1995/96 Ford Explorer XL, V6, with spongy brake pedal after new parts

[BillT.]

I have a 1996 Ford Explorer XL with a 1995 Ford V-6 engine (discovered that last year when my starter was replaced), 4WD optional. My problem is that, after replacing the rotors & pads on all four wheels, plus adding the front calipers, & a new master cylinder, & after many, many times of manually bleeding the brakes & master cylinder, my brake pedal is still too mushy, spongy.

I had a friend work on my brakes if I would just buy the parts, instead of a professional because I could not afford the local prices at Midas, etc. Now it's been 18 days (as of Sep. 22) without the use of my vehicle, as he can only work on it some days & not full days at that. Now he's ordered a $170 diagnostic tool for the ABS system (maybe the last thing left after trial & error?). After reading some internet searches about spongy brakes & maybe an ABS connection, I wonder if I should let him tinker with that or just have my rig towed into a professional by now, before my time & maybe more of my dwindling money gets lost.

Suggestions, please, thanks.

 

[EB4X]

I know if your guy did a quicky bleed on master cylinder as in "it's good enough" that could be your problem... I've installed two new one's and had to bleed the dickens out of them before I could no longer see any air bubbles...
It could be the one you got was a poorly remanufactured one/ or new chinese subpar one.....granted rare but definitely not unheard of.....

 

[donalds]

I have seen this problem when changing master cylinder or caliper s or both most likely air in the abs module you will need a scan tool to cycle the valves in that module

I also have seen people use a grass field or rock driveway to slam on the break s to activate the abs system gets the air out then go home and bleed them again may take one or two times

 

[koda2000]

Before ABS replacing calipers and master cylinders just required simple bleeding to get the air out of the brake system. Since ABS systems became the norm it is not so easy to bleed brake systems. If you get air into the ABS pump it is very difficult to get it out and usually requires a special tool to force the ABS pump to run while bleeding the lines.

Also, make sure your calipers are installed with the bleeder valves UP. Sounds dumb but as the right and left calipers can be installed on the wrong side people sometimes end up with the bleeder valve on the bottom instead of on top. You'll never get the air out with the bleeders on the bottom.

 

[BillT.]

I know if your guy did a quicky bleed on master cylinder as in "it's good enough" that could be your problem... I've installed two new one's and had to bleed the dickens out of them before I could no longer see any air bubbles...
It could be the one you got was a poorly remanufactured one/ or new chinese subpar one.....granted rare but definitely not unheard of.....

Thanks for the reply. I took the truck to Meineke on Monday. The mechanic there said he test drove the truck & did not experience spongy brakes. He took off the 4 hubs & noticed that the abutement clip on the right passenger front side was not properly aligned, but that part was not really needed anyway, so if taken off, then that would, at least, eliminate the small noise that was present there after installing all the other new parts. We agreed to leave it off. He might have done a quick bleed (gravity or pressure) on the wheels & may have checked the ABS & found nothing wrong there. So I drive off Monday night with my Explorer back after 18 1/2 - 19 days without it's use. It seemed fine. I did several test braking sequences on the road & the brakes seemed to perform well. Praise God!
(especially when what was done or not done defied the logic & reasoning of the past 18 days).

 

[BillT.]

I have seen this problem when changing master cylinder or caliper s or both most likely air in the abs module you will need a scan tool to cycle the valves in that module

I also have seen people use a grass field or rock driveway to slam on the break s to activate the abs system gets the air out then go home and bleed them again may take one or two times

Thanks for the reply. I took the truck to Meineke on Monday. The mechanic there said he test drove the truck & did not experience spongy brakes. He took off the 4 hubs & noticed that the abutement clip on the right passenger front side was not properly aligned, but that part was not really needed anyway, so if taken off, then that would, at least, eliminate the small noise that was present there after installing all the other new parts. We agreed to leave it off. He might have done a quick bleed (gravity or pressure) on the wheels & may have checked the ABS & found nothing wrong there. So I drive off Monday night with my Explorer back after 18 1/2 - 19 days without it's use. It seemed fine. I did several test braking sequences on the road & the brakes seemed to perform well. Praise God!
(especially when what was done or not done defied the logic & reasoning of the past 18 days).

 

[BillT.]

Before ABS replacing calipers and master cylinders just required simple bleeding to get the air out of the brake system. Since ABS systems became the norm it is not so easy to bleed brake systems. If you get air into the ABS pump it is very difficult to get it out and usually requires a special tool to force the ABS pump to run while bleeding the lines.

Also, make sure your calipers are installed with the bleeder valves UP. Sounds dumb but as the right and left calipers can be installed on the wrong side people sometimes end up with the bleeder valve on the bottom instead of on top. You'll never get the air out with the bleeders on the bottom.

Thanks for the reply. I took the truck to Meineke on Monday. The mechanic there said he test drove the truck & did not experience spongy brakes. He took off the 4 hubs & noticed that the abutement clip on the right passenger front side was not properly aligned, but that part was not really needed anyway, so if taken off, then that would, at least, eliminate the small noise that was present there after installing all the other new parts. We agreed to leave it off. He might have done a quick bleed (gravity or pressure) on the wheels & may have checked the ABS & found nothing wrong there. So I drive off Monday night with my Explorer back after 18 1/2 - 19 days without it's use. It seemed fine. I did several test braking sequences on the road & the brakes seemed to perform well. Praise God!
(especially when what was done or not done defied the logic & reasoning of the past 18 days). P.S. Yes, the new bleeder valves were installed in the up position.

