2016 Explorer 4 Cyl Ecoboost Rough Idling

[TFSole']

In drive or reverse, not moving, with my foot on the brake, it idles at +/-500 rpm and the entire vehicle shakes.

Help?

 

[boominXplorer]

Drive good other than that vibration? I'd say motor mount.

 

[TFSole']

Drives fine....my other 2017 Explorer idles at 8-900.....

 

[TFSole']

Bump

 

[jhu8]

I think I've noticed that on mine but really nothing excessive. If I let it drift forward slightly it stops and then when I stop again, usually it's fine with no issues. Let's just say it's never been to a point where I thought anything to abnormal about it.

 

[TFSole']

I believe that it is simply idling too slow. Is there anyway to increase the RPM when the truck is in drive or reverse with your foot on the brake? Again, my other 17 Explorer idles at 7-800 RPM

 

[jhu8]

I believe that it is simply idling too slow. Is there anyway to increase the RPM when the truck is in drive or reverse with your foot on the brake? Again, my other 17 Explorer idles at 7-800 RPM

I'll have to see what mine idles at. Not sure about increasing it.

 

[MM07]

I could check my 18 tomorrow. Same engine.

 

[whimsey]

We have a 2017 XLT with the 2.3 EB and it idles right around 700-750 rpm. It is very smooth and quiet at idle whether in park/neutral or in gear, even with accessories running such as the AC or defroster, still very smooth. Maybe you have an air leak that's causing problems. Also check on the timing chain cover, they tend to leak I heard, ours did. We caught it at 44,000 miles so we were still in the power train warranty of 60,000 miles. It's an expensive repair if you have to pay for it yourself.

Whimsey

 

[MM07]

Just checked mine. Looks like about 800 rpm at idle. Hard to tell with that gauge. No shaking.

 

[jhu8]

Yeah mine hovers around there as well. Remember that gauge goes from 0-2k rpm. Mine sat right below the middle of those. No shaking. But I have noticed it lightly before but again, very minimal and short lived.

 

[WaffleStomping]

I’ve recently noticed this same issue. 2017, 2.3 EB. Never noticed it in the past. It seemed to be fine in Park, then switched to Drive with my foot on the brake and noticed the dip/shaking. I took a video and made an appointment. I can follow up with what/if they find anything if that’s helpful.

 

[peterk9]

I’ve recently noticed this same issue. 2017, 2.3 EB. Never noticed it in the past. It seemed to be fine in Park, then switched to Drive with my foot on the brake and noticed the dip/shaking. I took a video and made an appointment. I can follow up with what/if they find anything if that’s helpful.

Welcome to the Forum.
Please do post a followup after your appointment so others may benefit. Too often people will post about an issue but fail to update.
Thanks.

Peter

 

[KayGee]

In drive or reverse, not moving, with my foot on the brake, it idles at +/-500 rpm and the entire vehicle shakes.

Help?

Does it do this consistently and repeatedly or is it intermittent? Have you done any troubleshooting or checked for codes? Could be any number of things from a vacuum leak to bad plugs to bad gas to ...

Is vehicle still under warranty? If so, take it in and let dealer document and diagnose in case something happens down the road.

 

[WaffleStomping]

An update on my issue if it helps OP. Took it in Thursday, they were unable to recreate (it seems to happen when the engine is cold). They recreated it the next morning and replaced the #3 plug. Needed the car for next week since I’m on-call so I let them know I would see if it helps. Next morning, started, same issue

 

[WaffleStomping]

I don’t know if you are still having the same issue, but I was. The #3 plug didn’t fix. Took it back, they had it for 3 weeks and found coolant leaking into #3 cylinder, replaced the cylinder head and picked the vehicle back up. Dealer asked me to drive it for 300 miles to see if it goes away. It didn’t.

Took the vehicle back again to look further into it. They’ve had it for a month this time. The timing was off (they think when they put it together from the cylinder replacement), so they fixed that. They replaced the front and rear o2 sensor, as well as the catalytic converter, still didn’t fix. They are currently waiting to hear back a response from the Ford hotline for the next part to replace.

Did you ever figure anything out with your rough idle issue?

 

[WaffleStomping]

I don’t mean to hijack this thread, but was experiencing the same issue and wanted to provide another update. Car still in shop, total of 95 days over 4 times bringing it in. Just replaced the long block, they stated the issue is better (isn’t rough at idle but is rough at 1100 RPMs).

They are going to test tomorrow, but I think their going to want me to put some miles on the new engine before they troubleshoot further. I did this when they replaced the short block with no change. Does anyone have an opinion if putting more miles on a new engine making a change with rough idle/running rough?

 

[Adrian Gitch]

I don't see how putting some miles on it will suddenly make it stop running rough at 1100 rpms. It shouldn't to begin with. If the entire motor was basically replaced, maybe it's a computer and/or electrical issue.

 

[WaffleStomping]

That makes sense. At one point in the troubleshooting, they said it seemed to start the rough idle on a cold start after it switched from using the pre-program control to using the sensors (around 1 min 30 seconds from starting). The ECU and engine wiring harness are about the two things they haven’t replaced.

 

[boominXplorer]

The closer those miles add up to out of warranty the better they feel. I'd pick it up well before the service department closes and make sure I'd bring it back the same day after "driving" it saying the issue is still there.

When Ford service gets stumped they will try anything to get the vehicle out the shop and let you rack those miles up. Be persistent and make them get it right before accepting it.