Adventure trailer build thread. | Page 24 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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Seems this thread is dead, but I'm still here with another boring update!!

Fridge slide has returned from the powder coating shop. Looks fantastic! So glad I went ahead and splurged on this item. :) The powder is Hammertone Black, 60% gloss.

I made the base to lift it up off the trailer floor, to clear the cabins side door that this will exit from. I ended up going with a 1.25" lift using a sheet of 3/4" & 1/2" Baltic Birch Ply. I wanted an extra 1/4" height to let the slider's lock nuts to clear the door opening better. (Remember last post telling the width widens as the opening rises). The top gained 1/2" width because of these locknuts.

After cutting the ply (3 pcs), I countersunk 16 (ea) 1" R2 head SS screws and fastened the two layers from the bottom. Sanded all edges flush, then stained, and 3 coats of spar urethane gloss to match the trailer floor.

slide wood base 1.jpg

slide wood base 2.jpg

slide wood base 3.jpg


After assembling and adjusting the slides back on the unit, it was held in place to the base with a couple wood screws/washers to mark and drill the 3/8" mounting bolt holes. I had to drill a couple holes into the base's top latch pc, to be able to get a drill bit from the top, thru the base, and into the trailer floor. Hated to do that after the powder coating, but I painted the fresh drill holes to match with some good old Rustoleum. I swapped out the slides 1/2" bolts with 3/4" bolts, and then cut off the extending bolts flush with the locknut. 1/2" bolt just didn't make it past the locknuts nylon by 1/16" or less. Bummer. All good now!

Fridge slide coated closed.jpg

Fridge slide coated open 1.jpg

Fridge slide coated open 2.jpg


It is now ready for install in the trailer. Will get to it soon. Pictures don't do this any justice. It's way bigger than it looks, and it looks way better in person. I'm very happy with myself on this item. (pats self on back)
 



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I like it, all of it. You do great work, get it done and then go enjoy it.
 






Thanks Don. Easier said than done unfortunately.

Still have the axles to sort out. Still have a hurt tow rig to contend with. Still have a few more items on the build list, for this to do. Still have limited funds for both projects.

It will get out there eventually, but one thing at a time, as I can handle it.
 






Drilled the holes for the 3/8"x3" SS bolts, and mounted the slide to the floor. Large fender washers on the underside bolt heads.

I placed the 70 quart Coleman Marine cooler on it, and it fit no problem. I then found that the 54 quart Ozark trail (Yeti knockoff) is the same size as the 70 quart. The 54 quart is at least 5 times heavier, so I used it for the mock up. A 54 quart fridge I'm looking at is the same size as this cooler, and since there is some room to spare, I might go for a larger 65 quart dual zone fridge/freezer.

The 1" over extension slides worked out perfect. The lid can be opened fully with room to spare next to the cabin. This thing is solid. Smooth operation opening & closing, and the lock latch works flawlessly. :)

All the way in the cabin Dr side

cooler in 2.jpg


Pulled out view from front of trailer

cooler on slide out 1.jpg


Pulled out view from rear of trailer

cooler on slide out 2.jpg


I put 100 lbs of weight in the cooler. When fully extended, the slide doesn't show any signs of disturbance from the weight on it at all. I believe this can be called a successful mod.

Spindle removal, weld inspection, then Axle alignment shims install is next on the to do list.
 






Water, water, everywhere, but not a drop to...........Scratch that.

So I feel like a dumbass right now. I didn't test the water system out before I built the rear kitchen stuffs. I decided to test it out today. Thought it would take like 30 mins. Uh, yeah right.

1 hr searching for the dang hose end quick disconnect for a long hose. Gave up, and just used the short coil line.
30 mins to set up and throw 10 gals of water in it. 25 mins searching for the hose inline on/off valve I recently purchased.
15 mins to remember I disconnected the pumps power at the circuit breaker.
30 mins to repair the air line that blew from the compressor to the wall plumbing. Had to find a barbed brass doohickey.
Powered up, primed the pump, and let her rip.

