1999 Ford Explorer problems - help? Fixed..not fixed.. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Unfortunately, there wasn't much in the way of new information in your latest post to help us point you in the right direction. I will help clear up some of your misconceptions.

#1) the Inertia Switch doesn't flip on and off on it's own. If something causes it to trip to the OFF position, you must manually reset it. That's not to say there couldn't be a faulty connection within the wiring harness or connector that is causing an intermittent interruption of signal to the fuel pump.

#2) the Coolant Temp Sensor isn't an indicator of an overheating engine. It's function is to monitor the coolant temperature and send information to the PCM so it can adjust fuel mixture for optimum engine performance. If it's defective, it could be telling the PCM to make the fuel mixture leaner or richer for current conditions and cause a crank/no-start condition.

#3) we still haven't established whether the fuel filter was ever changed.

#4) Find that scan reader in your garage if you aren't comfortable driving it somewhere to have it scanned for codes. Is your son available to scan it for you? Information from these is limited...but, right now anything is better than nothing. Or, if you are computer savvy there is an excellent free diagnostic software called Forscan available. You'll need to purchase a fairly inexpensive ELM327 interface to connect to your truck's computer port (under the steering column). People recommend buying the interface on Amazon from BAFX. You probably won't have any idea how to interpret much of the in-depth information available...but, you could share it with us and someone on here would know what it means and what to do.
 



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I was going to suggest a fuel filter. A friend has a Ford F250 that will start losing power and hard to start if he does not change fuel filter with every other oil change, about every two years. Moister in gas tank will over the years cause rust in the tank, debris getting into tank when you fill up tank, etc... Over time this will clog your filter, causing fuel restriction,causing hesitation and hard starts.
As for the fuel pump relay, hope this diagram helps.
Untitled.jpg
 






Unfortunately, there wasn't much in the way of new information in your latest post to help us point you in the right direction. I will help clear up some of your misconceptions.

#1) the Inertia Switch doesn't flip on and off on it's own. If something causes it to trip to the OFF position, you must manually reset it. That's not to say there couldn't be a faulty connection within the wiring harness or connector that is causing an intermittent interruption of signal to the fuel pump.

#2) the Coolant Temp Sensor isn't an indicator of an overheating engine. It's function is to monitor the coolant temperature and send information to the PCM so it can adjust fuel mixture for optimum engine performance. If it's defective, it could be telling the PCM to make the fuel mixture leaner or richer for current conditions and cause a crank/no-start condition.

#3) we still haven't established whether the fuel filter was ever changed.

#4) Find that scan reader in your garage if you aren't comfortable driving it somewhere to have it scanned for codes. Is your son available to scan it for you? Information from these is limited...but, right now anything is better than nothing. Or, if you are computer savvy there is an excellent free diagnostic software called Forscan available. You'll need to purchase a fairly inexpensive ELM327 interface to connect to your truck's computer port (under the steering column). People recommend buying the interface on Amazon from BAFX. You probably won't have any idea how to interpret much of the in-depth information available...but, you could share it with us and someone on here would know what it means and what to do.
Unfortunately, there wasn't much in the way of new information in your latest post to help us point you in the right direction. I will help clear up some of your misconceptions.

#1) the Inertia Switch doesn't flip on and off on it's own. If something causes it to trip to the OFF position, you must manually reset it. That's not to say there couldn't be a faulty connection within the wiring harness or connector that is causing an intermittent interruption of signal to the fuel pump.

#2) the Coolant Temp Sensor isn't an indicator of an overheating engine. It's function is to monitor the coolant temperature and send information to the PCM so it can adjust fuel mixture for optimum engine performance. If it's defective, it could be telling the PCM to make the fuel mixture leaner or richer for current conditions and cause a crank/no-start condition.

#3) we still haven't established whether the fuel filter was ever changed.

