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Rust damage to frame 2001 Explorer Sport 103,000 miles

Johnnyboy201

New Member
Joined
April 23, 2019
Messages
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City, State
North Plainfield, NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Ford Explorer Sport
I fhave a nasty rust through on the front of the rear frame rail where the front rail and rear rail are joined and overlap, this problem exists identically on both sides of the car. A piece of the rear rail is rusted away where it overlaps the front rail; right above the front leaf spring mount. The front rail behind this rust through is fine, as is the rest of the rear rail aft of the problem. Oddly the rest of the frame, which I inspected with my eyeballs, fingers, and a hammer, appears to be in great condition. Does anyone recognize this damage and know how to repair it, and about how much $.? My main concern is the cost of the repair, I have recently moved and my best buddy who used to do non-profit welding for me is far, far away, so I'll have to have this repair professionally done. I really like this car and I'm willing to invest the cash to keep it on the road.
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Swapping the complete frame with a rust free one is probably the best bet. On the body, looks like there could be rust above that section of the frame too.
 






There is a guy up here who would take $3-400 to fix that (worst case, maybe $500 both). He welds up semi frames from all over and has a backlog. Question is more finding a good place who can do it right. That would be a 100% failure in a NYS inspection - frame deterioration at a suspension attachment point.
 






I would clean it with a grinder and get some heavy duty steel and weld it on. I did this to an old toyota pick up I inherited as a teen and it worked fine. As stated above you can get a frame for it that is not rusted through. I do not know how much this would cost at a shop.
 






@Johnnyboy201

A replacement frame sounds like a "hit the goal the 1st time no-brainer."

Any other "fix"; well, just sayin' this since you are in NJ. You might want to ask an actual State Inspector what "fix" he & the NJ Inspection System will accept.

For instance, if he did accept a welded "fix" to what is pictured - would you have to supply paperwork associated with the Grade of Steel used and the Certification of the Welder or anything else?

Like I said - just sayin' before you put out the $$$$$ for anything but the no-brainer fix - you are in NJ...

HTH :thumbsup:
 






@Johnnyboy201

A replacement frame sounds like a "hit the goal the 1st time no-brainer."

Any other "fix"; well, just sayin' this since you are in NJ. You might want to ask an actual State Inspector what "fix" he & the NJ Inspection System will accept.

For instance, if he did accept a welded "fix" to what is pictured - would you have to supply paperwork associated with the Grade of Steel used and the Certification of the Welder or anything else?

Like I said - just sayin' before you put out the $$$$$ for anything but the no-brainer fix - you are in NJ...

HTH :thumbsup:
NJ dropped their safety inspections so that isn't an issue for him. NY has, and it is up the the inspector really to make the call. Generally if it is solid at the attachment point (what is in the book), you are good to go. If they kinda know you they won't even look. NYs safety inspection is quite liberal. If it fails, probably the car should be off the road. Other states are much stricter.
 






Wow, I won't drive that truck with a frame rusted like that. I'd say your best bet would be to get another vehicle, but if you're dead set on repairing it a replacement frame would be your best bet. With enough steel plate and a certified welder I suppose your frame could be repaired, but you'll probably find more rot than you can see currently. Plus I'm guessing the body also has a fair amount of rust.

Used, rust-free Sports were a dime a dozen where I live, but are not desirable due to their problem prone SOHC engines and weak transmissions. Currently I only see one for sale on Atlanta CL. If you want another Sport, consider coming south with around $1200-$1500 and look for one. You can keep your old one for spare parts if you have a place to store it. JMO.
 






Time/$$$ swapping to a better frame vs $$$ spent to a "boxed plate" repair on the rusted one.
Those northern states have crazy vehicle repair laws also. You must have ASE credentials if
doing more than simple PM (some states) and folks cannot repair out of their homes for EPA laws.

I went to get a gift F150 in 1995 in Delaware and the neighbors called the law b/c I was changing
the plug wires. LEO told me no PM was allowed on private property, must be done at a service center.
Too many loons dump oil/filters on the ground and drive off made the laws.

Also depends on what the import from out of state vehicle fee is to the new state for
a "new to you" better framed vehicle is.

Years ago Florida had a ridiculous fee of $400 per vehicle fee for bringing one in from out of state on
top of the title fee/yearly fee.
Florida DMV is notorious for high fees on in-state title name change and yearly taxes over other states.
 






There is a guy up here who would take $3-400 to fix that (worst case, maybe $500 both). He welds up semi frames from all over and has a backlog. Question is more finding a good place who can do it right. That would be a 100% failure in a NYS inspection - frame deterioration at a suspension attachment point.

Thanks everyone for your posts and advice. I am of the same mind as 96eb96 and grizzly. I hope to find a good welder who knows what he is doing to patch it at a reasonable price. Before i start looking I wanted to get as much info as possible so that at least I know what I'm talking about. Once upon a time I had a loyal band of gearheads to help me out with projects like this and cost and having a repair I can trust wouldn't be a concern. Somehow I don't think having a shop install new rear rails is going to make any sense money wise. If anyone has ony idea what that would cost, I'd like to know before I head out looking for a fix.

Of course, I am not making any decisions untill I have it inspected by someone I trust. Unfortunately I recently moved to this area and I have no contacts here to recommend someone. If anyone knows anyone in North Jersey please point me in the right direction.

Thanks, John
 






Thanks everyone for your posts and advice. I am of the same mind as 96eb96 and grizzly. I hope to find a good welder who knows what he is doing to patch it at a reasonable price. Before i start looking I wanted to get as much info as possible so that at least I know what I'm talking about. Once upon a time I had a loyal band of gearheads to help me out with projects like this and cost and having a repair I can trust wouldn't be a concern. Somehow I don't think having a shop install new rear rails is going to make any sense money wise. If anyone has ony idea what that would cost, I'd like to know before I head out looking for a fix.

Of course, I am not making any decisions untill I have it inspected by someone I trust. Unfortunately I recently moved to this area and I have no contacts here to recommend someone. If anyone knows anyone in North Jersey please point me in the right direction.

Thanks, John
Maybe 120 miles north of Jersey :).
You may want to look into a community college or welding school. They may do it for a nominal fee and it helps others learn welding. I'm sure it is very supervised.

There are also guys on CL here who are pro welders and do side jobs. I had a guy fix rockers on my ex. He did an amazing job in a few hours. There isn't inspection in NJ so they may not have that service.
 






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