2006 ex, 186k things to check?

[Harley McIntyre]

I've got 186k on my 06 v8, I'm slowly learning more and more about it's issue. Just found today the driveshaft has some rotational play in it. Not alot or anything but it's definitely there, no side to side or up and down just rotateional. Just wondering what else should I check at this mileage? I know I need suspension work too. But is there anything else? Thanks!

 

[Explorer_PL]

Front or rear driveshaft ?
Some rotational play is ok. I am still on my original rear driveshaft and both differentials at 292k miles.
The play is coming from ring gears but some play is normal at that mileage.
On the front one I had to replace the front u-joint twice in the past 12 years, about $ 15 at any parts store.

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Front or rear driveshaft ?
Some rotational play is ok. I am still on my original rear driveshaft and both differentials at 292k miles.
The play is coming from ring gears but some play is normal at that mileage.
On the front one I had to replace the front u-joint twice in the past 12 years, about $ 15 at any parts store.

Rear, I haven't checked the front since I don't use 4wd alot so I figured it should be okay. My mom has an expedition and I compared it to mine, it had absolutely zero play. But I would assume with wear and break in that it loosens up a bit

 

[Explorer_PL]

I can twist mine some when in park. Your front driveshaft spins regardless if you are in 4wd or 4auto so they are always in motion. Unless you hear excessive clunking while shifting into gear or taking of from a stop or you hear some humming from the differentials, I would not worry. Replace the fluids in both diffs and the transfer case, nobody does it ever but it should be done regularly.

 

[Bobmbx]

Its called backlash, and as long as the movement is rotational its ok. If it "rattles around" it would be an issue.

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Okay, yeah it's just rotational. I already have the fluids for the front differential and rear but I always get conflicting answers on which one to use for the transfer case so I haven't bought any yet. I also need to deal with all that damn rust. Wisconsin winters :/

 

[Explorer_PL]

I use 80W-90 for the front, 75W-140 for the rear, and Motorcraft transfer case fluid "XL-12".

 

[ThunderbirdSport]

I use 80W-90 for the front, 75W-140 for the rear, and Motorcraft transfer case fluid "XL-12".

This. Just did mine. Mine also has a little "twist" to it....mine's also right at 180K, and a V8 like the OP's ride.

Good to go. Bring on the winter. Or not. Let's just fast forward to spring...

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Anyone had any bad issues with rust? Mine definitely has a good amount underneath and it's starting to creep up under the doors under the weatherseal, should I even bother rust reforming it at this mileage? I already bought all the rust reform and just haven't gotten around to doing it cause I procrastinate.

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Front or rear driveshaft ?
Some rotational play is ok. I am still on my original rear driveshaft and both differentials at 292k miles.
The play is coming from ring gears but some play is normal at that mileage.
On the front one I had to replace the front u-joint twice in the past 12 years, about $ 15 at any parts store.

I just realized, 292k? What's your engine ?

 

[Explorer_PL]

We have 2 of them. Mine is 06 v8 with 293k as of now.
It's a long story...
At 200k it was making valve noise and I was told I need a new engine. Found one on line with 55k and with a friend we swapped it one Saturday. Started it up and it's making the same exact noise. It turned out it was the tourqe converter. So the following week we pulled the new engine again out for literally 3 minutes, swapped the TQ and put the new engine back. I still have the old perfectly good engine in my garage just as spare It was running smooth and strong, only at the red light it would make that noise. Should have known better .....

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Interesting. I've never heard of a v8 with that kind of mileage, makes me feel alot better about mine at almost 200k. Did you ever have to do the tensioners and guides? Any transmission issues other than the TC? And how is the body holding up if you live in the salt belt?
Don't mean to be a bother but I'm definitely interested now haha.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Ask away, happy to answer
I have one spot where the rust is showing up badly: passenger side rocker panel at the bottom of the rear/passenger door right before the wheel. I filled it up with some bondo and will have to do it every year to slow down the rust. When I opened up the front cover on the old engine originally thinking that the noise was coming from the phasers, I found that all the components were in good shape, the guides were still intact. The tensioners were weak and there was some slack in chains but that was at 200-205 k so it was expected. Otherwise, the old engine was still in time and I could easily get another 50k out of it if not more. That's why I am keeping it as a spare when the "new" one that has 150k on it already goes bad. The transmission is still original which is amazing considering that I pull trailer of all kinds and plow my driveway and neighbors with a light Fisher. Few years ago my transmission control module TCM was throwing "no communication" errors and Ford dealer diagnosed it that I need a new mechatronic (valve body) assembly. They wanted about 2500 for that. I bought a rebuilt one online for 500, replaced at home, and the errors kept coming back. After searching more online, I found out that bad coils will disturb the signal between PCM and TCM and throw that 900 code. I installed new Motorcraft coils and the problem was gone and never came back. So the tranny is still original save for the valve body which was also good, but replaced for no good reason (again - misdiagnosis as with the engine).

 

[Harley McIntyre]

Ask away, happy to answer
I have one spot where the rust is showing up badly: passenger side rocker panel at the bottom of the rear/passenger door right before the wheel. I filled it up with some bondo and will have to do it every year to slow down the rust. When I opened up the front cover on the old engine originally thinking that the noise was coming from the phasers, I found that all the components were in good shape, the guides were still intact. The tensioners were weak and there was some slack in chains but that was at 200-205 k so it was expected. Otherwise, the old engine was still in time and I could easily get another 50k out of it if not more. That's why I am keeping it as a spare when the "new" one that has 150k on it already goes bad. The transmission is still original which is amazing considering that I pull trailer of all kinds and plow my driveway and neighbors with a light Fisher. Few years ago my transmission control module TCM was throwing "no communication" errors and Ford dealer diagnosed it that I need a new mechatronic (valve body) assembly. They wanted about 2500 for that. I bought a rebuilt one online for 500, replaced at home, and the errors kept coming back. After searching more online, I found out that bad coils will disturb the signal between PCM and TCM and throw that 900 code. I installed new Motorcraft coils and the problem was gone and never came back. So the tranny is still original save for the valve body which was also good, but replaced for no good reason (again - misdiagnosis as with the engine).

Wow okay so these are pretty damn reliable SUVs, that's really good to know. I'll probably endup doing timing around 200k just as preventative maintenance, I know it's a pita so I would rather do it when I plan rather than when I hear the noise. I'm the 3rd owner of my ex so I'm assuming it was probably beat up a bit before I had it as a teenager drove it before me. Not too bad on the rust, mine hasn't gotten to that point yet but when I look under the vehicle, brake lines and transmission cooler lines are pretty rusty but not extremely, the rear concerns me though because especially on the body it's pretty rusted from all the salt that gets thrown by the rear tires. Did you ever have any surging rpm issues around 30-50mph? I get that when I'm in cruise control around those speeds or I get a shutter when I give it very light throttle around 30mph. I also have the rough shift issue but I'm pretty sure that it just needs a software update. Ford keeps saying there's nothing wrong with it though I wonder why considering they said the "technician" basically floored it the whole time. Wonder if I can just demand an update.

 

[Dan'sBlueEB]

I use 80W-90 for the front, 75W-140 for the rear, and Motorcraft transfer case fluid "XL-12".

The transfer case lube has been changed as of the first of the year. I am going to change the fluid and started doing some research. The XL-12 has gotten very expensive, the cheapest for 2 qts. was $44. Mercon LV/ XT-10-QLVC is the now recommended fluid. There are sites all over that will verify this. See the link:
MERCON® LV Automatic Transmission Fluid