SHOCKS

[Cuco]

I tried them all and I’m gonna tell you about my experience with each shock brand. ( I have 96 Explorer XLT 5.0 ) I live in New York City the city of POT HOLES. Pot holes kill shocks or shorten the lifespan , if I lived in another state which doesn’t have pot holes i’m pretty sure the shocks will live longer and perform better. Monroe shocks SUCKS within 6 months the welds broke & the ride sucks feels like cheap shocks , do not buy Monroe. KYB shocks , I tried the white & gray kyb shocks Ride very firm & stiff takes pot holes very well at the end of the shocks lifecycle It starts to ride very smooth , then dies quickly got proximately 6 months of life. The red KYB ride firm to hard did not like the ride , I have heard of the red KYB ride good on some other explorers but not mines. I change them out within 1 year , the ride never change since day one (ride too hard). Bilstein shocks ride firm and takes potholes well , when vehicle is loaded up with weight rides very smooth , but did not last long within 6 months to 1 year they died. Gabriel MaxControl shocks , WOW made my truck ride like a brand new truck , straight out of ford dealership on day one , very smooth ride takes turns very well and potholes pretty good better than Bilstein shocks , but it doesn’t last long the potholes in my city eats the shocks up quick only got six months of life , if you live in an area that has no potholes I will recommend the shocks , and do not load your vehicle with heavy equipment or stuff all the time.
Ranchos 5000 rides OK only last 6 months ended up with a busted shocks from the pothole. Never tried the Ranchos 7000. But now I have the Rancho 9000 with adjustment knob for a ride control. This time I did things a little different let me explain , I adjusted both my torsion bars just to stiffen them up , not for height & add Timbren rubber springs & in the rear I have coil over shocks this helps with body roll had the rear shocks for already almost 2 years still good . For the front I’m three months in will keep you posted on ride and longevity of the front. Now my truck rides very smooth on flat surface handles turns like a race car and takes potholes stiff but pretty good. CHECK OUT MY POST ON TIMBREN

 

[XLTrunner]

I would concur with you regarding the Gabriel Max Controls. I installed them on my Explorer a few yrs ago and, after 27K miles, they still ride great. Was like driving a new vehicle when I put them on. However, I live in the suburbs where potholes are not much of an issue. Anyway, I really don't understand why more people don't consider giving these a try. Right now, AutoZone has them for about half of what everyone else is selling them for...including RockAuto when you factor in shipping.

 

[Jason94sport]

How the heck do you drive? I lived in NYC. Drove all over. The Procomp ES9000 shocks I had lasted.

 

[gmanpaint]

Shocks are like tires when it comes to individual preference. The reviews and thoughts are all over the place with choices. I have used many many brands and styles over the years, and still have not even come close to trying them all. No way to personally tell you what's best, that's impossible.

I do agree with your thoughts on potholes. They are deadly to vehicles, and cause more damages than just to the shocks, if the shocks can't handle them.

Potholes can cause over 3g's of force in an instant. If it's deep or long enough, or more than one hole in a series,they can't recover fast enough, as they have sluggish rebound rates. These cheap shocks just aren't made to handle this kind of abuse for long. My advice is to slow down, and steer around them, or just Move to the country. lol

My personal rule of thumb for shocks is this:
If it has paint, it's on the cheap end, and just won't last under abuse. Decent shocks have NO paint at all and can be bought from $90 & $200. Good shocks can cost between $200 & $500/ea. Top end shocks, $500 up to $2k+/ea.

The RS9000XL are at the high end of the cheapo's. They are bigger at 3" diameter, and are now both gas charged, and oil filled. The RS9000 of yesteryear were not gas charged, only oil charged. They can recover faster depending on how you set them. You can tune the front & back to match, and remove any hydroplane. These are best used in a set of 4 because of this. Not saying you shouldn't run them in front or back only, just that they work better as a full set.

They are however, still a painted can shock, and they do/will go bad. I have had to replace a few of them, in a few years time. If they get a little dent in them, they go bad. The adjustment knobs are prone to get hit, and fall off. The boots will trap silt, and ruin the top seals, and pit the shafts. Don't use the boots, and that won't happen. If you run them in the rears (other people reading this), turn the knobs to the front to help save them.

If you want to test the new versions for leaks, all you do is collapse them all the way by hand. If they instantly extend fully on their own, all good. If they don't, throw em out, they bad. I still run a full set of these on the work rig, and have been for many years. Work rig stays on the road 95% of the time, but these work for the occasional off road adventure.

