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410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

confirmed they were to send 601-16 which is a 11/32" retainer with a 7 degree slope
What they sent it 611-16 which is 11/32" but has a 10 degree slope

So now I need to find out if the factory retainer is correct, sure fits properly
EDIT:
Factory retainers are indeed 7 degrees so they have the proper fit

More Information for SEALED POWER VK115

SOB!!! Glad I do not have to press the springs again can move forward.....

@CDW6212R
Cam specs:
Xtreme Energy XE264HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Lift: .512"/.512"
Duration: 264°/270°
Lobe Separation Angle: 114°
RPM Range: 1500-5500
 



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Have you used the 264 as well as the 258 cam? Curious to hear your thoughts on both of you have.
 






That's good, the .512 lift is not much over stock(.450ish). So the PTV clearance is not going to be a problem, and if the springs are made for that mild lift, you're good to go now.
 






Thanks fellas!
Yes these springs were matched per comp cams we are running stock rockers after I got tired of trying to make the pedestal mount rollers not make so much noise....
I have only run the E303 cam in these trucks prior to this with very good results. This should be a nice improvement over stock and the E cam.
This cam should go perfectly for our build here, headers, mild cam, refreshed low mile stock engine...the goal here is to build the ranger. We can always come back and do a stroker, crate engine, supercharge, tunes, more power, etc etc.
After a crazy two weeks (kids back to school, elevator work) I have cleared my schedule for the next 4 days to spend time with the project :)
 












I'm excited about the final result. Most of the ranger V8 builds I have read, it was a modular V8 on the 02 up rangers.
 






:popcorn::usa::usa:
 






OKAY here we go, been spending my spare time with the engine, working carefully and slowly I have sealed up many a 302 in my day.

I take everything I have learned, combine it with the best parts we can get and well.....let the pictures do the talking

factory next to comp cams valve springs:
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How we got there, first install spring compressor then give the little stock spring cup a smack so the keepers come free of their bond to the spring cup
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Lift the valve very carefully
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Magnet to grab the valve locks
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stock spring removed, access to the stock valve seals they pull off easily
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ALL parts soak in unicorn tears before install
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new PTFE valve seals come with a plastic install "condom" works well enough, by the time you do the 16th seal it is ready for the trash can. This protects the delicate seal as it passes over the valve stem and indent for the keepers
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The new seal gets pressed on in two stages and very carefully by hand, I had to improvise since I did not have the "special tool"

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fully seated
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new bits in place + compressor
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both heads done
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Bring on the CAM!!
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Only the BEST lubricants and sealants get used for engine assembly
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time for lifters and lifter valley
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USA!! USA!! (cheering)
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Cyl #1 at TDC, line up the dots

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Lifters in place, oiling holes face the center of the valley. Lifter retainers in place, lifter valley spider torqued down
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Time to chase all threads for the LIM, thread SEALANT for the front two bolts
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Surfaces cleaned and prepped, new Felpro blue in place with some permatex at the corners
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Timing cover cleaned and prepped, new Fel pro front main seal installed with Anaerobic sealant
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All timing cover and water pump bolts threads cleaned and chased

Oil pump checked, cleaned, pickup tube cleaned, new pickup gasket, pan cleaned and ready for install
LIM and TIMING cover in place
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next install the headers, oil filter mount, balancer and a few other goodies then she is ready to drop in.
 












@vroomzoomboom China wall? LMFAO
Is that 5.0 lingo for the lower intake front and rear? With these felpro blue I found you do not need much, only in key spots
The days of laying a 1/4 bead on the block are over! LOL
Weird thing is you cannot buy the Felpro engine set on Rockauto anymore I had to add them all to the cart individually?!?! only Victor Reinz and Mahle sets avail...
I have used VR and Mahle on the pushrod 4.0 and they are also some nice gaskets.
I love the latest fel pro sets for the 302 so that is what I wanted to use here..... wee shall see if I did it right! hahahahaha


There is silicon :) In the corners of the felpro blue LIM gaskets, underneath and on top, I even use a light coat of blue around the timing cover and water pump ports.
I am using the best permatex you can get, there is some in the corners on the oil pan gasket as well
very light coats just to close the gaps or make up for the imperfections left from casting, solve the common factory leak spots.
I like to work very clean, use just enough....

each surface is scraped, then scuffed with scotchbrite pad and pb blaster, then wiped clean, then finally prepped with part cleaner, let sit, apply soft coat of gasket maker, let sit, join the pieces, let sit, torque in sequence....so far so good! I use a dental pick to get all of the old gasket out of the valleys and cracks.....
 






