck seems to have a slue of issues at this point (many unrelated). IMO if the OP cannot diagnosis and make DIY repairs they should consider getting a newer vehicle, as paying someone to diagnosis and make repairs on this 23+ year old vehicle isn't worth it. I'm not trying to be unkind, just realistic.