nope, no other pieces to the puzzle. Those two pieces will make you 28oz ready. As long as you get confirmation the motor is 28oz your good.
Now, the bad news.......
The absolute right thing to do is pull the crank out of the motor with a piston and rod. Then take the flex plate, damper, crank, rod, and piston to a good machine shop so they can balance the crank perfectly to the pieces.
@vroomzoomboom ran in to a balance issue when he changed his damper and had to do this.
You'll figure the compression based on the piston to deck height, the rods don't affect that. Measure how far down the piston is at TDC, .025" etc. That figure is part of the compression calculation.Thread necro apologies...
I may have a line on a 347 shortblock to use in place of my screwed up 5.0. Assuming everything's in good condition and the final price is right - can someone confirm what I'd need to get it in place?
28 ounce main pulley with the Explorer crank trigger - looks like I can get that from DamperDudes for about $200.
28 ounce flex plate that matches the starter. Not sure on the source on that yet...
Assuming I run the stock GT40P heads and intake, what else does that leave? I'd eventually get a tune, and may need to sort out a larger MAF and/or injectors, but those are easy to sort out later in the process. I'm trying to confirm what piston and rod setup the 347 is set up with so I can figure out compression ratio...
wowee good info here you guys are like a SBF stroker database for explorer dudes we are lucky to have ya!
I have an off topic question
Suppose you had a 5.0 explorer engine 2000 model to be exact. And you want to use an aftermarket PCM to control the engine and the PCM is built for Mustang TFI ignition.
You don't want to put a distributor in your engine:
How do, or what is the best way to keep coil pack or coil near plug ignition? using the aftermarket PCM that was designed for the TFI ignition
The goal is to retain (hopefully) the explorer cam synchro and crank sensors.