For Sale - FS: 1994 Explorer Sport | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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For Sale FS: 1994 Explorer Sport

shran

Elite Explorer
Joined
March 26, 2019
Messages
155
Reaction score
99
City, State
South Dakota
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer XLT
Quick details: 1994 Explorer Sport, 4.0 V6, automatic, 234k miles, runs and drives good. 3.73 gears, open diffs, electric shift 4x4.

More information: I have been slowly collecting parts and building this Explorer for several years with the intention of offroad racing it. I have mostly lost interest in doing that, however, quite a bit has been done. It was originally a 5 speed manual trans vehicle but has been converted to automatic with an ultra rare C5 transmission from a Bronco II. Has a lot of new parts installed: radiator, plugs, fluids changed, AC delete done, fairly new battery and fuel pump, oil changed, and other things I’m forgetting. Custom bumpers front and rear, recovery points, front and rear receiver hitches, etc.

The interior was very dirty when I got this and everything except the front seats was discarded. It has some repairable rust in the rockers like all of them do – I have some patch panels to fix this and a good set of front fenders. Floors, frame, body mounts, etc are in good shape. Exhaust was rusted off at the cats so they were discarded and it was straight piped.

This Explorer could be race ready with a cage, race legal muffler and minimal other work. I have seat belts, fuel cell, battery box, and Dana 44 front hub conversion kit available to go with the truck.
To just drive it or wheel it as is, it just needs your license plates, trans kickdown cable finished (halfway done) automatic trans pedal assembly installed (included with truck) and maybe a better shifter.

Price is negotiable depending on what you want with the truck. It can be cheap if you want a rolling chassis and you bring your own wheels & tires. I have several sets of wheels and tires that can go on it at various price points. As pictured with the 31” Duratracs and wheels, I want $2500 for it. Message me if you’re interested and we can work out a fair deal.

Not really in any hurry to part ways with this but I do have a couple other vehicles I'd like to put some time & money into.

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Good lookin! I just scooped up a 93 Eddie Bauer for $2k otherwise I’d def be interested

Good luck!
 






Thanks! Hoping that someone sees what this rig could be, there are a LOT of goodies here and I will sure deal on the price with different wheel/tire combos. Hated to put it up for sale but I have recently purchased a couple Rangers that I would rather focus on.
 






Quick update:

I have removed the 31" Duratracs and the wheels pictured and replaced them with a set of 235-75-15 mud tires and steel Ranger wheels. Price with this combo is now $2000 and is still negotiable with other wheels & tires I have!

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I'm curious about the D44 hub conversion kit...Is it a full knuckle swap or just a spindles+d35 knuckle setup?
 






At this point it could go either way. I have a set of Chevy knuckles, spindles, etc. If I get around to actually working on it... I was going to do the "mappyjack" style conversion using the D35 knuckles, Chevy spindle and brakes. Seemed easier to go that route than buying a reamer just to use the D44 knuckles.
 






To just drive it or wheel it as is, it just needs your license plates, trans kick-down cable finished (halfway done) automatic trans pedal assembly installed (included with truck) and maybe a better shifter.
Damn, I wish you were closer to Chicago. I have a set of Ranger aluminum rims that would bolt right up (just need some new tires). Although, I am a little thrown by what else needs to be done to get the slush-box working.
 






Damn, I wish you were closer to Chicago. I have a set of Ranger aluminum rims that would bolt right up (just need some new tires). Although, I am a little thrown by what else needs to be done to get the slush-box working.
The C5 should be completely mechanical, and not require anything to “function” other than the kick down. It wouldn’t need any computer feedback, or controls.

This thread is also 2 years old.
 






Damn, I wish you were closer to Chicago. I have a set of Ranger aluminum rims that would bolt right up (just need some new tires). Although, I am a little thrown by what else needs to be done to get the slush-box working.

I forgot I had this posted for sale here.

I actually spent quite a bit of time on this truck earlier this year and built a really nice shifter floor plate (used a B&W Unimatic) and converted to a manual 1354 t-case. I also fixed a bunch of the other little issues and put a better exhaust system on it plus rear seats, belts, and better front seats. I drove it quite a bit last summer and this fall.

After all the work I put into it I am probably just going to keep it. I would need more than my original asking price if I was to sell it now.

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The C5 should be completely mechanical, and not require anything to “function” other than the kick down. It wouldn’t need any computer feedback, or controls.

This thread is also 2 years old.

That is correct, it just needs vacuum to the modulator. It was functional as-is when I posted this thread, the shifter was just pretty janky. I have since replaced that.

The kickdown is an interesting topic. I got halfway through a cable conversion on that and had to work on a different project so it has not been finished. Although in the meantime I was reading up on it a bit more... apparently the general consensus is that the kickdown is not even really necessary on a C4, C5 or C6... it's only function is to provide more pressure (or something like that) during a downshift, like when you speed up to pass someone...for example. It's NOT like the AOD, 700R4, etc that have a TV cable that MUST be adjusted correctly. So finishing that project has not been a high priority.
 






Interesting, I’m much more familiar with the AOD family.
 






I am not familiar with autos at all, really, this is the only one I've gone out of my way to use. Everything else has been a 4 or 5 speed manual.

The C5 behind the 4.0 has some interesting quirks. When slowing down, no throttle and foot on the brake, the engine will sort of surge just a tiny, tiny bit. You can hear it in the exhaust, it goes "uhhh........uhhhh.....uhhhh" several times and then stops. I think the ECM is seeing a closed throttle but there's still a load from the torque converter or something and it's compensating for it.

I am going to put a shift kit in the C5 at some point. It drives fine but often I cannot tell when it shifts. That would be no problem for most people but to me it's just mushy and the Unimatic doesn't have a gear indicator...often I hit 2nd instead of D and wonder why it didn't shift out of 1st when it's really limited to 2nd.
 






Does it have the original lockup torque converter from the bronco 2?
 






Does it have the original lockup torque converter from the bronco 2?

I am assuming so but I really don't know. Seems like I remember reading that the lockup converters are no longer available anywhere...just the non locking version is what you can get now. If this trans was ever rebuilt then it may be non-locking. However, I have had this trans for many years and it came out of a truck that simply had a bad engine... so it could be.
 






After all the work I put into it I am probably just going to keep it. I would need more than my original asking price if I was to sell it now.
No worries! I may have found something locally anyways. Glad to hear you might hang on to it.
 






Good deal. I think for now I will just mark this post as "sold" or whatever unless someone REALLY wants this thing... as time allows I am going to solid axle swap it and replace my old Ranger crawler.
 






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