On the rig for off road use, I replaced the 9000XL with the MT7000 for a short time. I liked them better than the RS9000XL for off road use. Stronger, nickle plated, and rebuild-able if needed. I still wasn't happy, and ended up with Fox 2.0 with reservoirs. I still want better then those, and am drooling over a set of ORI's or Kings. Need to take out a bank loan for those tho.

 

[Cuco]

Shocks are like tires when it comes to individual preference. The reviews and thoughts are all over the place with choices. I have used many many brands and styles over the years, and still have not even come close to trying them all. No way to personally tell you what's best, that's impossible.

I do agree with your thoughts on potholes. They are deadly to vehicles, and cause more damages than just to the shocks, if the shocks can't handle them.

Potholes can cause over 3g's of force in an instant. If it's deep or long enough, or more than one hole in a series,they can't recover fast enough, as they have sluggish rebound rates. These cheap shocks just aren't made to handle this kind of abuse for long. My advice is to slow down, and steer around them, or just Move to the country. lol

My personal rule of thumb for shocks is this:
If it has paint, it's on the cheap end, and just won't last under abuse. Decent shocks have NO paint at all and can be bought from $90 & $200. Good shocks can cost between $200 & $500/ea. Top end shocks, $500 up to $2k+/ea.

The RS9000XL are at the high end of the cheapo's. They are bigger at 3" diameter, and are now both gas charged, and oil filled. The RS9000 of yesteryear were not gas charged, only oil charged. They can recover faster depending on how you set them. You can tune the front & back to match, and remove any hydroplane. These are best used in a set of 4 because of this. Not saying you shouldn't run them in front or back only, just that they work better as a full set.

They are however, still a painted can shock, and they do/will go bad. I have had to replace a few of them, in a few years time. If they get a little dent in them, they go bad. The adjustment knobs are prone to get hit, and fall off. The boots will trap silt, and ruin the top seals, and pit the shafts. Don't use the boots, and that won't happen. If you run them in the rears (other people reading this), turn the knobs to the front to help save them.

If you want to test the new versions for leaks, all you do is collapse them all the way by hand. If they instantly extend fully on their own, all good. If they don't, throw em out, they bad. I still run a full set of these on the work rig, and have been for many years. Work rig stays on the road 95% of the time, but these work for the occasional off road adventure.

On the rig for off road use, I replaced the 9000XL with the MT7000 for a short time. I liked them better than the RS9000XL for off road use. Stronger, nickle plated, and rebuild-able if needed. I still wasn't happy, and ended up with Fox 2.0 with reservoirs. I still want better then those, and am drooling over a set of ORI's or Kings. Need to take out a bank loan for those tho.

I was looking for one of those top-of-the-line shocks that you are talking about ( example Fox 2.0) they don’t make them for my vehicle , if they do please post a link to any of those top-of-the-line shocks that fit my 96 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0 AWD 4 Door. P.S if you can recommend a top-of-the-line shocks for my vehicle I will max out my credit card

 

[AbbyExplorer]

Same for 99 XLS Explorer. If you could tell me the best shock for that. I’ll go get it

 

[gmanpaint]

Simple direct bolt in swap sets of shocks, are going to keep you in the lower end of the shock spectrum.

To get to the next level of shocks, you have to do some homework for sizes, and how to install them. When you move past the "Made for stock application" shocks, you shop for sizes, & types. Eventually, the higher end you go, the mounts are universal eyelets, and your only after sizes.

Certain modifications will be needed to install these higher end shocks. Your also going to need deep pockets, and a shoulder to cry on, when you realize your shocks cost more than what you paid for your Explorer.

I suggest searching the modified sections of the 1st & 2nd gen forums for rear shock upgrades, and 2nd gen forum for front. The user registries showcase members rigs in all their glory as well. Most have a link in their signature (as I do) that will take you to what they like to share. There is plenty of threads / posts already there sharing the knowledge, and the How too's of getting these higher end upgrades installed.

Here is my 2nd gen with the Fox shocks. Lots of work to get these installed, but well worth the pay off.

Front

Rear

 

[Brem95]

I put the monroe oem shocks on my ex. they're far better then the blue monroe shocks. Cost about 200 for all 4 corners and so far run great. I don't know much about exs suspension options but I put bilstein 5100's on my f-150 with front adjustable and they're great.

 

[Cuco]

Simple direct bolt in swap sets of shocks, are going to keep you in the lower end of the shock spectrum.

