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Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from www.Bansheesuperchargerkit.com
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

Pictures
1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
5.Wheelie
green ex.jpg
DSC02710.JPG
5.JPG
Lowered Rear.jpg
Exploder wheelie.jpg
 



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Well done, you've had great fortune with that transmission. The 5R55E doesn't have much aftermarket support to upgrade anything major. But there are many small items Sonnax makes for it that do help the valve body, and that's a weak link of most automatics.

Raising the fluid pressure inside is smart to help the clutches hold better, and the Borg Warner EPC solenoid is a good improvement over the stock design. So to improve one 5R55E, do the BW EPC, Sonnax items, some kind of VB kit, and raise the programmed pressures(how much is a good question).
 



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Thank you both for the help. Made my mind up about if I wanna keep it or go another route.
 






Injectors removed, look what I found!

 






i thought mine was a ***** to get apart, but not after watching that video.

for what ever reason i thought you had your battery in the back. now forgive me if i have asked this in past posts, but what did you do and use to mount it in the passengers side. or do you have it in your past posts
 












i thought mine was a ***** to get apart, but not after watching that video.

for what ever reason i thought you had your battery in the back. now forgive me if i have asked this in past posts, but what did you do and use to mount it in the passengers side. or do you have it in your past posts

I used a 3/8 plate of aluminum and bolted it to the passenger side using 3/8 bolts. Then I fabbed up a battery hold down bracket out of a strip of aluminum.
I used 3/8 bolts because of NHRA rules for battery hold downs, makes sense to me.
 






Well, you got them out in 16 minutes. Not bad.

Time lapse makes me look as fast as I used to be. LOL
In the middle of replacing the injectors, I stopped to pressure test my neighbors cooling system in their Hyundai Sonata.
Turned out to be a heater hose and I had some in stock so I fixed it for them.
I believe in helping people out when given the opportunity, I also believe in paying it forward.
I feel that my automotive talents were given to me for a purpose, so to be able to help someone using my talents is just the right thing to do.
Whatever talents you are given in life, use them to do good.
 






You need a ....do it for dale....sticker in the window
 






Injector replacement part 3.
injectors completely installed.

 






What injectors went in? How many of the original O-rings were blown out?

Were all sure hoping this fixes the issue.
 






What injectors went in? How many of the original O-rings were blown out?

Were all sure hoping this fixes the issue.

I replaced the injectors with 6 of the same, just new. They are 60lb/hr Siemens Deka
Only one O-ring was blown out, it was on the bank I am having the partial misfire on.
 






I hope first start-up is good
 






The first start up after Injector replacement.

 






I still feel that the tps sensor has dust in it which I don't think would show up on a scanner
A scope definitely
A volt meter testing manually should show how that potentiometer is doing worth a look
 






I still feel that the tps sensor has dust in it which I don't think would show up on a scanner
A scope definitely
A volt meter testing manually should show how that potentiometer is doing worth a look

The TPS problem was with my 1998 4 door Explorer which is bone stock, not the race truck.
 






Keep digging at it, solving a misfire can be aggravating, and slow. I'd say test and hope it's a spark plug wire, but the V6 shouldn't have that problem. Do you have upper level diagnostic tools, at school etc? That's what I'd go to next, if I could.
 






I have replaced the wires, spark plugs, and ignition coil. And I did replace fuel injectors (including the one with the blown out o-ring).
Also the O2 sensor, even pulled the sensor out to rule out back pressure from a clogged cat.
The misfire is only partial, like an A/F mixture problem. Not even steady enough to set misfire codes.
I own lots of diagnostic equipment, even Factory stuff and I have access to Fords online stuff except for labor times.
This is just a weird problem probably caused by the nitrous backfire.

Maybe a cracked ring land but how do you test to prove that is the cause before tearing the engine apart?
Compression looks good 175-185 all cylinders, leakdown passes as they are all less than 20%.
My next test will probably be a running (dynamic) compression test.
 






Here is some more information from testing I have done.

 






Good thing your a patient man. This issue is crazy.
 



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Puzzling
 






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