#4) Find that scan reader in your garage if you aren't comfortable driving it somewhere to have it scanned for codes. Is your son available to scan it for you? Information from these is limited...but, right now anything is better than nothing. Or, if you are computer savvy there is an excellent free diagnostic software called Forscan available. You'll need to purchase a fairly inexpensive ELM327 interface to connect to your truck's computer port (under the steering column). People recommend buying the interface on Amazon from BAFX. You probably won't have any idea how to interpret much of the in-depth information available...but, you could share it with us and someone on here would know what it means and what to do.
 






XLTrunner...ugh..okay..frustrated. My kid's outta state but trying to diagnose over the phone. Says go ahead and change fuel filter and relay..and if that's not it, it's gonna be crank shaft position sensor. I have the relay and filter. Kid said Mom, super easy, you can do it yourself. Told me where it's located, ect. We have a family friend that *knows everything* and he took over everything, but came today and said I need a special tool and that every drop of gas in my tank is gonna sypon (?) out on me and that clip looking thing that's I guess holding it in place might break..IDK, all kinds of kinda scary stuff. My Son didn't say all that but he's at work so I can't ask til tomorrow. Seriously..I don't even see where I would need a tool. And yes, I jacked it up and got under too late and dark to do it now but friend discouraged me so much, that I did nothing. Friend said..*you don't know if that's a quick release (forgot what it's called) or not and blah..blah..blah..He scared me off doing it, but I swear..it looked like I could just disconnect the old 1, slide it outta that clip to not break clip, and just put the new in same way i got the old out. Google doesn't say anything about the entire gas tank pouring out on me and neither did my Son. He did tell me to try to do it without being directly underneath, like, with just my hands under and not my face since I can't lift the car up cuz gas will leak out, but is it REALLY the entire tank? I wanted to do it myself. I've NEVER even put water or oil in ANY of my vehicles. Somebody has always done it for me. I'm not working, I have nothing but time..I wanted to work on my car. What my Son said was super easy and looks super easy..now is some kinda big deal..Is it?
 






First of all, you DO need a quick connect release tool in order to release the fuel lines from both ends of the fuel filter. There is a bit of a trick to using the tool to release them, too. For someone who has never worked on their own vehicle, this probably isn't the best place to get their feet wet. However, if you want to try, there are many YouTube videos on how to change a Ford Explorer/Ranger filter. Also, your "family friend" is wrong in that the clips on either end of the filter are just backup safety clips to prevent any chance the fuel lines should come apart unexpectedly and has nothing to do with how the fuel lines disconnect from the filter. In other words, it's not a big deal if one should break off...which I seriously doubt they would. He's also wrong in stating all the gas will siphon out of the tank. After the pressure is relieved, you might get a slight spray...but, usually no more than a little dribble of gas when the lines come off the filter. That's why you wear some eye protection, have some rags ready and try to keep your head clear of the drip area. You can relieve the pressure by either pulling the Fuel Relay from the junction box under the hood or manually tripping the Inertia Switch then starting the truck and letting it run for a few seconds until it dies. I simply allow my truck to sit for a day and the pressure is relieved by that time.
 






First of all, you DO need a quick connect release tool in order to release the fuel lines from both ends of the fuel filter. There is a bit of a trick to using the tool to release them, too. For someone who has never worked on their own vehicle, this probably isn't the best place to get their feet wet. However, if you want to try, there are many YouTube videos on how to change a Ford Explorer/Ranger filter. Also, your "family friend" is wrong in that the clips on either end of the filter are just backup safety clips to prevent any chance the fuel lines should come apart unexpectedly and has nothing to do with how the fuel lines disconnect from the filter. In other words, it's not a big deal if one should break off...which I seriously doubt they would. He's also wrong in stating all the gas will siphon out of the tank. After the pressure is relieved, you might get a slight spray...but, usually no more than a little dribble of gas when the lines come off the filter. That's why you wear some eye protection, have some rags ready and try to keep your head clear of the drip area. You can relieve the pressure by either pulling the Fuel Relay from the junction box under the hood or manually tripping the Inertia Switch then starting the truck and letting it run for a few seconds until it dies. I simply allow my truck to sit for a day and the pressure is relieved by that time.
Thank you. Yeah..i talked to my Son. He said same as you. I'll figure it out tomorrow. Hopefully, it's that. Car starts right up every time and driving me crazy cuz I just don't know when it's gonna work a few days and when I'm gonna be stranded but gonna see if they can diagnose tomorrow. Last time there were no codes. Thanx for your help. I'll post the outcome..
 