The good:
Awesome pressure from this system!! I mean wow! This is going to be great!

The bad:
The hoses leak at the connections. Drip, drip, drip....

30 mins to empty the rear kitchen I stocked up with gear, and remove the entire thing, one section at a time.
Thank the maker, I decided to add that access door on the box wall! I can reach in and tighten the clamps from it.

30 minute lunch break, and back to it. 3:15 hrs into it so far. LMAO!!

Back to work!!!! Will update after. :D

Edit:
5 hours later, 2 trips to Lowes, and all the interior leaks are fixed. Had to redo the line from the filter to the bulkhead as nothing was working. The plastic 3/4" elbow just wouldn't seal, no matter what I did. Ended up with a 90* brass elbow for a water spigot. New hose, and put female 3/4" brass on both ends. I tried garden hose quick disco's, but they leaked. lol

Ended up taking the lid off just to make it easier on myself. Since it was apart, I coated the wall ends that showed past the drawers, with red Mahogany poly shade. Will put another coat on soon, and let it set up overnight before I put the kitchen back in.

30 mins = 8+ hours for me. Was cool to see the great water pressure. Glad I got a pressure adjustable handle for it. Would be able to go thru 30 gals in 10 mins at full blast. Now to find that "Safe place" I put that quick disco at.

It's hell getting old. CRS set's in fast.
 






That's standard procedure for me it seems. Nothing goes smoothly.
 






LOL, your telling me!

I pulled the tape from the new stain/poly coatings, put the kitchen back together, and seen I needed to go about 1/4" farther with the stain. Yup, left a 1/4" bare wood along the kitchen front. lol I mean all the wood has clear coat on it, so it's not bare, just not stained on the insides.

Broke out the stain poly coat again, got that done. Packed the gear back in the kitchen. I added a rubber locking handle used on Yeti type coolers to the drawers. Extra security to hold it together, and took out a tiny bit of play I had in the bottom drawer slide out. Nice & tight now.

Still haven't found that "Safe storage place" for the quick hose disco. FML
 






Let's hang a mirror
needs to mark wall with pencil. Pencil lead breaks. Walk to garage pencil sharpener. Start with the elbow motion and one screw holding it to workbench breaks off. Mess with extracting for 15 minutes, find new screw. Grab cordless drill, oops battery is dead. plug in charger, decide a different slot on the power strip would be better for charger, pull charger plug out of power strip which splits in half and spits out brass guts...
 






Ditto, I began moving old wheel/tires to clean and reorganize, then the power goes out while breaking for lunch. Go out and see a flat tire, begin adding air, move car, R&R nail, air pump leaks too much at hose, find other pump, battery dead, ...
Okay, now I've had supper, time to finish tire washing, then mow, can't trim for darkness. Where did the day go?
 












No spare funds for this thing lately, but I wanted to do something as the rains have stopped me from doing outside stuff.

I am planning on installing a 40 amp 500 watt DC to DC charge converter to this thing down the road. I needed a good spot close to the batteries to mount it. Hmm....

I had a half sheet of expanded metal left over, and decided it would make a perfect mount wall for items, such as the Charge converter. Measure, cut, prime, paint. Mount to underside of tongue box lid using the center supports, with right angle brackets, bent at a 90* on one side. Drill out holes, and install small rivnuts. Screws and SS fender washers on the brackets, and utilize the holes made for the light bracket for the bottom of the expanded metal. When the time comes to install the converter, I will move the light and change the brackets to more washer/bolts. Couldn't center it as the holes in the expanded, wouldn't line up to the lower holes. Ah well, I can trim it down later.

Expanded dc dc mount.jpg


So, while I had the expanded metal out, I decided to make a divider wall inside next to the fridge slide. I plan on using that lower space next to the fridge for the tent accessories. Annex room, and cold weather hood mainly. I will use a small cargo net to hold it all in place so none of it will hit the inside of the door.

Pass side view.