 

[donalds]

Glad to hear

 

[koda2000]

Tip: Use the EDIT function to add to or modify your posting instead of adding posts that say basically the same thing 3 times.

What the heck is a "abutement clip"? I've been working on cars for 55 years and have never heard this term. Are you talking about an anti rattle clip?

 

[Gary Crist]

New brakes take time to break in! A spongy pedal as you experienced,
is a typical symptom.
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
Try this first if you have enough pedal next time....

 

[fast_dave]

When bleeding brakes with a hand operated vacuum pump, utilize grease around the base of the bleed nipples so as to prevent air slipping past the bleeder nipple threads. You can also do this with any hydraulic part that has a bleed nipple.

 

[lobo411]

For the future: when I replaced my master cylinder, I took it to a local brake shop and had them bleed the whole system for like $40.

 

[donalds]

When bleeding brakes with a hand operated vacuum pump, utilize grease around the base of the bleed nipples so as to prevent air slipping past the bleeder nipple threads. You can also do this with any hydraulic part that has a bleed nipple.

This is my method

 

[Joejeffery]

I have a 1996 Ford Explorer XL with a 1995 Ford V-6 engine (discovered that last year when my starter was replaced), 4WD optional. My problem is that, after replacing the rotors & pads on all four wheels, plus adding the front calipers, & a new master cylinder, & after many, many times of manually bleeding the brakes & master cylinder, my brake pedal is still too mushy, spongy.

I had a friend work on my brakes if I would just buy the parts, instead of a professional because I could not afford the local prices at Midas, etc. Now it's been 18 days (as of Sep. 22) without the use of my vehicle, as he can only work on it some days & not full days at that. Now he's ordered a $170 diagnostic tool for the ABS system (maybe the last thing left after trial & error?). After reading some internet searches about spongy brakes & maybe an ABS connection, I wonder if I should let him tinker with that or just have my rig towed into a professional by now, before my time & maybe more of my dwindling money gets lost.

Suggestions, please, thanks.

Mine was similar, pump the brakes and they are fine, drive a bit and back to spongy. After all was said and it ended up being the front wheel bearings. Lol they were worn just enough for the rotors to wobble when moving and spread the brake pads pushing the pistons bak into the calipers, therefore causing a pump of the brake pedal to push the calipers back out into position….. until you moved again

 

[Pete Deering]

I have a 1996 Ford Explorer XL with a 1995 Ford V-6 engine (discovered that last year when my starter was replaced), 4WD optional. My problem is that, after replacing the rotors & pads on all four wheels, plus adding the front calipers, & a new master cylinder, & after many, many times of manually bleeding the brakes & master cylinder, my brake pedal is still too mushy, spongy.

I had a friend work on my brakes if I would just buy the parts, instead of a professional because I could not afford the local prices at Midas, etc. Now it's been 18 days (as of Sep. 22) without the use of my vehicle, as he can only work on it some days & not full days at that. Now he's ordered a $170 diagnostic tool for the ABS system (maybe the last thing left after trial & error?). After reading some internet searches about spongy brakes & maybe an ABS connection, I wonder if I should let him tinker with that or just have my rig towed into a professional by now, before my time & maybe more of my dwindling money gets lost.

Suggestions, please, thanks.

What tool, did your friend buy for $170 too diagnostic tool for the ABS system?

 

[96eb96]

What tool, did your friend buy for $170 too diagnostic tool for the ABS system?

Old Snap on MT2500 will bleed a 96 Explorer, but it has to be set to 97. Not even the Ford Scan tool.
For 95 and 96, you need an ancient special tool with an adapter. It hooks into the ABS harness.

Not sure if the snap on tool can bleed a 95. It probably could with a bit of wiring.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You don’t need anything except a gravel road to bleed the ABS pump. Should also be do-able with FORScan on a 96.

 

[Pete Deering]

Old Snap on MT2500 will bleed a 96 Explorer, but it has to be set to 97. Not even the Ford Scan tool.
For 95 and 96, you need an ancient special tool with an adapter. It hooks into the ABS harness.

Not sure if the snap on tool can bleed a 95. It probably could with a bit of wiring.

Old Snap on MT2500 will bleed a 96 Explorer, but it has to be set to 97. Not even the Ford Scan tool.
For 95 and 96, you need an ancient special tool with an adapter. It hooks into the ABS harness.

Not sure if the snap on tool can bleed a 95. It probably could with a bit of wiring.

I used a vacuum bleeder, I also replaced all the bleeder valve with speed bleeders. It simply the process.

 

[96eb96]

You don’t need anything except a gravel road to bleed the ABS pump. Should also be do-able with FORScan on a 96.

Nope, the service manual specifies a tool and it is not in IDS. The hardware is there though.

 

[96eb96]

I used a vacuum bleeder, I also replaced all the bleeder valve with speed bleeders. It simply the process.

Sure, that works, but the module is another story. You should never really have to do it though it unless it is replaced.