To get to the next level of shocks, you have to do some homework for sizes, and how to install them. When you move past the "Made for stock application" shocks, you shop for sizes, & types. Eventually, the higher end you go, the mounts are universal eyelets, and your only after sizes.

Certain modifications will be needed to install these higher end shocks. Your also going to need deep pockets, and a shoulder to cry on, when you realize your shocks cost more than what you paid for your Explorer.

I suggest searching the modified sections of the 1st & 2nd gen forums for rear shock upgrades, and 2nd gen forum for front. The user registries showcase members rigs in all their glory as well. Most have a link in their signature (as I do) that will take you to what they like to share. There is plenty of threads / posts already there sharing the knowledge, and the How too's of getting these higher end upgrades installed.

Here is my 2nd gen with the Fox shocks. Lots of work to get these installed, but well worth the pay off.

Front

View attachment 174388

Rear

View attachment 174389

WOW

 

[donalds]

I use oem
Rides great
But I live in n.c. where their are no potholes

Now in buffalo that's a different story lol

 

[allmyEXes]

@gmanpaint .. Where did you acquire your UCAs?

 

[gmanpaint]

@gmanpaint .. Where did you acquire your UCAs?

The 1" Uniball DOM UCA's are from BTF. I run the Stainless Steel versions.

Ford ranger uniball upper control arms-coil spring truck

They also have a newer version that looks pretty slick.

Ranger Edge/Explorer/4x4 uniball upper arms

 

[allmyEXes]

Wow! Nice! Those cost more than my '97!

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Speaking of shocks, I replaced my worn-out Rancho 5000s with a pair of Bilsteins today. The Ranchos had
over 100K miles on them so it was time. I also replaced the sway bar end links with a set of Energy Suspension
with poly bushings. The rears are coil over Monroes with an EE anti-sway bar with poly bushings all around,
coupled with a Loadmaster Active Suspension setup. Tires are Michelin LTX.

Haven't had a chance to test drive it yet, but expecting the Bilsteins to be an improvement over the worn-out
Ranchos...

 

[Cuco]

I use oem
Rides great
But I live in n.c. where their are no potholes

Now in buffalo that's a different story lol

When you say OEM , you mean Motorcraft shocks?

 

[donalds]

When you say OEM , you mean Motorcraft shocks?

Yes sir

 

[Cuco]

Simple direct bolt in swap sets of shocks, are going to keep you in the lower end of the shock spectrum.

To get to the next level of shocks, you have to do some homework for sizes, and how to install them. When you move past the "Made for stock application" shocks, you shop for sizes, & types. Eventually, the higher end you go, the mounts are universal eyelets, and your only after sizes.

Certain modifications will be needed to install these higher end shocks. Your also going to need deep pockets, and a shoulder to cry on, when you realize your shocks cost more than what you paid for your Explorer.

I suggest searching the modified sections of the 1st & 2nd gen forums for rear shock upgrades, and 2nd gen forum for front. The user registries showcase members rigs in all their glory as well. Most have a link in their signature (as I do) that will take you to what they like to share. There is plenty of threads / posts already there sharing the knowledge, and the How too's of getting these higher end upgrades installed.

Here is my 2nd gen with the Fox shocks. Lots of work to get these installed, but well worth the pay off.

Front

View attachment 174388

Rear

View attachment 174389

 

[Cuco]

WOW I like what I see , it’s almost like I’m looking at a naked hot girl with no clothes on , LOL
Is any welding requirement or it’s a nut and bolt set up & and how is the ride , doesn’t really like a ultimate Lincoln town car. Brand new nazi car that can handle any potholes. What is the longevity or quality in the long run having this type of suspension

 

[gmanpaint]

Like I said, once you go past any stock bolt in applications, there will be some work involved to get them installed. This forum is full of information with modified suspensions. Look at the modified 2nd gen, and the specific category forums here, for ideas, and information.

The pictures I posted of my setup was just to give you an idea that you can upgrade above the normal run of the mill stock bolt in applications. I am far from the only one here that has done shock upgrades, plenty have.

Search out Coil over swaps here, and you will find threads on whats involved. There is a little welding required in this setup. For the rears, you need a set of Pin Bar eliminators or hoops, and more, to run the high end double eyelet shocks.

In my signature is a link to the Black Hole (my rig). In that thread you will find posts with what I did for shock installs.

 

[BKennedy]

Mmmmmmmmmmm…...shocks....