I was going to suggest a fuel filter. A friend has a Ford F250 that will start losing power and hard to start if he does not change fuel filter with every other oil change, about every two years. Moister in gas tank will over the years cause rust in the tank, debris getting into tank when you fill up tank, etc... Over time this will clog your filter, causing fuel restriction,causing hesitation and hard starts.
As for the fuel pump relay, hope this diagram helps.
View attachment 175665
 






rasouth...Perfect Thank you !!
I was going to suggest a fuel filter. A friend has a Ford F250 that will start losing power and hard to start if he does not change fuel filter with every other oil change, about every two years. Moister in gas tank will over the years cause rust in the tank, debris getting into tank when you fill up tank, etc... Over time this will clog your filter, causing fuel restriction,causing hesitation and hard starts.
As for the fuel pump relay, hope this diagram helps.
View attachment 175665
 






rasouth...Perfect. Thank you so much. Hopefully..this takes care of it. It's starting right up everytime, but it's been doing that. Even runs for days with me turning it off wherever I go. Then leaves me stranded. I feel like if I leave it sit for hours or over nite wherever it decides not to start anymore, that it will start again but it's usually a grocery store, Post Office, someplace that probably won't want a car there over nite. Right now, I just drive and reverse in my drive-way lol, but I'm going stir crazy being stuck, and hate needing rides. My son, (21) says if that's not it, it's crank shaft position sensor, so 2 say that now..I'll post results. Thank you so much..
 












Donald's..I'm just taking it to a shop to be put on in the morning, but out of curiosity, what is the tool called? and what is it doing there? On my phone it looks like it's somehow connected to the filter, but underneath whatever those things that protrude are called. That's the part that goes into the hose right? OMG..IF they're called hoses..lol..I would Google that to use the right terminology, but I'm so tired. Thank you for showing me as well. I was wondering if any of that was true cuz of the gas statement.
 






Fuel line disconnect tools. Many different styles and some work better than others.

If you're experiencing intermittent starting problems it's probably time to replace your fuel pump.
 






If you're experiencing intermittent starting problems it's probably time to replace your fuel pump.[/QUOTE]

OP says she's already had 3 fuel pumps installed in a short time span...but, doesn't recall anything being said about having installed a new filter during any one of those replacements.
 






If you're experiencing intermittent starting problems it's probably time to replace your fuel pump.

OP says she's already had 3 fuel pumps installed in a short time span...but, doesn't recall anything being said about having installed a new filter during any one of those replacements.[/QUOTE]

Oh okay. I did not read that the fuel pump had been replaced multiple times. In my experience, a clogged fuel filter typically will first display as the engine running lean, or while accelerating and not as an intermittent no-start issue. Can't hurt to change the filter, but I suspect something else is going on. If not the pump than something electrical (wiring, relay, bad connection, inertia switch related maybe). Do we know what brand of fuel pumps were installed? It's known that AirTex brand pumps crap out pretty quickly.
 












Koda2000, yes..as XLTrunner said. I've had fuel pump replaced 3 times and.I thought it was that again cuz it pretty.much did the same except it didn't last this long with the random starts/no starts. I did find the inerta switch button last no nite and am gonna look at it today in daylight cuz my daughter did back into it pretty hard on passenger side. It started.right up in the freezing cold last nite at 3am..and everyday except for 1 the past week. I am wondering about the anti-theft light and started a new thread. I haven't driven the car since being towed..I believe, last Monday. I will be taking the car to get the fuel filter replaced and I also bought a relay. Had a family crisis last nite and no sleep, so i need a couple before I do that and I will ask the mechanics if they can do a diagnostic. I'll post results. Thank you
 






