Cranks, pops, no start.... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Cranks, pops, no start....

Expl01

Member
Joined
June 16, 2011
Messages
12
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Location
Southern Cal
City, State
Long Beach, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
01Expl XLT 4.0V6 2 WD 4dr
Well, it just died. It was sitting there idling while I shut the gate. It stumbled a few times, then in about 3 sec, it quit. Will not re-start, but when I try to crank it, it cranks strong, as usual, it actually “starts” for maybe 1 or 2 hits/cylinder firings, then stops firing. It still cranks, but will not fire.

So it seems that the battery, starter motor, etc, all still work fine, but then it stops getting fuel or ignition.

The fuel pump is ok, b/c there is pressure at the test port.

If I squirt some ether/starting fluid in the intake, it will “run” a few seconds on that, but then stop. So it must have spark, but it is not getting fuel from the injectors. And it has to be all injectors, not just 1 or 2.

So my first thought was dirt in the fuel, since I had just filled the tank & drove home.

Then it felt like maybe a sensor is shutting off the injectors.

The inertia switch has not been triggered / it doesn’t appear to be popped up. What else can cut off the injectors?

I have tried all the checks I can find, and everything seems to check out ok.

Any ideas? 2001 XLT, 4.0 V6, A/T, A/C, 2 wd, 210,000 miles, trans rebuilt @ 160k.

Call me Confused in California.
 



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Well, it just died. It was sitting there idling while I shut the gate. It stumbled a few times, then in about 3 sec, it quit. Will not re-start, but when I try to crank it, it cranks strong, as usual, it actually “starts” for maybe 1 or 2 hits/cylinder firings, then stops firing. It still cranks, but will not fire.

So it seems that the battery, starter motor, etc, all still work fine, but then it stops getting fuel or ignition.

The fuel pump is ok, b/c there is pressure at the test port.

If I squirt some ether/starting fluid in the intake, it will “run” a few seconds on that, but then stop. So it must have spark, but it is not getting fuel from the injectors. And it has to be all injectors, not just 1 or 2.

So my first thought was dirt in the fuel, since I had just filled the tank & drove home.

Then it felt like maybe a sensor is shutting off the injectors.

The inertia switch has not been triggered / it doesn’t appear to be popped up. What else can cut off the injectors?

I have tried all the checks I can find, and everything seems to check out ok.

Any ideas? 2001 XLT, 4.0 V6, A/T, A/C, 2 wd, 210,000 miles, trans rebuilt @ 160k.

Call me Confused in California.
Need a scan tool to check it , The crank shaft sensor or camshaft sensor & map sensor, make sure your intake air cleaner snorkel has no air leaks , provided that you have good fuel pressure.
 






Well, I did buy an OBD II scanner some years back, but I have never seen it show a code. Not sure if it works or if my car has not actually set a code. But I did buy it used from my close personal friend "Craig", who has a "list", so it must be good, si? I ran it 2x, but no codes showed up.
P1250685.JPG
 






Just having fuel pressure isn't enough...there needs to be fuel pressure > the minimum spec.

Have you tried pounding on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet, and then seeing if that helps it to start?
 






Just having fuel pressure isn't enough...there needs to be fuel pressure > the minimum spec.

Have you tried pounding on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet, and then seeing if that helps it to start?
This right here.
When I V8 swapped my ranger it would crank and not start. Fuel pump was new right before I got the truck. Went nuts checking wiring, and relays. Finally hit the tank with a rubber mallet. Fired right up.
 






@Expl01

Start simple - when was the last time in 210,000 total miles that you changed the fuel filter?
 






YOU HAVE A SOHC ENGINE WITH 210,000 ..the SOHC known problem prone timing chain components probably failed/ skipped teeth....I would pursue seeing if this is it... and then if so figure out what replacement vehicle to get...
Not to be a debbie-downer.....but....

"Pops" - usually a sound of timing off.
 






Yea I was thinking the same POP sound in the engine or exhaust??
was this pop metallic in nature
Or just a sputtering ?

Tho I never heard of one breaking guides idling unless the tensioner went bad

Sounds like a weak or dead fuel pump to me
 






@Expl01

Just observin'

In SUBJECT LINE the OP writes:
"Cranks, pops, no start...."

In First Sentence of Post, the OP writes:
"Well, it just died. It was sitting there idling while I shut the gate. It stumbled a few times, then in about 3 sec, it quit."
 






YOU HAVE A SOHC ENGINE WITH 210,000 ..the SOHC known problem prone timing chain components probably failed/ skipped teeth....I would pursue seeing if this is it... and then if so figure out what replacement vehicle to get...
Not to be a debbie-downer.....but....

"Pops" - usually a sound of timing off.

My though exactly. The "pop" makes me think timing on a SOHC. A clogged filter doesn't usually give trouble at idle. Lots of diagnostics need to be done to id the source of the problem. If it's skipped time your engine is likely now junk. The first test should be the easiest, check your fuel pressure (with a gauge), You should see about 65 PSI for your model year. Next check for spark, the do a compression test on all cylinders to check for bent valves. You can remove the valve covers and set the crank pulley to cyl #1 TDC on the compression stroke and then check the slots in both camshafts. They should be parallel to the angle of the heads. If not, you've jumped time and the engine is not worth repairing. Reman engines are expensive even if you're doing all the work yourself.
 






