1997 "white" 4.0 SOHC primary and D side secondary chain guide repair-Fill neck hose replace-

[donalds]

@allmyEXes 4.0 SOHC Timing Noise
The manual one will work just fine in the front
Why not
Adjusting is a pain tho but that will be rare another option is a manual automatic mechanical one https://www.amazon.com/Polaris-1000-Automatic-Cam-Tensioner/dp/B017WS46TI

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Ca...T6FS14WJEET&psc=1&refRID=XZBRY0VD6T6FS14WJEET

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks donalds. If I knew running length of the front tensioner I would adjust it, install it and the reassemble the rest of the top of the engine.

 

[donalds]

Remember the final adjustment needs to be made while the engine is running
Unless it's like one in the links above
I suppose it can be adjusted while the spark plug s are out and someone spins the motor with the starter

 

[allmyEXes]

I think that I might could adjust it before the thermostat housing goes on and antifreeze goes in, with the engine running that is.

 

[allmyEXes]

I would remove the cylinder head Saturday however rain or worse is coming. Southeast of us in the gulf is a tropical depression brewing and northwest of us is a cold front making its way across the central U.S. I'm hoping that they don't meet over north Alabama or the weather cold get quite rocky.

 

[allmyEXes]

The first manual adjustable tensioner arrived today. I can adjust out to 2.5 inches or 63.5 mm. Possibly 64mm.

 

[koda2000]

Is there a reason you're thinking about removing the cylinder head? I can vouch for the fact that cracking the TTY bolts loose isn't the easiest thing I've ever done. Strong T55 1/2" torx socket, 24" breaker bar, a 24" length of pipe and a lot of mussel. About the time you feel like something is going to break the bolts begin to come loose with a CRACK.

On the plus side, having the head off does make removing the cassette really easy.

 

[allmyEXes]

The cylinder head needs 3 bent exhaust valves replaced. All 3 cylinder are leaking through the exhaust system. hope that the valve seats are ok.
2 weeks ago 2 of us broke the head bolts a loose. You are correct in you explanation as to what to expect. I had purchased a name brand T-55 and E-12
ADDED: 10-23-19. I am still postponing removing the cylinder head until after the next round of rain this Fri, Sat and Sunday. I'm gathering everything needed for the head repair because while I have help I want to remove it, repair it, install it and torque it down all in the same work session. I'm working on it outside so I don't want to leave the head off overnight.

 

[allmyEXes]

Well the past 2 or so days I worked on the white '97 a little. I look back and Oct 22nd was the last time I had worked on it. Thank goodness for my post having to do with the project/job. I go back from time to time and see what I have already done and even the parts that I have bought. Friday I realized that I don't have any of the intake gaskets and it looks like I am going to need an exhaust manifold gasket if it uses them. I think that I see one down there. When the rain stopped me today I had one last manifold nut and stud to go. Space is limited down around the steering sector and I'm hoping to just leave the exhaust manifold hanging while the head is off. Winter storm "Gage" has almost passed through and it is only rain and storms here. I think it may still be near 60*F here. Wacky weather for Dec 2019 in north Alabama. Tomorrow after breakfast the last exhaust manifold bolt is coming out and then the cylinder head. More after that!

 

[donalds]

Yes you will need exhaust gaskets mine has em ...Felpro...

Make sure no mice get inside your exhaust etc...
While it's sitting

 

[allmyEXes]

Thanks for reminding me. I need a couple of strips of duct tape across the exhaust manifold and some rags stuffed intake holes of the passenger side head!

 

[allmyEXes]

I'm back to working on the '97 white 4.0 SOHC. I was unsuccessful on the broke spark plug on the '97 5.0 MM. That will be next after I'm done with this one.
I have one exhaust bolt to take out and the manifold will be loose. This morning I ordered a pair of high quality exhaust manifold gaskets and the 2 P.S. hoses and P.S.pump seal kit for the '94 that I have to make road worthy enough to drive it while the 2 '97s are be repaired.
QUESTION: I'm sure that the secondary chain guide is attached to the head somehow. Do I take out a bolt and leave the guide and the chain hanging while I lift of the cylinder head. I want to get it off of there and cleaned up and install new valves and reinstall it before the weekend is over.

 

[koda2000]

I was able to easily remove my SOHC cyl heads leaving the timing chains/cassettes hanging in the block. This makes removing than replacing the timing chain cassettes easy (well, easier with the engine out for the passenger side). It's actually harder to remove the old cassettes (and install the new ones) with the heads on, as part of the cassette must be forced out thru the narrow part of the head. The replacement cassettes come apart to make installation easier.

 

[allmyEXes]

OK. So while the head is off I need to change the timing chain guide/cassette while the head is off? I want to retain my original FoMoCo timing chain .I would think that the chain and guide can be worked with seperately.

 

[koda2000]

OK. So while the head is off I need to change the timing chain guide/cassette while the head is off? I want to retain my original FoMoCo timing chain .I would think that the chain and guide can be worked with seperately.

It's not necessary to remove the head to replace the chain and or cassette (whatever combination you plan on using) but doing whatever with the head off makes it easier as the old cassette/guide parts get ruined while trying to force them through the head. Watch fordtechmakuloco's 4-part YouTube video on the 4.0L SOHC timing chains. It will make the issues clear.

BTW - I question your discussion to reuse the old chains, but if that's your choice...

 

[allmyEXes]

I have the left side cylinder head off of the block. A tip for those who have never done this before, If all of the bolts are removed it will come right off. The type of gasket used doesn't make the head stick to the block. With all the bolts out I barely pushed on it and it moved.
Now i'm to the part of changing the valve stem seals and valves. My spring compressing and follower removal tool won't work for this. I have a "U" shaped tool that wrap around the head and puts pressure on the bottom of the valve and the other end pushes down on the spring retainer so that the keeper can be removed. It will not work on this cylinder head. There is a clearance issue. It was designed for conventional V-8 cylinder heads without a cam on top of the head.
QUESTION-What does the tool that I need look like or what tool do I need and where do I Get one.

 

[drdoom]

Don't they make a tool that hooks under the camshaft?

 

[allmyEXes]

I have the tool that hooks under the camshaft but it wont work for what I am doing. I need something to hold the valve up while I put pressure on the spring retainer.

Here is a picture of the tool that I have that wont work.

 

[allmyEXes]

I removed the broken left cassette/chain guide and installed the replacement one.
(Picture of new guides etc on page 5)
Here is a pic of the old one. I found most of the pieces to it. The new one has more metal in it than the old one.

 

[drdoom]

Yeah I got a lot of pieces out of the oil pan. I didn't think I would find them all but I did.