Expanded wall pass view 1.jpg

Expanded wall pass view 2.jpg


Mounting bolts to frame. Other side is the same

Expanded wall mount bolts.jpg


Thinking of building a slide out on the shelf above to pull out the dr side door, and using that for food storage, and defrost cooler. If I freeze meats, I can place a meal at a time in the defrost cooler in the morning, and have it ready to cook by dinner. This way, I can free up fridge space side for drinks and what not. Yeah, I think too much sometimes. lol
 






Rarely does one have money and time at the same time.
I'm impressed that the desire component is still strong.

Your an inspiration. and I'll always be jealous of your fabrication skills.
 






Thank you kindly sir!

I'm not married, and still single, but I'm in a committed relationship......with this trailer!

Still wants me to spend on it, still demands attention, and gets jealous, if I spend to much time on the rigs. Sounds like a relationship to me. :banghead:

Side note, Dono, your post was the first email notification I received since June 12. Wonder if the recent work done to the server fixed that issue? Hmm...
 






I'm not sure about the notifications. They seem 'spotty'.
Sometimes I don't get them (I didn't get one for your last post). Sometimes I do get them.
 












I did a few things since you last seen it. :D

I know it's hard for someone that fabricates a lot, to read posts like these in this thread. Been doing my best to explain things for others who are building, or is interested in building one of these things. They just might find something useful here. Been trying to direct traffic here from the Overland community, in Hope's they join up, and build an explorer too.
 


















In the spirit of free to me mods, I decided to remount the wind deflector for easier use of the solar panel.

I had it mounted to the trailer cabin front wall, and in order to deploy the solar panel slide, the tent rack had to be lifted to clear the wind deflector. Originally thought no big deal, as I really wouldn't use it until after tent was setup. I decided against that foolish line of reasoning.

Made up a new set of aluminum brackets using 1.5" flat stock, and a pc of alum angle to brace the deflector from behind. Drilled a few holes into the alum channel frame I made for the panel, and bolted this bit of kit together with the same stainless hardware used before.

So now it is attached to the solar panel itself, and can slide out when ever I want to use it. Campsite, parked in piggly wiggly, driveway, on a cliff having lunch, etc...

Top view of brackets.

Deflector brackets top view.jpg


Bottom view of brackets.

Deflector brackets bottom view.jpg


Closed.

deflector closed.jpg


Open.

Deflector full open.jpg


While I was working on it, a light bulb went off. I "think" I finally figured a way to make a tilt bracket work for the panel. It's going to need it more so now with that deflector there casting a slight shadow.

Still no word back from Timbren about the axles. I think it's about time to remind them about me. lol
 



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Continuing with the free to me mods....

Back when I installed the doors weather stripping, I ran 3 feet short for the rear door. It takes about 12 feet of it. I added this on the to do list for later. I have looked all over for this stuff by the foot, but even tho some places sell this same weather strip by the foot, they had 10 lf or 25 lf rolls of it. 10 too short, and 25 way too much. 25 lf of it is around $50. So I procrastinated on it thinking I might find it by the actual foot some day.

Well today I was looking for something, when I stumbled upon some weather strip, I had from a 94 Limited Explorer, I bought for donor parts a few years back. All the weather strip on it was in great shape, so I kept it. Guess what? The rear hatch strip is over 15 lf long. This stuff is bigger than what I had been using, and made a bit different, but the principle method of attachment is the same. I tried it, and it works. :)

Now this trailer has a little pc of Ford Explorer on it. I don't know if that will jink it, or give it good fortune. LOL

At least the door has a good seal on it now. The Ford door strip actually has dual bulbs on it. I never noticed that before. The large hollow bulb and a smaller bulb. The smaller bulb pushes against the door frame perfectly, and the big bulb gives it a good extra seal. Corners are a bit crinkled on the big bulb, but that's fine, as the smaller bulb actually seals it. I had to trim the bottom & pass side big bulb, to allow the kitchen to slide out smoothly. It works for now.

Rear door weather strip on.jpg
 






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