Pop or backfire ?
It starts on starting fluid then dies
When is starts is it rattling like a diesel engine
Or sound normal

We need more info

I would check fuel pressure first
 












Oops Pops?

Ok, first, Many Thanks to everyone for all the comments, advice & suggestions!

@fast_dave

Thanks for pointing out the inconsistency about the “popping” sound.

When I wrote the subject line, I was just trying to think of a catchy “headline” to help grab attention & get eyeballs on the problem for ideas, etc. Using “pops” was a poor choice of words, my fault. The description in the text is more accurate. I would not say that it ever “popped” in that sense, so a big “Sorry” to all who focused on that.

The engine did sort of stumble for a couple seconds, but didn’t really “pop”. Now, if I spray a bit of ether in the intake, it will run smoothly for a few sec til it runs out of ether, then stop again. Since it seems to run & sound [to my ear] “smoothly”, I am hoping to rule out the more serious jumped time/bent valves/low compression sort of things. I am still hoping /thinking that it could be bad/dirty/contaminated fuel.

lobo411 & H2opro, Thanks for the reminder about the pounding on the fuel tank trick. I had heard about this years ago, but forgot to try it on this problem. Having now tried it with a hard plastic mallet & beating the snot out of the thing to just short of denting it, it seems to have had no effect, although I did enjoy relieving some frustration.

fast_dave “Start simple - when was the last time in 210,000 total miles that you changed the fuel filter?”

About 2 years ago I had a batch of crud [a technical term] in the fuel tank, so I pulled the tank & actually took it to a radiator shop for a flush out [just to be sure] & then replaced the pump, screen & filter.
_____________________________________________________________

Plan now is to check fuel pressure & also pull a tank hose to get a large enough fuel sample to see if there is enough dirt to be seen. Also snagged a new fuel filter. Will change filters after first pressure test & then see if there is any pressure change after the filter change.

I scored a fuel pressure tester from O/Reilly’s [they’re closest], but then was interrupted & taken off task this weekend due to family events. Will report as soon as I have more info. Again, thanks to you all for the support & suggestions.
_____________________________________________________________
 






Good call to check fuel pressure first
should be 64psi or more on a 01
 






I'm having some of the same similar problem with my 02 4.0 4x4 EB. Changed fuel pump only because I noticed the pressure in the line wasn't to great. Changed PCV valve, was oil soaked and not rattling. Change solenoid block for spark, was cracked at both ends. On cold starts it seems to run ok but when it get to Operating temp it starts to run like crap. Throwing p1152 code. I can hear an small vacuum leak on the firewall side of engine but cant locate it, hearing a hissing sound. Once warmed up it stalls out when putting into any gear unless I have the rpms up in between 1000- 1500 range just so it wont stall. As long as rpms are above 1500 it purrs like a kitten, any lower it acts like its starving for fuel. Any ideas.
 












Remove the spark plugs, pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine. do you hear ticking noises?
I'll have to try that tomorrow when I get out of work. I'm assuming your thinking maybe out of time.
 






I'll have to try that tomorrow when I get out of work. I'm assuming your thinking maybe out of time.
I was actually referring to the OP question. Your plugs and relay should remain for now.
In your case a common place for vacuum leak and hiss sound could be the brake booster, or, the grey plastic fitting going into it. There is also a grommet for it to fit into. A wiggle test on that vacuum connection point might change the sound which would be a tell tale sign.

P1152 is a code for running rich on bank 2 ( driver side) , a vacuum leak would surely cause a lean condition --code . This is sort of confusing. I wonder if you have an injector which is stuck "on" , or, a wiring problem possibly. A short to ground on one of the injector wires will cause it to spray continuously, instead of pulsing on time.
 






I was actually referring to the OP question. Your plugs and relay should remain for now.
In your case a common place for vacuum leak and hiss sound could be the brake booster, or, the grey plastic fitting going into it. There is also a grommet for it to fit into. A wiggle test on that vacuum connection point might change the sound which would be a tell tale sign.

P1152 is a code for running rich on bank 2 ( driver side) , a vacuum leak would surely cause a lean condition --code . This is sort of confusing. I wonder if you have an injector which is stuck "on" , or, a wiring problem possibly. A short to ground on one of the injector wires will cause it to spray continuously, instead of pulsing on time.
These issues started 2 Saturday's ago out of the blue. Which is why I'm stumped
 



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I can hear an small vacuum leak on the firewall side of engine but cant locate it, hearing a hissing sound
A good old school way off pin pointing vac leaks is spray some starting fluid (ether) with hose tip on can for precision spotting....spay around hissing area - when idle rises - blamo- you found your vacuum leak. Get that resolved and then seek out rich condition issue....
 






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