Quick lift install problems up front please help | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Quick lift install problems up front please help

Mrobs146

Active Member
Joined
November 27, 2017
Messages
66
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2
City, State
Westland, Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 xls 4x4
I get my top bolts to line up but the lower bolt that goes through the control arm is off what do I do about this how can I shift it?
 



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Can you be more specific?

Are you saying the holes line up but you can’t get the bolt through?

Or are you having problems getting the strut into the lower control arm?

Have you separated the upper ball joint from the spindle?
 






Can you be more specific?

Are you saying the holes line up but you can’t get the bolt through?

Or are you having problems getting the strut into the lower control arm?

Have you separated the upper ball joint from the spindle?
I have it completely apart doing the whole front suspension and now putting it back together. So as I put the strut into place at the top where the three bolt go in I can tighten that down but then the spot where the bolt goes through on the lower control arm it don’t line up at all to get the bolt through the control arm I’m wondering how I can get that to line up the strut instead just gonna turn to adjust
 












Try Turing what 180 the whole strut? Then the top bolts won’t line up
 






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That’s what happens when I put it in with the top bolts bottom won’t line up
 






The extended metal sleeve of the bottom mount should face the rear. In the picture it looks like it’s towards the front.

Yes, turn just the bottom half of the strut. install the top so you have minimal turning to do.

I don’t think it would matter, but are they labeled left or right?
 






The extended metal sleeve of the bottom mount should face the rear. In the picture it looks like it’s towards the front.

Yes, turn just the bottom half of the strut. install the top so you have minimal turning to do.

I don’t think it would matter, but are they labeled left or right?
No only the rears are fronts the same. The bottom of it is welded solid it won’t turn
 






The entire lower body of the strut will turn, not just the mount. Be sure to turn them so the spring stays in its mount.

The extended metal sleeve on the bottom mount MUST face the rear of the vehicle or it will not go in the control arm. When I did my spacers & Moog struts I had to turn mine about 30 degrees.
 






I got it had to use a spring compressor and shift the top. I also replaced upper control arms, lower ball joints, outer tie rods, cv shafts, and wheel hubs. Now when I drive it I have a vibration, and aren’t the tires up front supposed to spin freely when the front end is lifted and not spin than catch?
 






Let's start simple, did you have the truck aligned yet?

Did you use a Torque Wrench and tighten everything to spec's?

The wheel won't 'free spin' like a trailer's wheel, there is still the resistance of the front driveline, new hub bearings, etc.

When you say 'not spin and catch', are you saying that the wheel will spin and abruptly stop, or that it just slows down real fast?
 






Let's start simple, did you have the truck aligned yet?

Did you use a Torque Wrench and tighten everything to spec's?

The wheel won't 'free spin' like a trailer's wheel, there is still the resistance of the front driveline, new hub bearings, etc.

When you say 'not spin and catch', are you saying that the wheel will spin and abruptly stop, or that it just slows down real fast?
I did torque everything down to specs have not had An alignment yet would that cause vibrations? The wheel I have to spin with force but will yeah slow down won’t spin free like trailer tire I know that won’t happen just saying when I spin it it has kinda a catch point. The vibrations worry me
 






Let's start simple, did you have the truck aligned yet?

Did you use a Torque Wrench and tighten everything to spec's?

The wheel won't 'free spin' like a trailer's wheel, there is still the resistance of the front driveline, new hub bearings, etc.

When you say 'not spin and catch', are you saying that the wheel will spin and abruptly stop, or that it just slows down real fast?
Thanks for the help! Got it all fixed and aligned. Installed my old cv shafts and the vibration is gone! The new ones I got from 1A auto just didn’t fit right seemed too long so put the ones I had back in and works perfect!! Do you know what size wheel spacers I can use with the stock lugs? Nothing ridiculous like 1/4 or 5/16”?
 






I recently installed Quicklift and I removed the upper control arm. I put significant pressure down to pop the top of the strut in. I believe you should temporarily loosen the lower control arm bushing nuts so that the lower arm can drop down.

On the rear once I loosened the rear lower control arm bushing it dropped down.

I also removed the Allen heads and adjuster and added waterproof grease behind the adjuster. It was recommended in another thread.

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I am having a similar intermittent vibration and whining noise after installing the Quicklifts. I have had an alignment and retorqued things. I am wondering about the CV joints?
 






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