Get your Sunday morning eyes ready for some candy

Engine is ready to drop in. I will be measuring for the correct push rod length today
Then clean the trucks engine bay, clean the transmission, stab it to the engine then drop the whole she bang into the 07

The good stuff:
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Header install bits
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Autolite plugs gapped to 0.054" installed with copper anti seize on the threads then the headers go on.

Get your 3/8" wrench out, installing TMH is difficult, even on the engine stand.
There are 3-4 places where wrench to bolt clearance is very tight, you must be patient, tighten the header down a little at a time on each bolt. There are 3 places where I had to use the 6 sided bolts provided by Robert, there is no other way to fit the 12 point wrench on the bolt head.

Again each bolt and bolt hole is chased with a tap and dye, all parts cleaned thoroughly before painted/ installed

Each bolt gets a healthy dose of loctite, again provided by Robert (TMH).
I use Percy's or Mr Gasket soft stacked aluminum gaskets here they really seal up the TMH well, worth the extra $$$ (took me 3-4 attempts to seal them up on my BII back in 05)
Live and learn

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The real Eddie Money (musician) just died last week, he was 70 (RIP)
Our Eddie Money (Ford Ranger enthusiast) is alive and well and he does not mind a "stock look" to his engine bay so no Seattle Seahawks themed engine here with tons of blue and green, just a classic good looking 302

I will add some custom touches as we go along, many of these parts look really nice in black satin.

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Ordered 2001 Explorer flow matched set of bosch injectors from Ebay.
Have a 2001 5.0 fuel rail, pulse damper, and engine feed line sitting on the bench in front of me.
Removed the engine oil cooler and replaced with a 98-01 style filter mount
I will be using a late 97/98 PCM / sensors GT40p (external EGR) with the 01 (returnless) style fuel rail. the coolant and oil pressure sensors will come from the 07 engine.
The 98 transmission will get new shift solenoids, refreshed updated sonnax valve body (Thanks Brett!) it already has the updated internal hard wiring harness.
This is what I call a "REFRESHED" low mile 302 ready to motivate this Ranger for years to come.

Once the engine /trans are bolted down it is time to begin the wiring
Wiring the drivetrain, 4406e shift system, seats, keyless entry, stereo, camera's, etc will all happen together.
Plan is to integrate any new wiring into the factory 07 power distribution and body harness.
 












That looks so freakin awesome!!! I love it!! Mr 410fortune you are the best!! I am truly enjoying season one of "Game of Rangers" lol. Best story ever!!!
 






Looking good! I'm jealous - my weekend included discovering a wrecked piston on my new rebuild (oil starvation issue). Trying to determine my new course of action...
 






dang!!! what happened to your rebuilt engine??? Did you see/hear it coming?
Sorry to hear that
 






My whole engine swap has been an odyssey of woe.

Finished the conversion to V8 with no significant hurdles, including a good rebuild and putting in the XE258 I'd ordered. When I fired it up, it never ran right. Chased down a bunch of possible explanations. Pulled the lower intake and realized I'd screwed up pushrod length so got that all sorted. Still didn't run right (low vacuum, no power off idle, etc). Tested everything I could, spoke to the machine shop, let a local shop I trust look at it, and even spoke to Comp Cams. Ultimately we all decided it was cam related. I tore the front cover off the engine and cranked up the body enough to sneak the cam out below the core support, only to find out that Amazon had shipped me a Trick Flow stage 2 cam in the original Comp Cams box. Amazon made good on that even though it was months later and shipped me the correct cam.

Apparently during the mess of getting the cam swapped with the engine in the chassis, I at some point left the front edge of the oil pan uncovered for a little while. About 800 miles into running the engine after sorting everything, I lost oil pressure running down the interstate. Finished pulling the engine a couple of weeks ago and found the pickup totally clogged with tiny bits of leaves. A couple of bearings looked rough but the crank itself seems okay. Thought that was going to be the end of it until I pulled the pistons yesterday morning.
Piston.png
 






DANG! Leaves!!
How in the hell did they ship a trick flow cam in a comp cam box??
Snowball of bad fortune
Sorry to see all of that
 



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I'll have to post a picture of the pickup. Before I dove into the engine, I was concerned the problem wouldn't be obvious - all I had to go on was a pressure gauge that would drop to zero on the interstate (which I thought was a gauge problem initially) and some bottom end noise. As soon as the pan came off it was clear what had gone wrong.

Good question on the cam mixup. The only explanation I can come up with is that someone bought the Comp unit from Amazon and returned their TFS cam in the original box, then Amazon stuck it back on the shelf without checking it carefully. It had all the original instructions, stickers, etc packaged neatly in the box. I never thought to look any closer than that. Degreeing the cam would have made it obvious, but I was trying to keep things simple.

Lots of expensive and time consuming learning experiences.
 






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