The physical connection and electrical hookup for the regular IPC and Platinum IPC are exactly the same and the IPC will work with pretty much all functions, the major ones at least, Speed, Tach, Fuel, Coolant, warning lights, etc. There are a couple of minor features that you can add to a regular IPC nut not to Platinum. The Vehicle knows what IPC it came with out of the factory with and although will work the functions it still will be in the background saying...."This is a Platinum Cluster in a NON Platinum VIN you schmuck"....Don't say I didn't warn you when Dealer catches it.
I ran mine from October 2018 until the recent trade in and no questions asked. You do get a secondary digital speedometer display in the central information screen. That works good for ACC where the ACC might be set at lets say at 75MPH. If you have the ACC set to two vehicle lengths......the digital display will adjust "Actual" speed as opposed to programmed speed. if some schmuck pulls in front of you it slows you down applies brake lights for warning of people behind you and when the gap is opened more it will bring you back to the programmed speed. Yes you can be tossed back in your seat from the sudden deceleration but better than accident.
As for mounting although the electrical connection is the same there is a small bit of trimming you need to do for physical fitment. I don't have the photos right off hand but basically trim a small piece of a cross brace where the cluster bolts into the dashboard. The area needs to be trimmed about maybe 1/8 1/4" at the most what this does is sets the bottom of the cluster further against the dashboard so that the instrument cluster bezel will fit. Without trimming those two little corners the Bezel/steering column dust cover WILL NOT fit flush against and inside the dashboard lip.
Don't be intimidated by the trimming, first of all if trimmed correctly the trimmed area will be well behind the dashboard and out of sight. I used a small plastic/cutting wheel for a Dremel Tool. I would keep three to four wheels on hand to be safe but one should do it.
Ensure the cutting wheel spins ALL THE WAY DOWN to a COMPLETE STOP before removing from inside the dashboard. My being impatient caused about a very very small nick (1/16th or less,) on the dashboard top (Windshield side) not deep but just enough to be noticed. One thing I learned about plastic especially black plastic. The nick caused the plastic to tear and although the excess plastic can be trimmed off there is a very faint grey mark in the affected area. If this happens probably some Agate Black or Tuxedo Black touch up paint should fill in blend the panel and make it look like it was never there. There might be a filler repair kit but that's beyond me.
The Legal side of course is technically you are installing a odometer without the "Actual Mileage" For my situation I ordered the cluster first and had my seller program "Future Mileage" Vehicle only had about 500 at the time but I had my seller program 1500 miles. That gave time for the cluster to be programmed, shipped and still arrive with some cushion before actual installation. I was using 500 and 1500 miles as a reference mileage but the same concept applies for all vehicles. I drove normally but when it got close to the programmed mileage I stayed local and close enough to the house that I could get back home quickly and install. Yes it took some finagling but I can honestly say that I removed and installed the new cluster to within +/-1 mile. I didn't have ECU information pulled but I would say it was a match and no fraud.
The cluster that is being removed and potentially sold is the next buyers problem after sale. Example you sell a cluster that has lets say 20K. Buyer installs in a vehicle that has lets say 25-30K actual...that becomes their responsibility for truth in advertising. The old adage that could apply....5-6 miles off....typographical error...….5000-6000 miles off...FRAUD.
