Mountaineer to Car Transplant

[JRMclemore]

Ever feel like you are being punished or curse with frustration, failure and financial stress every time you start a DIY project.

If I were borderlines superstitious, I would be full-on-superstitious right now.

I started my first post with the idea of turning my mountaineer into a custom sports car. Both time and money were a expected to restore the suspension and make a few modifications. Likewise , the transformation from SUV to car would not be cheap. But since I started this , it seems like problems are popping up and eating money before I can even get the project started.

The transmission has started to engage hard into reverse, Down shift prematurely when stopping and now a slight jarring when shifting. Since I will be swapping from automatic to manual, I just have to do is keep it going til the project starts.

Noticed tire wear on the front driver's wheel, clunking and creaking sounds and will not drive a straight line. Yeah, ball joint. No problem. Just get disconnect the tie rod and spindle, press out the ball joint, press in the new one, reassemble spindle and tie rod, check the alignment and enjoy your work.....

I had to replace the ball joint and the $30 ball joint from O'Riley's would have gotten me to project day with the least cost. So far this has been a frustrating string of struggles. Seriously , everything came loose without much effort until I came to the lower Ball joint. Okay, this was expected. Everything I have read to prepare myself warned of the effort the lower Ball joint would likely require.

Long story short,
Every step after that has been frustrating and time consuming.

Multiple trips back to the auto parts store to barrow tools. Starting with the pickle fork. After reading several posts from others who had removed it without a pickle fork, I quickly found out that I would not be one of them.

Next the ball joint press. Ball joint came out without much of a fight. However, putting it back in was challenge by the lack of clearance to get the c-lamp 2 inserts and 2 sleeves lined up to press it back in. So I went back to O'RILEY'S to get another (mid sized) sleeve. I really thought it's shorter length would gain me enough clearance to setup and press. uh, no such luck. I literally has to improvise with some metal pieces from my garage that were never intended or design for what I was doing with them. However, I was able to move the ball joint just enough to get the upper set of sleeve and insert pieces started. From there I have to hammer the prices until the were center and could receive the pressing screw/bolt. Finally got the ball joint seated, nut tightened , cotter pin attached and grease fitting inserted.
From that minute forward it has been a fight every inch of the way.

I am finally down to an upper ball joint and a tie rod end that spins freely while tightening. Although I know how to get the tightened , I am tired, sore and exhausted. It will wait til Tomorrow.

Should be done just in time to leave for work.......

 

[donalds]

 

[JRMclemore]

Literally, done just in time to leave for work.....

 

[imp]

You'd be better off the v8 swapping a Ford Focus. Use an Explorer frame there's no way to get that light. The engine weighs 650, trans is 300, accessories on engine another 100. Right there your over 1000 and haven't considered tcase, diffs, driveshafts and the frame itself. Id assume the rolling frame by itself with v8 AWD drivetrain would be 2300-2500 lbs.

@boominXplorer
I once cut up a '67 Mustang, removing the entire body. I can tell you, that sheet metal surprised me by being one HEAVY S.O.B.! imp

 

[GodStang]

2010 Mustang GT is still the 3V and low 300s in power. I would opt for 2011 and up witch is the Coyote 4V.

Ummm, seems like a lot of work, fab, money, time, and pipe dreams.

Or, the quick answer, buy yourself a 2010 up Mustang GT.


The 4th gen Explorer/Mounty is a body on frame vehicle (along with all previous generations) and most cars today if not all are unibody.

Also the 4th gens are all 4wd/RWD,most cars are FWD, exceptions being the Mustang.


A 2010 Stang GT has more power/less weight and obviously better handling than ANY midsize V8 SUV, save for a Porsche Cayenne, maybe (IDK much about those..)

I'm building an '84 Stang coupe...gonna put a 5.0 from a 2017 Mustang in it...eventually. It's a costly project. I've got the shell, the suspension, and the fuel tank thus far. Already 1800 bucks deep LOL.

I'll pay that much again just for the engine and management :O

 

[JRMclemore]

I did a toe alignment of the front end today and while test driving, the check engine light suddenly shut off.

After months of searching and checking all the usual suspects and some off the wall guesses, it just shuts off unexpectedly.

I am not aware of any connection between tire alignment and CEL.

 

[JRMclemore]

A solution for lowering my suspension has been found. No cutting, clamping, torching or swapping with lower springs.....

I am having 4 parts made over the next 2 weeks. I am betting that only a minor camber adjustment will be needed after install.


Edit:
So, It sucks to make bolds statements only to learn something contrary afterwards....


Turns out some cutting will be required for fitment of new/custom parts.

 

[michael loibl]

How about a mustang nose and doors with a ranger 6 foot bed on the back. Modern day Ranchero?

 

[JRMclemore]

A mustancho.

Probably sell as well as the dodge (station wagon) Magnum. I'm surprised that the ford (hearse) flex is selling.

 

[michael loibl]

I still laugh that years ago Ford made the special pimped out Funk Master Flex Expedition, but not a Funk Master Flex Flex