AbbyExplorer
Member
- Joined
- October 2, 2019
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Ontario
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 99 Explorer XLS
Are Non motorcraft ball joints ok for a 99 Explorer XLS?
thank youYes, if its a quality part. Most aftermarket replacement ball joints are greasable which will extend life.
This all makes sense, I got a non motor craft ball joint in today and kinda regret it. Might just get Motorcraft ones so I don't have to worry about greasing them.Agreed, get a major brand and their higher tier part if they offer two quality levels. For example if you want the greaseless, permanently sealed type, get ACDelco Pro instead of ACDelco Advantage, though Moog Problem Solver greaseable seems to be the most popular choice.
IMO the metal bushing greaseable type makes more difference on the bottom BJs than the top because they bear the load and the impact of potholes, etc.
However, remember that if you put on the greaseable type and are greasing them on a schedule with every (or every other) oil change, that if you let a shop do your oil change instead of DIY, they will probably assume you have non-greaseable BJs unless you specifically tell them that you have greaseable BJs and want them greased. Frankly I would just as soon DIY because the more things a low tech oil change grunt does, the better (lol) but it's something to keep in mind... don't assume they'll check the BJs if the factory BJs weren't greaseable. They'd just as soon only do an "oil" if they don't have to do an "oil and lube".
Gonna just eat it and get the best. I want the best for my explorer. You thinking changing all the ball joints even if they don’t need to be changed is a good idea?"ProSeries" is not a recognizable brand name which suggests it is very low quality junk. I would return them for a refund if possible or eat the loss if not possible, unless your only concern is repair it the cheapest way possible to sell it immediately.
The best cost effective choice for non-greaseable BJs is ACDelco Pro... depending on where you buy them, I'm going by Rock Auto prices.
Yeah, you are right, I think I'm just excited about the explorer since I just bought it a week ago. Thanks for this, I definitely don't want to spend on repairs for more than I paid for the explorer. I really like the explorer though^ Unless you have some extreme fetish with this generation of explorer, I can't recommend trying to restore it to like new if you're paying someone else for labor to make that happen.
Being in Ontario, there's just no remotely-close to cost effective way to do that. Rust, and body bushings, and a dozen other things make a 20+ year old vehicle more of a keep it the way it is project rather than "like brand new", unless you literally pull the cab off the frame and fully do everything from the frame up. It is the unfortunate truth in climates that are not kind to steel, but at 20 years, rubber fails too.
Further, you will definitely be overcharged for new shocks and labor at a dealership shop. This is something anyone could do, shocks on these are very easy with the minor exception of some people needing to remove or work around a gas tank evaporation canister bracket.
Ultimately I mean that until rust does it in, ball joints, any suspension work is important for safety, but don't spend too much on it. A vehicle is usually deemed totaled when the repair costs exceed the bluebook value. It would be VERY easy to rack up in excess of $2K worth of repairs at a Ford dealer shop, in the blink of an eye even, if talking BJ's and shocks and the emissions issue you mentioned.
DIY is the only cost effective way to maintain a 20+ year old SUV.
Gonna just eat it and get the best. I want the best for my explorer. You thinking changing all the ball joints even if they don’t need to be changed is a good idea?
Getting OE ones put on front left and right and changing tie rodTrue, and that's why you should never use the cheap ball joints. If they fail, the wheel might literally fall off - imagine the ensuing carnage if this happens at highway speeds!
The OE designs, no doubt, are engineered to provide some warning before total failure.