The Black Pearls LM7 5.3 LS SWAP! | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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The Black Pearls LM7 5.3 LS SWAP!

SO I guess the time has came early for my 5.3L LS swap on The Black Pearl!!

LET THE HATE BEGIN!!!

I have a buddy that is a drag-racer but started working for a ****ty speed shop in the area and now he is burnt out from engines and all that; He is getting into guns and i have built a few ARs. We did some talking the other weekend and we figured that one of my ARs is worth about the same as his 400-450 horse Gen3 LM7 (706 heads, Gen4 internals. Titanium valve springs, retainers and guides)

Currently the piston rings are gaped and it has a cam setup for spray but he just hadn't gotten around to get nitro setup in the car yet. This is in a late 80s Monte Carlo BTW.

This are some pictures i loaded on my SAS build thread so i will post them up here to keep it all in one place.

General LS pic.jpg
This is just a general picture i found on google but thats pretty much the setup i am getting.

I have some 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds that will be used (IF they fit!) that he threw in as well.

I went to the wrecking yard last weekend and picked up a 2000 tahoe fuseblock, harness, MAF and PCM for $40.65 out the door.
Junkyard harness.jpg

Started pulling it apart and removing ALL un-needed circuits, Factory fuse block, A/C, EVAP, Trans and a few other circuits.

harness remains.jpg


i also added a few circuits such as a secondary ground circuit for the Taurus 2-speed fan i have installed. The fans are controlled by the PCM, the PCM sends ground to the fan relays to turn them on/off at set temps (that will be programmed into the PCM when it gets tuned).

This is what we have left:
My harness.jpg


To clean things up in the engine bay i am going to use a Corvette style fuel system. There is no fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, it in in-line on the frame rail. It also uses a return-less system incorporated into the fuel filter, with the regulator.

Screenshot_2019-01-03-12-27-01.png

450 is overkill but this pump is a direct for to the explorer in-tank fuel pump according to Walbro.

This fuel filter will replace the factory Explorer fuel filter. It is a Corvette fuel filter with a built in fuel pressure regulator. With a return line back to the tank for unused fuel.
Filter regulator.JPG


These engines require 60PSI fuel pressure and the 1gen explorers are only pushing around 30-40 PSI.
 



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I am thinking i might cut the top of the core support.

Looks like a simple section of C-Channel or Angle iron would work nicely. Get rid of the hood latch (i need to replace my broken hood pins anyways) and run gas hood struts ( i think JD sells them for the RBVs)

Thinking that being able to unbolt the upper core support would come in very handy at times.

I didn't measure it last night like i should have, but is there a problem with the physical size of the 4.0 radiator fitting in the core support? Does the core support have to be moved up or down (depending on which one you cut)

I can look when i get off work, but figured id ask if you knew a quick answer
 



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only place that gets cut is here at the red line
basically on the inside of the body mount you leave 2-3" for a "shelf" and to clear the frame rail.



171_022129_420000000.jpg


That is all we cut
On my BII I also cut out the center support and about 2" from each side of the sheet metal, because I had a larger (wider) radiator in there at one point

On Darth Ranger we welded the new bracket on, in my BII it is bolted so can be removed
No other mods were made to the upper bar of the core support, you could of course remove the whole middle then you would not have to drop the radiator down much at all. We dropped our rad about 3" so the cap can easily fit under the core support. Now that I have a tig welder I could actually remove the filler neck and close the tank up.

I use plastic bits to close up ALL GAPS so air is forced to flow through the whole cooling stack, trans cooler, ac cooler and finally radiator.
 






Nice. That looks pretty easy.
 






20191103_135234.jpg

Decided to pull the engine tonight.

Thinking I am going to buy a new gearbox while everything is out.

Time to start cleaning and degrease everything, and start cleaning up all the engine bay wiring.
 






15729195224324732076757869926646.jpg
I'd say that made a little bit of difference.
15729196202557072629759166771196.jpg
this little guy in a 2.5 gal jug of straight brake parts cleaner. Basically a pressure washer with brake clean in it.

Hoooolllly **** the fumes. Even with the doors all the way open, time to go sit down lol
 












Yeah I'm feeling it lol
 






I know i have a steering gear rebuild kit in the back of the rig. It has been there since i bought it several years ago, I have no idea if it is for the explorer but cross referencing steering gears shows that they used these boxes in everything from RBVs to full size trucks and vans.

Thinking i am going to pull it apart and rebuild it, and drill/tap for hydro-assist while i am in there, and just plug the ports til the time comes to add a hydro-assist setup
 






Sounds like a plan, but if you find any slop in the ball bearing grooves, don't waste your time. It's not worth it.

Look into RedHead Steering Gears - Manual & Power Steering Gear Box when you get a chance. They also offer tapping the ports for you for an extra charge. They weld the bearing grooves back to original specs, and make a true rebuilt unit.
 






Sounds like a plan, but if you find any slop in the ball bearing grooves, don't waste your time. It's not worth it.

Look into RedHead Steering Gears - Manual & Power Steering Gear Box when you get a chance. They also offer tapping the ports for you for an extra charge. They weld the bearing grooves back to original specs, and make a true rebuilt unit.

Hard to tell right now with the steering setup.

I did checkout redhead, they dont offer a setup for the explorer, BUT with the cross reference i did, they may have a setup for the explorers and just not know it
 












2757: 1980-97 Ford F-Series With 2 Bolt Top Cover

Well between Advanced AutoParts fitment guide for the 1993 explorer, it also shows several vehicles from rangers to f450s using the same steering gear.

Just need to check the top cover (haven't paid attention) but wondering what the difference between the 2 bolt cover and the 3 top cover
 












:eek:
 






Sure I do let me go get them
its a 2 bolt

They ship it with a big ol tampon

171_091018_320000000.jpg


171_091018_330000001.jpg


171_091018_330000002.jpg
 






I pulled mine apart last night. Everything looks pretty good. I have a seal kit, no bearings so I might go pick them up.

I marked the port locations for drilling but didnt get it it last night
 






Picked up an automatic transmission for the rig last night.

TH400 from an 1983 K30 truck for 100 bucks. Pulled the pan off and everything looks damn good. It does have an adjustable Vacuum Modulator installed and the Torque converter shows 12/11/99 and everything looks really good.

Drained the fluid out of it and this is what was left in the drain pan (not the rag)
20191210_075502.jpg

Going with a reverse full manual valve body and Winters RockCrawler shifter.

Still unsure of what rebuild kit to go with, definitely going with a performance setup. The full manual VB will eliminate the vacuum modulator and the kickdown switch.
 






Nice! So that SOB was rebuilt at the end of the 90's with fluid like that, what a score!
th400 with manual valve body should be wicked cool
 






Yeah the guy i got it from said he has had it sitting in storage for about 10 years (climate controlled unit too!) and sold the Scout it was going to go in.

It had a NP208 bolted to it, i am going (Chevy)203 and (Ford) 205

Same spline count but the shaft is longer than what came with a 203, BUT you don't have to cut or replace the tail-shaft. So more spline engagement between the trans and t-case.

The th400 to Np203 adapter just needs to be redrilled... Wondering if i can clock it while im at it??
 



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From ORD:

Output sticks out ~2-1/2” from the end of the transmission case:

This is the factory output shaft for all TH400/NP208 and TH400/NP241 systems as well as TH400/NP205 systems from ’85-90.



How to use with Offroad Design 203/205 doubler: Use TH400/NP208 adapter.
Drill/tap six bolt transfer case pattern into face of NP203, plug up stock holes and make a tab to hold down the idler shaft.
 






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