Koda2000, yes..as XLTrunner said. I've had fuel pump replaced 3 times and.I thought it was that again cuz it pretty.much did the same except it didn't last this long with the random starts/no starts. I did find the inerta switch button last no nite and am gonna look at it today in daylight cuz my daughter did back into it pretty hard on passenger side. It started.right up in the freezing cold last nite at 3am..and everyday except for 1 the past week. I am wondering about the anti-theft light and started a new thread. I haven't driven the car since being towed..I believe, last Monday. I will be taking the car to get the fuel filter replaced and I also bought a relay. Had a family crisis last nite and no sleep, so i need a couple before I do that and I will ask the mechanics if they can do a diagnostic. I'll post results. Thank you

The inertia switch trips if your car gets bumped hard or in a accident. This is a safety device. When tripped it turns off power to the fuel pump, however it does not reset itself automatically, you must reset it manually. It's like a circuit breaker in your home. One thing to look at is the electrical connector plug to the inertia switch. We've seen them get dirty/burnt and not allow power to flow through them even when the switch is not tripped. Similarly the fuel pump relay in the Power Distribution Box can have a poor connection due to corroded or loose terminals where it plugs in. If your truck doesn't start you can try wiggling the relay and the plug at the inertia switch to see of doing either makes a difference. You don't need to buy a new relay to see if replacing it would make any difference. You can just swap the fuel pump relay with a non-vital one (like your A/C relay). As long as the relay you select looks the same (same number of pins) as the fuel pump relay it's the same. With the FP relay removed, take a good flashlight and look into were the relay's pin plug in. If anything looks burnt or green from corrosion you likely have a bad connection.

Lastly, do you live in an area where mice. rats or squirrels have been known to chew on automotive electrical wires? If so and you see turds on top of your engine, you may have chewed wires. Visual inspect your wires to see if any appear to have been chewed. This includes the wires running under the truck back to to the fuel tank.
 






OP says she's already had 3 fuel pumps installed in a short time span...but, doesn't recall anything being said about having installed a new filter during any one of those replacements.

Oh okay. I did not read that the fuel pump had been replaced multiple times. In my experience, a clogged fuel filter typically will first display as the engine running lean, or while accelerating and not as an intermittent no-start issue. Can't hurt to change the filter, but I suspect something else is going on. If not the pump than something electrical (wiring, relay, bad connection, inertia switch related maybe). Do we know what brand of fuel pumps were installed? It's known that AirTex brand pumps crap out pretty quickly.[/QUOTE]
 






koda2000 no. I have no idea what brand/kind of fuel pumps they were..the guy that put them in is actually a whiz at electrical. Mechanics bring their clients vehicles to him from different areas when they can't find the problem for trouble shooting, but they say he's a super crappy mechanic, is that weird? Knowing where he purchases parts from, I'd say they were low quality, cheap parts. I KNOW...each time I needed a fuel pump, it was due to me driving the car with less than a quarter tank. NEVER on E, just less than a quarter. It acted just like it is now, but maybe just for the day. THIS has been going on since Oct and I DID run it on E. For a week..anytime I had to go anywhere, I'd put approx $5 in it. Of course the needle barely moved, or didn't move at all and driving like that stressed me being beyond measure, but due to circumstances beyond my control, I had no choice but to drive it like that. At the same time, my daughter did back into it with enough force to cause a significant dent and pop the door lock out. So I kept thinking, 1 or the other was causing the problem, but I'm not gonna lie, that car has had years of neglect, so who knows
I just dropped it off to have fuel filter replaced and fuel filter relay. Started up immediately. Drove good, but at 1 point, felt as if it was going to loose power. The engine is so quiet, the mechanic told me to see if it would start The check engine light is STILL off after being on over a year. Mechanic said without that light on plus running good, they won't be able to diagnose cuz it won't throw a code like that. I sooo hope it's just the fuel filter. The last fuel pump was years ago, so even if it WAS changed back then, it's way over-due to be changed again. What I find super odd koda2000, is that each time I put a new fuel filter in, if I drove it 1 time..JUST ONCE, under a quarter tank, not on E, just barely under, if I did that, the fuel pump went out and I'd have to get a new one. Does that seem weird ? I don't know ANYONE who has had to replace their fuel pump cuz they did that.
 



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