Non Motorcraft ball joint

[AbbyExplorer]

Are Non motorcraft ball joints ok for a 99 Explorer XLS?

 

[Brem95]

Yes, if its a quality part. Most aftermarket replacement ball joints are greasable which will extend life.

 

[AbbyExplorer]

Yes, if its a quality part. Most aftermarket replacement ball joints are greasable which will extend life.

thank you

 

[J_C]

Agreed, get a major brand and their higher tier part if they offer two quality levels. For example if you want the greaseless, permanently sealed type, get ACDelco Pro instead of ACDelco Advantage, though Moog Problem Solver greaseable seems to be the most popular choice.

IMO the metal bushing greaseable type makes more difference on the bottom BJs than the top because they bear the load and the impact of potholes, etc.

However, remember that if you put on the greaseable type and are greasing them on a schedule with every (or every other) oil change, that if you let a shop do your oil change instead of DIY, they will probably assume you have non-greaseable BJs unless you specifically tell them that you have greaseable BJs and want them greased. Frankly I would just as soon DIY because the more things a low tech oil change grunt does, the better (lol) but it's something to keep in mind... don't assume they'll check the BJs if the factory BJs weren't greaseable. They'd just as soon only do an "oil" if they don't have to do an "oil and lube".

 

[AbbyExplorer]

Agreed, get a major brand and their higher tier part if they offer two quality levels. For example if you want the greaseless, permanently sealed type, get ACDelco Pro instead of ACDelco Advantage, though Moog Problem Solver greaseable seems to be the most popular choice.

IMO the metal bushing greaseable type makes more difference on the bottom BJs than the top because they bear the load and the impact of potholes, etc.

However, remember that if you put on the greaseable type and are greasing them on a schedule with every (or every other) oil change, that if you let a shop do your oil change instead of DIY, they will probably assume you have non-greaseable BJs unless you specifically tell them that you have greaseable BJs and want them greased. Frankly I would just as soon DIY because the more things a low tech oil change grunt does, the better (lol) but it's something to keep in mind... don't assume they'll check the BJs if the factory BJs weren't greaseable. They'd just as soon only do an "oil" if they don't have to do an "oil and lube".

This all makes sense, I got a non motor craft ball joint in today and kinda regret it. Might just get Motorcraft ones so I don't have to worry about greasing them.

 

[AbbyExplorer]

I got one called
ProSeries OE+Ball Joint - Front

not sure if this is good at all. I assume the motorcraft ones don't need to be greased ?

 

[J_C]

"ProSeries" is not a recognizable brand name which suggests it is very low quality junk. I would return them for a refund if possible or eat the loss if not possible, unless your only concern is repair it the cheapest way possible to sell it immediately.

The best cost effective choice for non-greaseable BJs is ACDelco Pro... depending on where you buy them, I'm going by Rock Auto prices. Edit: Scratch that, their pictures show that is now greaseable.

 

[donalds]

I used mevotech with great results

Lower control arms and upper to

Why because I like to live on the edge

No I'm kidding the mevotech parts are working well

 

[AbbyExplorer]

"ProSeries" is not a recognizable brand name which suggests it is very low quality junk. I would return them for a refund if possible or eat the loss if not possible, unless your only concern is repair it the cheapest way possible to sell it immediately.

The best cost effective choice for non-greaseable BJs is ACDelco Pro... depending on where you buy them, I'm going by Rock Auto prices.

Gonna just eat it and get the best. I want the best for my explorer. You thinking changing all the ball joints even if they don’t need to be changed is a good idea?

 

[XLTrunner]

As a general rule, it's a good idea to change both lower BJ's (if one is bad, the other is sure to follow). If you're a DIY-er, I'd also do the uppers, get an alignment and be done with it all. If you have to pay to have someone do this work and budget is tight, I'd get an opinion from the shop as to whether the uppers need replacing at this time. As mentioned, the lowers are the ones that bear the brunt of the load.

 

[J_C]

I tried to edit my last post last night when there was some temporary site outage, at least I couldn't get it edited.

When I did my BJ's the ACDelco Pro was a sealed non-greaseable part but now on Rock Auto I see the ACDelco has a grease fitting. I didn't use ACDelco Pro for mine (used Moog) but I clearly remember that at the time ACDelco offered the greaseless, plastic bushing BJs so their part design has changed since then.

As far as changing BJ's that don't need it yet, it depends on what lies ahead. The lowers don't need an alignment done afterwards while the uppers do. If you are anywhere near needing new tires soon then I would hold off on doing the uppers till right before you get new tires so you can have one alignment done at that time. The same goes for the tie rod ends.

