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Strange Wire

liamdrien

Member
Joined
December 9, 2018
Messages
22
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2
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Ford Explorer EB
Hi everyone and thanks for looking, I found this odd wire that goes to a single blade connector that I have absolutely no idea what it is for. It appears the connector itself is snapped off of something. I have a 2005 Explorer with the 4.6l engine. This wire is taped in with the coil pack wires and is white with a blue stripe. Any help is much appreciated. I'm attaching pictures to the post also. Thanks again.

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Thank you very much, Joe in NY. You are a lifesaver, I looked all over Alldata and elsewhere without finding what that thing was. Just out of curiosity, if that isolator is missing what kind of issues might I have? Thanks again.
 






Am I correct in thinking it's just for reducing electronic noise to the radio? If so, can I just tape it off so there's no bare wire hanging out? Thanks
 






It's to reduce noise for everything in the electrical system. It would be best to grab another one or simply install a common electronics capacitor in its place. The noise emitted can interfere with every computer in the car. (which is a lot of computers!)
 






Thanks Joe, will do if I can find the thing. I may have to resort to going to a junkyard for it. Thanks again
 






Junk yard will be perfectly fine. Capacitors last decades and usually only fall out of spec for high tolerance applications.

The junk yard near me is filled with 3rd gen explorers. A few 2nd & 4th but just littered with 3rd gens. Stupid easy to find anything you need.
 






I went through 4 explorers that were all 2004-2006 and someone had taken all of the wiring harnesses out including that piece....just my luck. Then it crossed my mind, I wonder if an expedition around same year would have it....sure enough there it was and easier to take loose than it was on my Explorer even the same part number as mine has on it. Thanks again Joe!
 






On a different note, should my air filter tray have a whole that you can see through to the ground? It's situated near the middle on the side closest to the coolant reservoir and looks like something should be in it. Thanks again.
 






On a different note, should my air filter tray have a whole that you can see through to the ground? It's situated near the middle on the side closest to the coolant reservoir and looks like something should be in it. Thanks again.
Show us a picture?
 






Sorry, I was going to do this but have been busy. Attaching pictures to this post, I've removed the air filter box from the vehicle. It appears there should be some plugs that go in these and that one has been busted out before I purchased this vehicle. Would this cause my Explorer not to idle correctly because of to much air? Can I just plug this hole?

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That's a hole that is not supposed to be there. Mice or water/snow/crud might get in, but it won't be unmetered air, so will not affect idle. You could get a replacement box at the junkyard, or better yet just use some epoxy (e.g., JB Weld) to patch it.
 






Thanks for the information Drewmcg. Just some background on my 2005 Explorer with the v8 and what prompted all of this. Originally I started with overheating at idle which went from being at idle to all of the time so I checked the normal things, the hoses for cracks and the radiator for hot spots. I found nothing with these, I did find that it seemed my water pump wasn't pumping correctly so I replaced that, after putting it up on a lift at a friends, I noticed coolant leaking (more like steady trickle of coolant) coming from top of engine. I bought the kit to check for fuel fumes in the coolant lines which showed there were none. I then pulled everything apart thinking maybe I had a crack in the intake manifold that I couldn't see and sure enough there was a crack right under where the thermostat went, it was only visible from the bottom of the intake manifold plenum. I replaced this and now my vehicle won't idle without pulling the electrical connector to the MAF sensor, I replaced it since after testing with both Forscan and a multimeter the voltage it was showing was way off (under a volt) at all times.

I also pulled the pcv valve and hose since my hose didn't clip correctly and the pcv valve was absolutely caked with oil. I tried to clean it but it didn't help and since it was only a $7 part I replaced it as well as the pcv hose that didn't clip since the clip was missing. I knew my EGR valve was bad also since one of the vacuum nipples was completely broken and the other one had a crack in it so I replaced it also with a motorcraft one from Rockauto. I cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner also. I then proceeded to reset the computer with a video on here, and still it will not idle with the MAF sensor plugged in. I sprayed starting fluid around the vacuum lines very liberally, this had no effect at all. With the MAF sensor unplugged it idles but extremely roughly, I also checked the conduit coming from the air filter box to make sure it wasn't clogged or anything of this nature. I'm not throwing any codes related to fuel or anything, just some for air bags being deployed which I believe came from whoever owned it before myself. I've been trying to track down anything that was off or broken and these two pieces were the last 2 things I could find that are broken or just missing. At this point I'm out of ideas, I greatly appreciate any help or suggestions to try to resolve this. I'm going to get a vacuum tester as it seems that I should have this anyways really for the future and try to test for vacuum pressure elsewhere, where would be the best place for me to do this on this vehicle?
 






Let the car run without the MAF and go for a short drive. If it wont run with the MAF then most likely the MAF is faulty. ECUs use the MAF as the #1 reference for fuel. Without it present it defaults to throttle, MAP, O2s
 






Hey Joe, I know the old MAF I had was faulty. I replaced it, what's the chance even with it reading correct voltage that the new one is faulty also?
 












Thanks for the insights on the breather box Drew, I appreciate it. I will do some more testing on the MAF once my breather box has fully cured. I took your suggestion Drew and found some heavy plastic with some jb weld plastic weld and sealed that hole. Joe, out of curiosity is it possible the signal wire might be broken or something causing it to misread? Thanks again you two, I greatly appreciate all of the help.
 






Joe's the V-8 expert. I'm a SOHC guy . . . .

Well both motors are SOHC soooo haha

Anything is possible. Do you have an OBDII scanner? A $20 bluetooth OBDII device and the $5 Forscan app will show and tell all sorts for any Ford.
 






Hey Joe, yes I do. It's how I originally tested the voltage coming from the maf sensor and then I manually tested with a volt meter. What would I be looking for exactly? Thanks again.
 



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I pulled loose the plug for MAF sensor and it does run and drive it's just really rough and the engine wants to surge tested wires for MAF for ohms to see if there was a break in them and didn't find anything. So...had the MAF loose and thought I might check again for vacuum leaks with started fluid and didn't find anything until I sprayed what I believe to be one of the vapor hoses off the canister purge valve and it will rev up. It's only in a single spot on that line, I sprayed up and down it to no effect but at a certain spot it makes the engine rev up. Would this cause bad idle? If so what's the best way to replace/repair this hose? The hose comes off of one of these on the driver side: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS CP596
 






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