Rear brake line?

[Zekester]

Hi all.
My 97 Mountaineer is leaking brake fluid from the metal line before it goes in to the hose junction on the drivers side rear.

This line is wrapped in metal coil.

Is this a 3/16” line, and does it run the entire length of the frame right up to the master cylinder?

Thanks

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

You dont have to change the entire metal line. If the line is rusty, best bet is to cut off the rusty part and replace with new steel line, join the new line to the existing brake line with a double flare union, some say use a compression fitting but I dont recommend it, learn how to make good double flare for the steel brake line with the proper tool and your all set.

 

[Zekester]

You dont have to change the entire metal line. If the line is rusty, best bet is to cut off the rusty part and replace with new steel line, join the new line to the existing brake line with a double flare union, some say use a compression fitting but I dont recommend it, learn how to make good double flare for the steel brake line with the proper tool and your all set.

thanks, 97

I think a compression fitting is illegal here in Pa, so il look in to the union. It has that damn coil around it though.

 

[koda2000]

You dont have to change the entire metal line. If the line is rusty, best bet is to cut off the rusty part and replace with new steel line, join the new line to the existing brake line with a double flare union, some say use a compression fitting but I dont recommend it, learn how to make good double flare for the steel brake line with the proper tool and your all set.

^This, and do not use compression fittings on brake lines. They're not meant to handle the pressure that can be generated during a panic stop (which can be around 1100-1200 PSI). I believe the line size is 3/16". If you've never double-flared line before buy a little extra to practice on. You can buy replacement line (with fittings attached) in many different lengths, from few inches to several feet long. You can borrow a flaring set at most auto parts stores and you'll also need a pipe cutter. I've re-plumbed many brake systems. It's pretty easy once you have the knack for it.

Start by following the damaged line back toward the front of the vehicle to determine how much new line you'll need. usually a 3-4 foot length will do the job. The auto parts store will also have the brass unions required to joint the old and new pieces of line. The wire coiled around the OE line is to protect it from rocks and other debris, but is not really necessary. I think some stores sell the line with the wire coil on it, but it's rather expensive.

 

[Zekester]

thanks, koda

will that pipe cutter work on the coiled line?

 

[imp]

thanks, koda

will that pipe cutter work on the coiled line?

@Zekester

Works but not very neatly! Will chew things up quite nicely. After removing the leaky section, see if the outside coiled wrap may be pulled off leaving the inside tube. If not, well, .......****. If not, how to connect new tubing to the old existing ends with coil around them? @koda2000 ??? imp

 

[96eb96]

I'm going to suggest replacing ALL brake lines. Once one is rusty, and leaking, the others aren't too far behind. Plan on it in if you are keeping the truck. The spring is rock guard and unless you offroad it is not needed.

 

[koda2000]

thanks, koda

will that pipe cutter work on the coiled line?

Yes, but you'll have to peel off the coil where you want to cut the line. The coil is not attached to the line, it just wraps around it.

 

[imp]

Yes, but you'll have to peel off the coil where you want to cut the line. The coil is not attached to the line, it just wraps around it.

@koda2000
That is a process I've never had to do in 60+ years of messing with cars! I have encountered leaks not with protective coil over the tubing, but rather vibration-caused wear-through of the tube where Ford so wisely used an unprotected steel clamp to secure the tube to the center section. imp

 

[J_C]

I'm going to suggest replacing ALL brake lines. Once one is rusty, and leaking, the others aren't too far behind. Plan on it in if you are keeping the truck. The spring is rock guard and unless you offroad it is not needed.

I second this. Even if you don't want to do all at once, for the time being I'd at least string a new line from front to rear, and since my rear over-axle line leaked first, I would replace that one at the same time along with the soft hose/junction that connects the two.

Yes it runs the length of the frame, is held in plastic clips (just pop in and out, you don't have to open the clip, don't even need to see it to feel with your fingers that you got the line in them (easy to do)) and these clips have an unused position in them so you can leave the old line on the vehicle and put the new line in the empty clip position.

It is easier if you take off the rock guard under the tank and the cross member piece right next to it. They're just plate metal with a few bolts.

The hardest part when I did it was trying to make good double flares with an Autozone loaner flare tool. I practiced but couldn't do it well enough to satisfy me so I bought an Eastwood 31244 flare tool. The price of that tool has gone up, I think I saw same thing under a different brand, cheaper on amazon a few months ago.

As far as pre-cut and flared pieces, I couldn't find any long enough to do the front to rear run, but did use a ready made piece for the axle left-to-right run, was an Autozone AGS PAX-351, 3/16" x 51". It is slightly shorter than the factory piece so the bends around the differential are not as pronounced but the next longer size would have left excess slack, more bends to get rid of slack... either would work.

 

[Mike65]

When I had to replace the brake line that runs to the rear axle on my 00 Ranger 4x4 I purchased the OTC 6502 brake line flaring kit from Amazon. I have done several of the double flare brake lines on my 00 Ranger 4x4 & the 2 lines on the rear axle that go out to the wheel cylinders on my 69 Mustang & they have all worked fine. If you have an old vehicle & plan on keeping it this is a "must have" tool to have. Here is a link to the one I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6502-Mas...argid=aud-802037562948:pla-524038802636&psc=1

 

[J5hort]

Had same issue on my 95 Sport. Check line up to around master cylinder to make sure there is no rust. If no sign or rust or leak use a small tubing cutter to cut line. See links. I did this just under about the driver door on a nice straight run. Just pop line out of clips all along frame. You will need to cut/unwrap the coil wrapping. Remove fitting at back and take it and line to a local parts store to match up. You can get a replacement line with a fitting on both ends. But a union and extra fitting to slide on where you cut. You will need a brake line flaring tool. You can borrow/rent from parts store (See link). Brake line is pretty cheap. I'd recommend getting straight line vs coiled. You can also get a brake line bending tool so you wont kink the line. Also tip: If you need to get rusted fitting off on rear, clip the line flush and use a socket. Without a line wrench you'll probabl strip the old fitting. Probably ok as you do not need to reuse, but just easier to get off.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-32975-Quarters-Tubing-Cutter/dp/B000LDGNCU
Brake & Air Line Doublv Flaring Tool 10pc Kit Water Gas Line Automotivr Plumbing | eBay