 

[donalds]

I hate doing ball joints I just replaced all upper and lower control arms less work

 

[AbbyExplorer]

Have an appointment tomorrow for my engine light at a ford dealer . Going to tell them to change all ball joints also. Assume they will use motor craft ones at Ford. I’m fine spending a bit on my explorer. I want the best for it.

 

[AbbyExplorer]

If they are changing my ball joints tomorrow, should I request the shocks to be changed? I asked the guy and he said he will take a look and let me know. Thinking even if he says no that I will request them to be changed. I want my explorer to be like brand new

 

[J_C]

^ Unless you have some extreme fetish with this generation of explorer, I can't recommend trying to restore it to like new if you're paying someone else for labor to make that happen.

Being in Ontario, there's just no remotely-close to cost effective way to do that. Rust, and body bushings, and a dozen other things make a 20+ year old vehicle more of a keep it the way it is project rather than "like brand new", unless you literally pull the cab off the frame and fully do everything from the frame up. It is the unfortunate truth in climates that are not kind to steel, but at 20 years, rubber fails too.

Further, you will definitely be overcharged for new shocks and labor at a dealership shop. This is something anyone could do, shocks on these are very easy with the minor exception of some people needing to remove or work around a gas tank evaporation canister bracket.

Ultimately I mean that until rust does it in, ball joints, any suspension work is important for safety, but don't spend too much on it. A vehicle is usually deemed totaled when the repair costs exceed the bluebook value. It would be VERY easy to rack up in excess of $2K worth of repairs at a Ford dealer shop, in the blink of an eye even, if talking BJ's and shocks and the emissions issue you mentioned.

DIY is the only cost effective way to maintain a 20+ year old SUV.

 

[AbbyExplorer]

^ Unless you have some extreme fetish with this generation of explorer, I can't recommend trying to restore it to like new if you're paying someone else for labor to make that happen.

Being in Ontario, there's just no remotely-close to cost effective way to do that. Rust, and body bushings, and a dozen other things make a 20+ year old vehicle more of a keep it the way it is project rather than "like brand new", unless you literally pull the cab off the frame and fully do everything from the frame up. It is the unfortunate truth in climates that are not kind to steel, but at 20 years, rubber fails too.

Further, you will definitely be overcharged for new shocks and labor at a dealership shop. This is something anyone could do, shocks on these are very easy with the minor exception of some people needing to remove or work around a gas tank evaporation canister bracket.

Ultimately I mean that until rust does it in, ball joints, any suspension work is important for safety, but don't spend too much on it. A vehicle is usually deemed totaled when the repair costs exceed the bluebook value. It would be VERY easy to rack up in excess of $2K worth of repairs at a Ford dealer shop, in the blink of an eye even, if talking BJ's and shocks and the emissions issue you mentioned.

DIY is the only cost effective way to maintain a 20+ year old SUV.

Yeah, you are right, I think I'm just excited about the explorer since I just bought it a week ago. Thanks for this, I definitely don't want to spend on repairs for more than I paid for the explorer. I really like the explorer though

 

[masospaghetti]

Gonna just eat it and get the best. I want the best for my explorer. You thinking changing all the ball joints even if they don’t need to be changed is a good idea?

In my opinion, leave them alone if they are in good condition. Ball joints usually only fail when the boot rips and the grease falls out. If the boot is intact, the joints last almost forever.

I'll echo the sentiment that paying a dealer to do that work (and especially with OE Motorcraft parts) is going to cost you both arms and both legs, literally more than the vehicle is worth. If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, you can replace the shocks yourself -- they are relatively easy, especially compared to new vehicles with struts. The control arms and ball joints will be more involved for sure and that's why I wouldn't replace them until I really had to.

 

[J_C]

^ I agree that good quality BJs tend to fail after the boot does, but it's a crap shoot with cheap generics, some only lasting 10K mi. Hopefully when they fail you get some warning from a clunking noise instead of losing a wheel.

 

[masospaghetti]

True, and that's why you should never use the cheap ball joints. If they fail, the wheel might literally fall off - imagine the ensuing carnage if this happens at highway speeds!

The OE designs, no doubt, are engineered to provide some warning before total failure.

 

[AbbyExplorer]

True, and that's why you should never use the cheap ball joints. If they fail, the wheel might literally fall off - imagine the ensuing carnage if this happens at highway speeds!

The OE designs, no doubt, are engineered to provide some warning before total failure.

Getting OE ones put on front left and right and changing tie rod